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Found 4 results

  1. Hi Guys! So my first post and I'm asking for help regarding the clutch master cylinder. The rod (with the hoop on) does not have an adjustment on it, I think someone hacked it somehow, and a complete RHD master cylinder from Jaymic will cost around 350gbp without shipping to South Africa! The problem with a new master cylinder from Jaymic is that apparently BMW are supplying RHD master cylinders with LHD push rods and David (from Jaymic) suggested I use the existing push rod in the new cylinder. You can see the problem I have since the existing push rod is a hack and won't work. Does anyone know if there is another 'push rod' from another model or make of car that would work as a replacement? Or whether I could get the push rod from somewhere else? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Roark 1968 1600
  2. Hello guys. Did someone swapped in a e21 master cylinder on a E10? Need some advice here. I did swap a 79' E21 brake master cyliinder on my '74 1602. I´m having trouble when riding the car. Pedal brakes start to get stiff after a while... I have read somewhere there is a difference in MC rod sizes ? Any adivice would be appreciated... Thank you!
  3. Hello guys. Did someone swapped in a e21 master cylinder on a E10? Need some advice here. I did swap a 79' E21 brake master cyliinder on my '74 1602. I´m having trouble when riding the car. Pedal brakes start to get stiff after a while... I have read somewhere itheres is a difference in MC rod sizes ? Any adivice would be appreciated... Thank you!
  4. Finally got back to it with the 2002. Life is not allowing for frequent garage time, so dialing in expectations with this car has been a priority for me. Right now, I'm just focusing on what I know I can get done. Long term plans remain the same, but short term accomplishments will keep me motivated on this project. Before sending the car off to fabrication I purchased the Chase Bays booster delete kit. I know there are a lot of strong opinions on this, but this is the direction I'm going. For anyone else interested in running something similar, bare in mind it requires some modification. As shown above, the input rod into the master cylinder interferes with the pedal arm. It has to be cut back fairly significantly to clear. I ended up cutting off a little more than actually indicated by the paint marker line. But gives you a rough idea of the modification necessary. Likewise the supplied hardware to mount the booster delete was too long, so that was trimmed. I was finally able to mock up the new setup for the first time. Something that other's who have done this stressed is you have to have the bias adjustment valve to make this work properly. Chase Bays advertises that it mounts to the master cylinder well, but in the 2002 chassis it places it in a very awkward spot to actually fit hard lines. So I'll be figuring out a way to mount it to the fender sheet metal. But finally gives you an idea of how that will look. Next step, pull everything out of the engine bay.


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