Meyle Guibo's Rubbish?

[Sharktrainer]

On my 5th now in 1 year, breaking the last one a week ago. Installed to the letter each time, but have a high output turbo setup and running a 4 speed manual transmission with 8 hole guibo. 

 

Am I using an inferior guibo?

 

 

[jgerock]

I only recommend febi/Bilstein flex disks. Others I have tried are junk.

[Sharktrainer]

Hmm, over in the Mercedes universe where I'm usually in, the Febi are usually avoided. Meyle and Lemforder brands coveted for the vintage models I possess.

 

Do you know of anyone running a custom solid aluminum guibo with good results? 

[Sharktrainer]

Less than 1000 miles pushing 300-400hp depending on boost.

 

Edited February 12, 2018 by Sharktrainer

[Simeon]

With that amount of power you might need to get used to replacing them!

 

someone here has definitely done the aluminium guibo replacement but I would expect that it won’t be great from a NVH perspective. 

[Sharktrainer]

Do they still make 8 hole guibos with that string or whatever it is embedded inside rubber? Whatever brand that is, I'm down to buy.

 

These Meyle dont have it, just rubber.

[Sharktrainer]

Not concerned with noise, vibration or harshness, is being built for autocross and 1/4 mile plus weekend warrior. Deaf after an hour in this thing.

 

Edited February 12, 2018 by Sharktrainer

[Tommy]

2 hours ago, Sharktrainer said:

Hmm, over in the Mercedes universe where I'm usually in, the Febi are usually avoided. Meyle and Lemforder brands coveted for the vintage models I possess.

 

Do you know of anyone running a custom solid aluminum guibo with good results? 

Going to solid requires modding main shaft. I have solid alu guibo in my racecar but right after that there is a third u-joint added.

I have seen some company make alu guibo with some sort of urethane inserts but haven't heard any feedback if they work or not....Writing aluminium guibo to google actually gives plenty of results.

[solo 2]

I thought I've seen someone making a urethane guibo, can't find it though.

[kbmb02]

We only use OEM giubos on the race cars (having watched a customer brake two aftermarket guibos in one afternoon at the track). Admittedly, we have substantially less power than you do.

 

I have no experience with solid units; one could surmise, however, they would add stress to other drivetrain components.

 

Have you considered a 6 bolt set-up? -KB

 

 

 

[Doug Riparetti]

Why don't you address the misalignment issue 1st, that's what is causing your failure. An use the factory BMW Guibo, not the cheap aftermarket ones.

Edited February 13, 2018 by Doug Riparetti

[avoirdupois]

10 hours ago, kbmb02 said:

Have you considered a 6 bolt set-up? -KB

 

 

The larger 6-bolt version was used with E10 automatic transmissions, 6 cylinder models (E9 and E3), later Bmws and other marques.  Not only was it larger and more capable of handling significantly more torque, it came in several flavors, including a reinforced version.  Of course, misalignment contributes to a short life span, as does severe duty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 13, 2018 by avoirdupois

[kbmb02]

15 hours ago, avoirdupois said:

 

The larger 6-bolt version was used with E10 automatic transmissions, 6 cylinder models (E9 and E3), later Bmws and other marques.  Not only was it larger and more capable of handling significantly more torque, it came in several flavors, including a reinforced version.  Of course, misalignment contributes to a short life span, as does severe duty.

 

 

 

It would be worth checking to see if the 'larger / automatic' 6 bolt version would clear the housing of a typical manual 4 speed or 5 speed (the 'regular' 6 bolt version is quite close). -KB

[bluedevils]

My experience with recent OE/BMW rubber parts: they are the same as Meyle just reboxed in white boxes with fancy bmw labels, and double the price. If your guibo is screwing up all the time, it is not the guibo but something else in the drive shaft link, as many other fellows pointed out above. 

[jimk]

For those that live in the camp that accepts anything except a straight line alignment of the engine/trans shaft to first section of the driveshaft, consider this.  Between the bolting on the guibo, the rubber does a push/pull flex with every turn of the driveshaft and with that push/pull the bolt attached to the transmission is not parallel to the bolt attached to the driveshaft.  So there is all sorts of funny motion.

So for every mile, the flexing occurs the diff ratio more times than does the tire.  In 4th direct, that's about 3000 times per minute give or take.

The rubber section in the guibo is a lot more than the tire and heat up from the flexing.  If the tires get warm, what about the guibo?Doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure that it wont last too long..