engine and drivetrain Engine removal with or without the transmission

[jjt]

Hello Everyone,

 

I have a 1973 BMW 2002 that just had the head rebuilt.  I think the added compression from the new valves and machined head was too much for the old rings. Now she is blowing smoke at idle and I removed the oil fill cap to confirm that there is a fair bit of air coming out of that opening when she is idling. I figure now it is time to do the rings. 

 

Since I just took the head off not that long ago, all those steps are fresh in my mind.

 

My question is, is there any problem or concerns with this engine removal strategy:

1. Remove the Rad

2. Remove the head.

3. Remove the hood.

4. Pull the block with the transmission in place?

5. New rings and and bearings and then reverse the steps above in a logical order.

 

Thanks for any help, guidance and feedback.  

 

 

 

 

 

[2002Targa]

You're going to get lots of different answers on this one.  6 in one, half dozen in the other.  Personally, I do both at once (leaving the head on) remove the dizzy tho.  I just think it's easier to mate the tranny with the engine when it's out.  Don't get me wrong, it's not hard at all to just pull the block straight up.

Then the other school of thought where you support the car, remove all the supporting hardware for the car/tranny/struts/subframe/steering and jack the car up and round the front subframe/eng/tranny and pull the entire drivetrain out from underneath the car.  I personally haven't done this one, but have seen lots of posts of it over the years and think I might go that route next time I have my motor out.

 

TK

[joysterm]

leave the head on,  disconnect the all the linkage and  the plumbing, pull the rad, pull the distributor( more room) and drop drive shaft and the tansmission....It will be easier to pull the block without it.

Edited October 6, 2015 by joysterm

[jjt]

drop drive shaft and the tansmission....It will be easier to pull the block without it.

 

 

Just so I understand, disconnect the drive shaft, reverse connection and gears, then remove the tranny by lowering it out? After that is done, pull the engine?

[jjt]

drop drive shaft and the tansmission....It will be easier to pull the block without it.

 

Just so I understand, pull the engine up and out, but lower the transmission out?

Edited October 6, 2015 by jjt

[joysterm]

Undo the flange on the drive shaft  from the trans output shaft, this will allow you to pull the trans out after you have diconnected the support bearing bracket,  speedo, hydraulic clutch lines, etc. You will also need to pull the inspection/cover plate from that covers the lower frt portion of the flywheel. I would use a trans jack if you have one or just simply muscule it out if you feel comfortable in doing so.

 

From the interior, you will need to free up the boot  and shift knob from the tray that sits in your consel. It will allow the complete shifter to drop freely.

 

As mentioned in your thread you can keep the trans intact if you wish, I just found it a lil tougher to get it out as a unit because of the angle you need..... If you use  a leveler with your hoist that would be a big help too.

 

Hope I have not made the desesion a tougher one.....

[jjt]

Thanks for the clarification.  

 

Since all I need to do is the rings, I figure keeping the tranny (clutch is good) in place would be easier, and just yank the engine.

 

Then I started to think (that could be the problem) since I was going to remove the head anyway to take the block to a machine shop to get honed... I figure do all that while the engine is in in the car to lighten the load once I am ready to pull it. Plus that would free up room in the engine bay for more flexibility when removing.  Then keep it light when attaching it back to the tranny and add all the other gear once the block is in place.

 

Does that make sense or am I missing something?

[Zorac]

Thanks for the clarification.  

 

Since all I need to do is the rings, I figure keeping the tranny (clutch is good) in place would be easier, and just yank the engine.

 

Then I started to think (that could be the problem) since I was going to remove the head anyway to take the block to a machine shop to get honed... I figure do all that while the engine is in in the car to lighten the load once I am ready to pull it. Plus that would free up room in the engine bay for more flexibility when removing.  Then keep it light when attaching it back to the tranny and add all the other gear once the block is in place.

 

Does that make sense or am I missing something?

 

once you have the tranny/engine out of the car, its easy to take apart and put back together.  good opportunity to address leaks if you have any.  i found i had to pull the shift platform off (distributor too as others have suggested) to get the trans/engine out together.

[joysterm]

If you are planning to get the bottom end done, I would pull everything at once and replace it the same way. You will find putting the  engine back together on a bench or stand  is much easier than continually bending over a fender.

 

The weight is not really the issue, it is merely the angle needed to get the frt end of the block high enough to get the tranny cleared. Raise and block the frt end of the car a foot or so off the ground,  chalk rear wheels..... bolt your  chain at the frt and rear of the block, set your hook so the frt of the engine comes up first and maintain a fairly good angle to allow the oil pan and lower case to clear the frt. bulk head, once that clears slowly lower the car to allow you to clear the rest of the block and trans.

 

Best of luck with what ever you decide.

Edited October 7, 2015 by joysterm

[ray_]

You could always drop the subframe...

 

 

Cheers,

[jjt]

I removed the head and the dizzy and pulled the engine. I am lazy and wanted to keep the tranny and sub frame in place. I was able to install it solo as well.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk