electrical and ignition Emissions / coil wiring questions on 1976

[LateApex]

Let me start out by saying I have searched and bookmarked multiple posts on this subject.  I'm trying to delete the emissions wiring and generally, make sure everything is wired correctly on the 1976 2002 I recently bought.  My wiring does not match any configuration I have seen in the searched threads.  There are splices and it is difficult to identify wire colors in many cases.

 

I'm also a bit confused by the blue/black/red coil issue. My coil is black with a red top and has part # 0 221 118 335 but there is no resistor block. 

 

Here is what I have:

One ganged bundle in a blue sleeve goes to the coil.  It includes: A black w/red wire to coil POS, a wire with clear insulation to coil POS and a black to coil NEG.

A separate wire runs from coil NEG to the distributor and it is spliced to the black wire that runs in a 2-wire bundle with the oil pressure sensor lead (red/black).

 

My questions:

Do I have the "red" coil?

Is the clear wire to the coil POS a resistor wire and the main power to the coil?

What is the second black w/red wire on coil POS, the wire to the starter solenoid?  If so, do I need that?

Does anyone know where the two non-distributor coil NEG wires go?  I assume one is tach lead, but which one and what is the other?

 

TIA

 

Edited September 17, 2015 by LateApex

[Mike87]

That wire with clear insulation is a resistor wire. On the '76 there was no resistor block, it was a resistor wire. You probably have the stock original coil which was black. It is very similar to the red coil (some coil experts will probably chime in with differences).

[Mark92131]

This may be helpful.

 

ww.bmw2002faq.com/topic/106721-coil-wiring-problem/

 

Mark92131

[Stevenc22]

The clear wire is the main power wire and is a resistance wire (replacing a resistance block)

 

If you have all your emissions wiring then there will be wires going to power the vacuum solenoids.

[LateApex]

Thanks.  Two quick follow-ups.

 

Is the black wire that is bundled with the oil pressure sensor signal wire the tach signal wire?

Do I need to run the wire from the starter solenoid to POS on my black coil?  I live in Florida so starting should be easy, do I need the "12v during cranking" boost to my coil?

[Stevenc22]

Im in Texas so i dont have a problem starting either.

 

I put in a blue coil, removed the resistor wiring and the boost. and have the minimal number of wires.

[AustrianVespaGuy]

Is the black wire that is bundled with the oil pressure sensor signal wire the tach signal wire?

Yes, and you can verify this by unplugging it, and making sure that the tach goes dead, but I'm basically 100% sure that's it.

 

Do I need to run the wire from the starter solenoid to POS on my black coil?I live in Florida so starting should be easy, do I need the "12v during cranking" boost to my coil?

Probably not, but I think this depends more on the health of your battery than anything else.  I've always like the blue coil setup with the simplest wiring myself, particularly because if you run into electrical problems on the road somewhere you can jumper straight from the battery to the coil and be SURE that's not your problem without risk of frying anything.  But you can read the full debate on the subject here and decide for yourself:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/_/technical-articles/electrical-and-ignition/ignition-coil-myths-busted-r52

[LateApex]

Yes, and you can verify this by unplugging it, and making sure that the tach goes dead, but I'm basically 100% sure that's it.

Thanks.  The engine is torn down at the moment so I can't try that, but I can put a meter on it.

 

As far as the coil goes, I have a performance rebuild in my future so I think I will wait on changing the coil until I've sorted out the specifics on that build.  I'll just use the resistor wire for now.

Edited September 18, 2015 by LateApex