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New, Strange, 2Bbl Manifold.


GreenSwede

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So, I found and bought a manifold (a HEATED one, yeah!), to fit with the soon to be here Weber 38.

 

But it´s strange, so I thought I´d share. Its marked C/T (where the / actually is a flash..), which obviously stands for Conversion & Tuning Centre - England. Or as it says on mine - Fngland.

 

Seems to fit, but the best casting is not top notch so I will go over the ports to match them a bit better (quite a bit smaller holes in the manifold than in the new stock gaskets I´ve got.) Haven´t removed the old, not heated, manifold year, so I´ll see..

 

And! It seems I´ll have to ruin the safe all-metric-system of my taiga. This manifold came with to studs, which where 5/16 UNC in the manifold, while the top end was 5/16 UNF. Bummer. I guess I´ll see if I find UNC/UNC studs..

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post-40090-0-02148300-1380923310_thumb.j

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Ola Gustafson
Sweden
-------------------
1975 Taiga Euro 2002 3685483 - Weber 38/38 DGMS - Pertronix Ignitor - H&R Cup Kit - TEP headers and Simons 2" sport exhaust - 3.91 LSD.

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I was thinking about that, but I´m not sure the Weber will accommodate 10mm bolts, which would be the next step. And the carb isn´t even here yet, and I´d to start drilling in a new carb for that kind of reason.

I was also considering fabricating a stud out of a piece of round steel, one end 5/16 UNC and the other M8x1.25. Or maybe use M10 bolts as material, to get the material right.

 

A bit off topic I believe I once read that cut threads are stronger than rolled ones, right?

 

If I keep it the non metric way, I´m quite sure I´ll be losing one nut one fine day and 5/16 UNF nuts isn´t that easy to come by in Sweden..

Ola Gustafson
Sweden
-------------------
1975 Taiga Euro 2002 3685483 - Weber 38/38 DGMS - Pertronix Ignitor - H&R Cup Kit - TEP headers and Simons 2" sport exhaust - 3.91 LSD.

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I wouldn't worry about strength; believe me you don't want to be putting that much torque on a carb stud anyway. any welder could fill those holes up in a few minutes time, then just re-tap with the correct size and run in some stainless threaded rod. Or you could have a machinist thread you some studs that adapt to metric, but that will probably cost way more then getting it welded. 

 

Or if you are trying to avoid paying for a welder, m10 to m8 adapter studs are very common as they are used to repair most exhaust studs... 

 

http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=18135

 

Drill and tap for m10, and screw these babies in there and you're done. Just double check the length is enough for the phenolic spacer, gaskets, and the base of the carb. 

1974 Grey European Market BMW 2002 

1976 Yellow BMW 2002 "GOLDENROD" SOLD

1972 Yellow Austin Mini 1000

A bunch of Bikes...

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You mentioned that the intake ports on the manifold are smaller than those on the head--betcha it's meant for a 1600 head (like one marked 118), which does have smaller intake ports than the 121 or E12 heads used on the 2002

 

Interesting find.  The only aftermarket 2 barrel manifold we see in the US is made by Cannon...

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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You mentioned that the intake ports on the manifold are smaller than those on the head--betcha it's meant for a 1600 head (like one marked 118), which does have smaller intake ports than the 121 or E12 heads used on the 2002. 

 

Interesting find.  The only aftermarket 2 barrel manifold we see in the US is made by Cannon...

 

mike

 

Maybe, I don´t know the actual difference in size regarding 1600/2002. And I´m not sure how much smaller they are, they are more.. not the same shape as the gaskets I´ve got ready. And I can´t remember how exact the gaskets fitted the head. I´ll see once the old manifold comes off. Which is soon.

I wouldn't worry about strength; believe me you don't want to be putting that much torque on a carb stud anyway. any welder could fill those holes up in a few minutes time, then just re-tap with the correct size and run in some stainless threaded rod. Or you could have a machinist thread you some studs that adapt to metric, but that will probably cost way more then getting it welded. 

 

Or if you are trying to avoid paying for a welder, m10 to m8 adapter studs are very common as they are used to repair most exhaust studs... 

 

http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=18135

 

Drill and tap for m10, and screw these babies in there and you're done. Just double check the length is enough for the phenolic spacer, gaskets, and the base of the carb. 

 

Googled but didn´t find M8/M10 studs in Sweden. Will have a look at a 5/16 UNC bolt. Could cut off the head and thread the bare end M8.

Ola Gustafson
Sweden
-------------------
1975 Taiga Euro 2002 3685483 - Weber 38/38 DGMS - Pertronix Ignitor - H&R Cup Kit - TEP headers and Simons 2" sport exhaust - 3.91 LSD.

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Drill out the holes and use M8 helicoils (threaded inserts) and M8 studs. 

Winner!  Or a Timesert or whatever the Swedish equivalent.  Loctite everything together, never have to look at it again.

 

Ola, if the ports to the head are round, it's for a 1600 or earlier 1800.  If they're squared off a bit, that's the 2 liter shape.

 

hth

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Drill out the holes and use M8 helicoils (threaded inserts) and M8 studs.

 

Maybe. I just don´t like drilling things if don´t really have to. I think I´ll try making a M8/5/16 UNF stud out of a 5/16 bolt..

 

Hi I couldn't trouble you to take a picture of the ports with the gasket on it to see what

Difference there is. Would save me pulling the inlet side. Thanks

Rob.

 

Sure you can. Maybe later today.

 

Winner!  Or a Timesert or whatever the Swedish equivalent.  Loctite everything together, never have to look at it again.

 

Ola, if the ports to the head are round, it's for a 1600 or earlier 1800.  If they're squared off a bit, that's the 2 liter shape.

 

hth

 

t

 

Ok! Did not know those were round. Well, these are squareish, just not well made.

Ola Gustafson
Sweden
-------------------
1975 Taiga Euro 2002 3685483 - Weber 38/38 DGMS - Pertronix Ignitor - H&R Cup Kit - TEP headers and Simons 2" sport exhaust - 3.91 LSD.

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I think I´ll try making a M8/5/16 UNF stud out of a 5/16 bolt..

Awww, here you go- get the bolts, then turn them down a bit, and cut M8 threads on the unthreaded part of the shank.

 

Now you have adapter studs!

 

Yes, rolled threads are stronger than cut threads, but for this application, it won't matter....

 

(I'd bet you a buck someone- US Ford, Chevy, even Nissan or Volvo- makes one.  For when they were still making SAE- threaded

motors, but putting them into metric cars with metric accessories.  They all did it- Chebby did it for years with their 'compact' cars)

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Hi I couldn't trouble you to take a picture of the ports with the gasket on it to see what

Difference there is. Would save me pulling the inlet side. Thanks

Rob.

 

%&%€. I grinded the ports to fit the gaskets tonight, and forgot to take a picture before I did. Sorry.

 

But, it was mostly that the shape and fitment was irregular. One one port I had to take off about 3mm at the bottom, on another as much on one side and the top, one one of them a corner was cutting in about 5mm, and then some or a few mm´s here and there. I don´t know if it would have been a noticeable problem, haven´t got that kind of knowledge. But it would have been a reversed bottle neck, mostly. I guess the other way around with narrower ports in the head than in the manifold would be worse. And maybe edges would cause turbulence, I don´t know.

 

A &€//€ again, my M8 thread cutter (don´t know the english word) cut unevenly and.. badly. First I thought my 5/16 bolts were to tough, so I tried a piece of round metal and got the same thing. Now thinking that I´ll just go with UNC/UNF studs for now, to get a test run before winter.

But, I did try the 5/16 thread cutter (my father drives a chevy, so he had one) on the same piece of metal, so I could try cutting off a M8 bolt and cut threads on the unthreaded part of the shank (thanks Toby, just learned that piece of english).

Ola Gustafson
Sweden
-------------------
1975 Taiga Euro 2002 3685483 - Weber 38/38 DGMS - Pertronix Ignitor - H&R Cup Kit - TEP headers and Simons 2" sport exhaust - 3.91 LSD.

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