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jrhone

Cant get car in gear!

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It's been happening for a few weeks where it would be hard to go in gear for a few shifts and then would slide in like butter and be fine. It felt like the clutch wasn't fully engaged. The pedal was too the floor. Had the clutch bled and no change. Fluid level dropped a little but not low. Topped it off and it seemed ok. Today it wouldn't go into gear at all. Had to stop the car to get it into gear. Then start it in gear. Shifting was 50/50. Half the time it would go in with force. The other half it would grind gets and not go in. I was only a few blocks from home and nursed it there. Once in the garage. The car still moves when clutch pedal is down fully. My thoughts are clutch slave or master? Any other ideas? Also how difficult is that fix. It's a 4 speed and I was hoping to not have to spend much until I did the 5 speed conversion.

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If your talking about the 1st gear put it in 2nd first then in 1st, I had that problem and that what the fellows on the board told me and it's no longer a problem.

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Had the exact same thing happen to me a few months back. Most likely a leak in either the clutch master or slave cylinder. It's most likely one or the other, but it is a good idea just to go ahead and replace both of them.

Installing the parts isn't difficult, about 2 to 3 hours or work, but bleeding them properly is where you may want to go to a professional with a power bleeder.

Blunt Tech has the parts and can get them to you relatively quick and cheap.

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Guest Anonymous

If you can pump the clutch pedal several times and then hold it down to improve the shifting, there is air in the line.

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pumping does nothing at all. I tried that and had it bled a number of times at the shop and nothing helped. Now it wont go into gear at all.

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Guest Anonymous

sounds like it's time for new master and slave cylinders.

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Had similar problem with my E28 once. Clutch sometimes worked sometimes not. Turned out to be the spring in the master cyl broken in 3 pieces not making the piston go back enough. Took it apart and put in a used spring from an 02 mastercyl, worked for years after that :)

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As said, either master or slave.

step on the clutch very slowly; a leaking slave or master will let you put the clutch to the floor without actually engaging.

I had the master fail on my Mini... before it went out completely, I would be able to get it to work halfway by using the clutch very quickly, which worked for about a week. I had to wait another week until I could fix it (too busy with other things), and in that time I got so good at driving without the clutch (the trick was to not stop... very easy in Malta since there is rarely traffic) that I barely used it from then on.

Rev matching is a fantastic skill to have... If you can shift without a working clutch, then you can shift extremely smoothly.

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Amen to this ^. Did the same thing with my spitfire when the slave finally died. After a week or so of no clutch, it shifted awfully smooth when I had the clutch back....

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Had it towed to the shop. First time since I have had her she has been towed. I'll have it back in a few days...now to fix that oil leak...URGHHH.

20130211-172155.jpg

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You may have saved some cash if you:

Got under the car and look to confirm and find mechanical linkages being amiss, or loose.

If all goodntight then move on to hydraulics. Unfortunately I did not see that you physically confirmed the mechanical/hydraulic parts condition before having it towed.

If you did the labor yourself you would have saved enough $ to still do the five speed conversion.

Good luck keep us posted!!

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jrhone, don't feel so bad; just be happy you have an exact reason for getting it towed.

I waited 3 hours to get my car flat-bedded (while in the freezing cold in Chinatown, Manhattan during rush-hour) because it was making the most horrific metallic squealing noise after a quick 0-60 run. The worst part is that when I started it back up at the shop the next morning, there was absolutely no noise and I drove it home without any issue whatsoever. I'm pretty sure it is a pilot bearing. It sounded bad enough that I suspected the head didn't get oil and the cam was seizing, but an inspection found everything in order.

If you have an oil leak, go ahead and drop the subframe and replace all the seals while it's in the shop. I just got done with doing all of my timing cover, oil pan, and head gaskets and it's an absolute joy to have a nice clean motor.

Oh, and if it hasn't been done, replace the throwout and pilot bearing, clutch, slave cylinder (if thats what's leaking) and line, trans oil, trans seals, guibo, and shifter linkage while its all out. Trust me. Otherwise you will have to get it done 2 weeks later like me. >,>

Those things will absolutely transform the car for the better.

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You may have saved some cash if you:

Got under the car and look to confirm and find mechanical linkages being amiss, or loose.

If all goodntight then move on to hydraulics. Unfortunately I did not see that you physically confirmed the mechanical/hydraulic parts condition before having it towed.

If you did the labor yourself you would have saved enough $ to still do the five speed conversion.

Good luck keep us posted!!

Didn't get under the car. That's why I posted here for advice!!! Arghh. Talked to the shop. Clutch master was leaking like crazy. So that was probably it.

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