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Front seat removal


trumanwoll

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My new seat pads have arrived.

To remove the front seats I believe one needs to remove the front track 10mm bolts with the seat fully back, push the seat forward and remove the rear ones. I am not 100% clear what people mean about the bolts holding the seat to the track, or at least I don't see anything else to remove. I can see that the adjustment lever has to be held up for the track to clear.

I plan to remove the center console, no big deal. Do I have to remove the stearing wheel as well? Or will the seat be free and removable with the wheel in place and some manuvering?

I will have a pro re-fit the pads. I don't trust him to re-fit the console and get everything connected, so I can do that at his shop, or at least enough to get it home (get the 4 way switch re connected so I can drive it).

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  • 6 years later...

Picking up on this old thread, I am reinstalling my drivers seat after restuffing the seat bottom.

I find that the forward bolt (10mm) that secures the inner track to the floor will no longer tighten. In other words the bolt free floats once passed through the rail. As a result the seat rocks because its not secured at both ends of the two tracks.

I am assuming the threaded element into which this bolt had been secured is no longer present.

What am I missing? I have not been able to find the now missing part in the parts catalogue so I have no idea where the old one has gone, what it looks like  or where I might obtain a replacement.

Thanks in advance for assistance.

1973 Ruby Red 2002 tii "Celeste"

1976 Fjord 2002 "Hazel"

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There should be a captive nut that the bolt tightens into. This is contained in a spring steel clip that goes over the rail. I think it is item 17 in the diagram. No info given by Realoem in the table.  Have a good look under the seat for it. 

 

I am pretty sure that you can just use a plain nut from below.  It is just a bit more awkward as you need to hold it and stop it turning. 

 

7BA8EA4B-B995-4C05-AD08-DE17680C86C3.thumb.jpeg.0735a08f1a41ba00c49ec64cd9368b18.jpeg

 

 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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1 hour ago, healeyman said:

Picking up on this old thread, I am reinstalling my drivers seat after restuffing the seat bottom.

I find that the forward bolt (10mm) that secures the inner track to the floor will no longer tighten. In other words the bolt free floats once passed through the rail. As a result the seat rocks because its not secured at both ends of the two tracks.

I am assuming the threaded element into which this bolt had been secured is no longer present.

What am I missing? I have not been able to find the now missing part in the parts catalogue so I have no idea where the old one has gone, what it looks like  or where I might obtain a replacement.

Thanks in advance for assistance.

 

It seems unlikely the nut would have just disappeared when you removed the seat, especially if you didn't have difficulty removing the bolt. You didn't use power tools or something did you? My guess is that the nut is still there but the track isn't correctly aligned with it. What if you remove the rear bolt and adjust the track forward a bit?

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Those clip on nuts can slide around a bit, so you may just need to move that one back into position.  (borrowed photo from the ad linked above)

20190311_183702.jpg

They can also fail and allow the nut to spin, or come out altogether.

 

I picked up some replacements at Tacoma Screw.  Not nyloc, but they've worked fine.

   

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Thanks for your responses. I have done a temporary fix using a similar specimen from my old Austin Healey spares. I poked through the carpet and scoped the area but incredibly no sign of the little guy in either direction. Its a one piece carpet and I didn’t want to start slicing and dicing . I didn’t use power tools and yet I know the track bolt was secure before I removed the seat. And yes lining those holes up is a challenge. Done for now and a friend has just come up with a replacement from his 02 spares.
Thanks again.


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1973 Ruby Red 2002 tii "Celeste"

1976 Fjord 2002 "Hazel"

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