Caliber broke off while driving tonight

[allbim]

I'm sure the bolts you used were not supplied by Wilwood.

1: You are using low strength, grade 8.8 bolts when you should be using a grade 12.9 or at least a 10.9.

2: You should be using a shoulder-bolt. The threads should not be contacting the hole.

3: There is also the possibility that the bolts may not have been properly torqued.

It wouldn’t hurt to safety-wire them.

[Guest Anonymous]

You're running 15" wheels correct? Those arent the standard E30 weaves which are 14" and dont clear this caliper setup are they?

He's got a point.

[Dylanhat]

They are the 14" for sure. The kit I used was the Ireland Engineering kit wasn't really thinking at the time what strength the bolts were but now I know. Could it be possible that something got chucked into the wheel that then got stuck between the caliber and rin which then tore into the rim? Forgot to add around a half mile before it all happened I felt something bounce up and down underneath my car. Thanks for all the insight

[nbristow01]

They are the 14" for sure. The kit I used was the Ireland Engineering kit wasn't really thinking at the time what strength the bolts were but now I know. Could it be possible that something got chucked into the wheel that then got stuck between the caliber and rin which then tore into the rim? Forgot to add around a half mile before it all happened I felt something bounce up and down underneath my car. Thanks for all the insight

Thats actually what I was thinking may have happened. Lots of crap on the road. A few years back my wife called to tell me her car was making a funny noise and she had pulled into a gas station. I drove out to help her. When I get there I see a 6 foot piece of rebar under the car. The end of it had punctured a hole in the rocker panel and the rest was being drug by the car.

It just seems to me if you were driving and not braking then something else (FOD) may have caused this

But please listen to what the others have said reference the bolt strength. Lots of smart people on this board

[tim385]

Are they the bolts that were supplied in the IE kit ? As the post above this said

"you were not braking at the time ?"

I dont really think that sort of thing should occur, if a bolt fell out or one was loose I recon you would hear some sort of caliper drag noise , was the top bolt missing altogether?

[Dylanhat]

Yes they were the ones supplied, didn't think about the quality or strength of them at the time but that is going to be changed on both sides. I did not brake at all the lack of spinning and locking up of the front left wheel brought me to a stop. The top bolt must have fallen off recently because bleed my brakes recently. I don't think the caliber did the damage to the rim because if it did they would have been destroyed a lot more where the only damage is one of the nipples which dug into the rim and left a nice etching. Better bolts shall be used when re applied on both sides.

[TobyB]

Hah. This happens often on E30 racecars (now, by 'often' I mean once or twice....)

Yeah, one bolt backed out, the caliper rotated, then punched a hole in the back of the rim.

When this happened at SRP at 125mph, the car was wadded into a cage- sized ball.

On the street, probably not such a big deal.

The shoulders on the bolts don't matter. The hardness DOES, because if

the bolts are too soft to torque to (effing tight) then they'll loosen, and

then you know what happens.

Bummer.

Use harder bolts, tighten them more.

t

[M3M3]

Hah. This happens often on E30 racecars (now, by 'often' I mean once or twice....)

Yeah, one bolt backed out, the caliper rotated, then punched a hole in the back of the rim.

When this happened at SRP at 125mph, the car was wadded into a cage- sized ball.

On the street, probably not such a big deal.

The shoulders on the bolts don't matter. The hardness DOES, because if

the bolts are too soft to torque to (effing tight) then they'll loosen, and

then you know what happens.

Bummer.

Use harder bolts, tighten them more.

t

yes, yes it does.

e30 race car...heard odd noise from left front, came into paddock. noise became hideous when i tried to back into paddock spot. the upper caliper bolt was gone. going forward, caliper would just rub on wheel, going backward caliper flipped out and locked against the wheel. yikes.

this was on a car that gets "nut and bolt" checks very regularly.

[roadhog0]

They are the 14" for sure. The kit I used was the Ireland Engineering kit wasn't really thinking at the time what strength the bolts were but now I know. Could it be possible that something got chucked into the wheel that then got stuck between the caliber and rin which then tore into the rim? Forgot to add around a half mile before it all happened I felt something bounce up and down underneath my car. Thanks for all the insight

That would explain it right there. Something got stuck between the wheel and the caliper and one finally gave in. The weakest parts were the aluminum wheel and the bolts. 8.8 aint bad, 10.9 would be much nicer though. Find the dimensions you need and call up Tacoma screw and get yourself some new bolts in 10.9 (and a new bleeder nipple). Best of luck!

[ray_]

eek. What's the spec'd torque for caliper bolts?

GL,

[PMWsilever02]

YOUR LUCKY TO BE ALIVE !

major installation fuck-up

calipers and mounts just dont fall off cars

i see bolt thread marking in one hole and not the other

lets see photo of the other side from all angles

so we can see alignment of parts........

I agree, as a mechanic, this is our worst nightmare! Glad you are ok.

[TobyB]

Something got stuck between the wheel and the caliper and one finally gave in

No, it didn't. The 'leading' caliper bolt came out, and the caliper wedged

itself into the rim.

I'd bet.

Look at the shape of the hole in the rim and the edge of the caliper

and bracket.

If that bracket was aluminum, it's also possible it's too soft-

and the head of the bolt sank into it, relieving it of proper torque,

and letting it loosen. It doesn't take much at all.

Or it simply wasn't tight enough. Or the hole wasn't exactly square

to the mating surfaces. Or the bolt was made in an inferior manner.

Or...

yadda yadda. Haven't had a Volvo caliper fall off... yet.

t

[Dylanhat]

Something got stuck between the wheel and the caliper and one finally gave in

No, it didn't. The 'leading' caliper bolt came out, and the caliper wedged

itself into the rim.

I'd bet.

Look at the shape of the hole in the rim and the edge of the caliper

and bracket.

If that bracket was aluminum, it's also possible it's too soft-

and the head of the bolt sank into it, relieving it of proper torque,

and letting it loosen. It doesn't take much at all.

Or it simply wasn't tight enough. Or the hole wasn't exactly square

to the mating surfaces. Or the bolt was made in an inferior manner.

Or...

yadda yadda. Haven't had a Volvo caliper fall off... yet.

t

Whatever caused it sucks. Have to pick up a new strut tower because the bolt that snapped and will not budge, drilled it out and spend hours on it today. Its been chipped down that if tryed to drill it out would ruin the threads on the strut. If anyone from Seattle or abroad has on and are willing to sell it I am looking for one and soon. Also need a new basketweave. I think it was that the bolt was bad quality and the chain reaction of what happened did it in.

[andrey]

This might be a good time to just put the stock ATE calipers back on and not mess with this shit. Be safe out there...

[Chamonix72]

This might be a good time to just put the stock ATE calipers back on and not mess with this shit. Be safe out there...

He can't go to stock, unless he uses 320 calipers. Wilwoods are single line.