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stripped threads in upper timing cover...


jrhone

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So what do I do...take it somewhere or is it an easy self repair. My leak is a combo of seeping and stripped threads on the top most bolt on the passenger side...advice?

1976 BMW 2002 Fjord Blue Ireland Stage II • Bilstein Sports • Ireland Headers • Weber 38 • 292 Cam • 9.5:1 Pistons • 123Tune Bluetooth 15" BBS

2018 BMW M550i X-Drive

1964 Volvo Amazon Wagon
http://www.project2002.com

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So what you have is stripped threads in the head, right? Not a bolt broken off in the hole. You can re-tap the hole to the next higher size bolt, or do a helicoil or Timesert to bring it back to the original bolt size. Either can be done without removing the head. I have not used either thread insert method myself, my understanding is that the Timesert is the better way to go. If you drill and tap you will also have to drill a larger bolt hole in the upper timing cover, not a particularly elegant solution. Perhaps others will suggest a better fix.

--Fred

--Fred

'74tii (Colorado) track car

'69ti (Black/Red/Yellow) rolling resto track car

'73tii (Fjord....RIP)

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So what you have is stripped threads in the head, right? Not a bolt broken off in the hole. You can re-tap the hole to the next higher size bolt, or do a helicoil or Timesert to bring it back to the original bolt size. Either can be done without removing the head. I have not used either thread insert method myself, my understanding is that the Timesert is the better way to go. If you drill and tap you will also have to drill a larger bolt hole in the upper timing cover, not a particularly elegant solution. Perhaps others will suggest a better fix.

--Fred

I have done exactly that repair, used a helicoil. Easy with the head still installed and with so little torque on the bolt, a helicoil will do just fine.

Earl

74 02Lux

15 M235i

72 Volvo 1800ES

People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

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Getting the hole drilled square to the block is 93% of the fix.

t

Toby is dead on, the hardest part will be drilling the stripped out hole to the proper size for the helicoil insert while keeping it square to the part. I would suggest a guide block for the drill bit to keep it square.

Todd

"Common sense isn't common"

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+1 helicoil.

on the other hand: Is there access to get a drill in there ?? You gonna be removing it in the next 20 years ??

if not, "redneck heresy" and use a little dab of JB Weld, it is not a load-bearing bolted connection. When you do need to remove it, doesn't take but a slight turn of the wrench to loosen and remove.

best of all, nobody will know the difference by looking at it .....

Cheers,

Carl

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Perform the helicoil repair,and I would say do all of them while you're in there.

If one is stripped ,the chances are that the others are compromised.

Why hack it when you can do it correctly.

Just my opinon.

Mark.

1970 2002 Restoration Project

2002 330XI

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+1 helicoil.

on the other hand: Is there access to get a drill in there ?? You gonna be removing it in the next 20 years ??

if not, "redneck heresy" and use a little dab of JB Weld, it is not a load-bearing bolted connection. When you do need to remove it, doesn't take but a slight turn of the wrench to loosen and remove.

best of all, nobody will know the difference by looking at it .....

Cheers,

Carl

Actually when I made my repair I did not use a drill. I had a hand chuck that the drill bit locked into and then found a socket that fit on the end of the tap and did it all by hand. A bit slower, but the aluminum is soft enough that there were no major issues. Keep the bit/tap lubricated for easier turning.

Earl

74 02Lux

15 M235i

72 Volvo 1800ES

People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

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