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Ireland Electric Fan Kit. Reviews?


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Anyone install the Ireland electric fan kit? I did 3 months ago and the fan does not seem to be able to keep the car cool while at a stop.
Once I get moving the car cools back down to about the 4 o'clock position on the temp gauge.

I have new hoses, new water pump, new belt, new temp sensor for the temp gauge, and a new 3 core radiator. Car is a little rich at idle and the timing is 8 degrees at 1000 rpm idle. The ireland fan kit has its thermostat installed on the bottom hose out of the radiator (I know this has been hashed out here a few times) and YES the fan blows air through the radiator from front to back. And YES I have confirmed it does kick on when it should. My only other variable is the the water thermostat for the coolant itself- I have a new one on the way.

Just curious what others experience is with the fan kit. I am wondering if the fan just doesn't move enough air. I went to the Ireland site and it appears the kit ships with their 12 inch fan which moves 1250 cfm at 6.7 amp draw. I see they have a 14 inch fan available which moves 2000 cfm at 11 amp draw...

74 tii
"I know just enough to be dangerous"

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I have one. Haven't put more than 50 miles on it yet though in that setup. My car ran a bit hotter without the electric fan. I am using Megajolt to turn the fan on and off at my desired temp and from previous logs the temp holds pretty much constant. I'm probably going to make a fan shroud as well to help out. What radiator do you have?

1988 Bmw E30 M50 Turbo

1975 Bmw 2002

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call back AFTER you install a NEW thermostat

(should have replaced that originally before

spending money on electric fan)

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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Radiator got burped with the cap off, heat on full blast, and car jacked up. Actually heard it burp- was kind of funny!

I got forced down the electric fan route because I bought the car without a stock fan. In fact all it had was an old electric fan attached without any wiring to turn it on. But I will report back once the thermostat is changed.

74 tii
"I know just enough to be dangerous"

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Well put new thermostat in after I tested it. I bleed the system by running the car at idle, radiator cap off, heat on full, and on a steep hill nose up. Massaged the lower hose a few times after it was hot and then put the cap on and went for a drive. It is still getting hot when not moving. While moving the temp gauge stay at about the 4 o'clock position. When I come to a stop it rises up a little over half and then the fan kicks on. With the fan running it settles at about the 2 o'clock position.

I'm wondering if the fan is coming on too late- but even when it does it is not able to bring the temp back down it just stops it from rising....Ideas?

I am going to check timing...

74 tii
"I know just enough to be dangerous"

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That's where my car sits.

That could a bit highish, it sort of depends on your temp sensor, your gauge, and what not. I have megasquirt so mine reads out quite accurately.

How long did you burp it for?

I find that it takes about 15 to 20 minutes and a steep incline to get it to really fart properly.

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The ireland fan kit has its thermostat installed on the bottom hose out of the radiator

Call Ireland Eng.

Put the switch up top.

Have you checked to see if the fan isn't flowing backwards? The fan rotation is reversible (push or pull) based on a simple mix-up of the wires. Fan moves gobs of air, that isn't the issue.

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Fan switch on the radiator top hose would cause the fan to run constantly and defeat the purpose of the switch. I cant help but thinking the airflow is insufficient because the car runs so much cooler when moving...I am racking my brain for ideas--

Maybe the engine itself is generating more heat than normal-

a)timing? it is set at 8 degrees at a 1000 rpm idle

b)could hot plugs do it? I run plugs in the 7 heat range

c)engine friction? has only about 500 miles on fresh oil

d)engine too lean?

Inability of the coolant to move through system-

a)thermostat? its new and tested

b)waterpump? its new...maybe the belt is slipping at idle?

c)blockages or deposits? when changing the pump the passages I could see were totally clear and extremely clean

d)headgasket problem? very trace oil in coolant, no white smoke, compression is even across

Inability of the new high density radiator to cool the coolant at idle-

a)fin pattern on radiator too tight and restrictive for air?

b)fan not moving adequate air?

c)fan is blowing air wrong way? confirmed blowing front to back

d)fan not coming on or coming on late? it comes on just over half on the temp gauge

Any other ideas?

I am going to double check timing.. The dizzy appears to be older but the timing mark is rock solid when shooting it. I might try and see if the springs are getting worn. If the springs are overly worn though I would imagine the timing would just advance too early. I understand that it is overly retarded timing that causes the engine to run hot.

Check to see if the belt is slipping at idle.

Check the mixture at idle.

74 tii
"I know just enough to be dangerous"

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A couple of things:

1. I don't think your car is all that hot at idle. I run about that hot at idle and I live in a much cooler climate. As soon as I start moving, the temp falls like it should. I have the stock gauge as well as an aftermarket temp gauge. Even at idle on a warm day, I never gets above 210 degrees. I don't have the Ireland fan (I have a Spal), but it keeps the car from getting so hot that the motor cooks.

2. I have my temperature probe for the fan switch in the top of the radiator and my fan doesn't run all the time. It switches on and off perfectly.

So in my humble and decidedly not professional opinion, I really don't think you have any problems. It's difficult to ask us here what passes for "normal" since there are so many variables with these cars. But I would say that your experience is not atypical.

-David

1972 2002 - 2577652 Follow the fun

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