Another M2 swap thread

[eveofrevolution]

Ok gang, I'm finally getting this project going.

The patient is a 1971 tii, salvage title, and missing original engine. (Tii motor still there and is now for sale) The car already has a zender wide body and staggered BBS RS's (I bought it like that) so I'm not ruining a clean tii (I can feel the purist advice already;). The car was my daily driver until a blown head gasket due to some fuel delivery issues (got lean under power) wiped out compression in cyl. 1&2. After looking at a rebuild plus a new k-fisch, injectors, line, etc.... I decided to do what would make any gear head happy: buy a BIG MOTOR.

I have a 1989 s14 with about 100k on it and good compression/leakdown, but it has been sitting in my garage for over a year.

I have a 320i 5 speed in the car already.

First milestone is get the new motor in and drive the car, paying attention to any safety items that need work. The ultimate goal of the car is a turbocharged beast that is still street-legal in CA. One of those sunny weekend day cars that may see about as much time at the track as it does at the beach.

M2 swap manual arrived over the weekend...I can already tell that it was a worthwhile purchase.

I'll put up a few pics soon.

Machs Gut!

[M3M3]

welcome to the "madness"!

love that simple sounding first goal..."just get the engine in and drive it". LOL! that was my first goal too....

[ray_]

Reinforce the subframe/motor mount support before you stick the motor in.

Oh, you need a 2.5 and 4.10 also.

;-)

Cheers,

Ray

[eveofrevolution]

Hmm...I didn't see that bit about the 2.5 and 4.10 in the manual. Perhaps I should send Dave an update request;)

On the serious tip, those m10 mounts sure aren't too sturdy. One of mine is cracked already, I think. I plan to put a cage in the car at some point, but I have been looking at boxing everything I can and adding gussets all around before then. You know a few dimpled panels here or there couldn't hurt. I am going to use the hybrid pan from VAC until I get a dry sump, as I wanted to avoid cutting the subframe for clearance. (welding cast aluminum that has been soaking in dirty oil for years does not always go so smoothly in my experience)

Thanks for the input.

Mach's Gut.

[RayC911]

Pics of said Zender body 02 with Staggered RSs!

[eveofrevolution]

(nt)

Here are 2 pics from when I bought the car in 2009.

[eveofrevolution]

A few more from when it was a daily driver. 205's in front and 225's in the back.

[ray_]

Nice euro bumper

You might check with ///MChris on the board, who is in Los Angeles and was examining ideas to make the car more ridgid with additional bracing. He's an engineer as well ;-)

Email me thru the board for his email address, or find his profile and email him directly.

My M2 is sitting in Seal Beach btw.

Cheers,

Ray

Hmm...I didn't see that bit about the 2.5 and 4.10 in the manual. Perhaps I should send Dave an update request;)

On the serious tip, those m10 mounts sure aren't too sturdy. One of mine is cracked already, I think. I plan to put a cage in the car at some point, but I have been looking at boxing everything I can and adding gussets all around before then. You know a few dimpled panels here or there couldn't hurt. I am going to use the hybrid pan from VAC until I get a dry sump, as I wanted to avoid cutting the subframe for clearance. (welding cast aluminum that has been soaking in dirty oil for years does not always go so smoothly in my experience)

Thanks for the input.

Mach's Gut.

[eveofrevolution]

I wonder if he has a 2002 chassis model I could run some FEA on.

Then we're talkin'!

Will do, thanks for the tip.

[ray_]

Whatcha think of this?

http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=162693

Cheers,

Ray

[eveofrevolution]

Appears very effective (I didn't read the SAE paper), but I'd hate to do that to a chassis that hasn't been fully prepped otherwise. Seems like an appropriate step before paint, but after priming.

I can only imagine how that stuff would hold water (I'm assuming it's closed cell, urethane based) once it starts to degrade from fatigue. We know what foam bits do to the metal on a 2002 from that goofy foam rubber gasket in the gas tank...

I would think EPS or EPP would be more suitable. EPP (expanded polypropylene) is what is behind many bumpers these days. It looks like styrofoam/EPS, but hit it with a baseball bat and you will see a difference immediately. Blowing EPP isn't cheap, though.

[Gbare02tii]

My 69 with Zenders and Epsilons..Hope to do a M20 swap soon...Tii engine in it now..well worked over too:)

[eveofrevolution]

Way cool! It's exciting to see the performance potential of the Tii explored, finicky as it may be.

Are you running a stock cone in your kfish?

Update:

Old motor is out. I'm planning on parting it out when I have the car back on the road. Oil/dirt removal has begun. I really wish I could do this at a car wash with a pressure washer and oil/water separator. I am doing my best to not use water and to capture all runoff. What a chore!

Hopefully I'll get the trans out this weekend and off to Aardvark for the sensor mods.

Does anyone know if the Tii brake booster will clear the s14 stock intake manifold? I have heard it does, but never seen proof.

Mach's Gut.

[Guest Anonymous]

I believe that mine is a tii booster, rotated, or with the bracket rotated.

Stock plenum was there initially.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v355/raykoke/?action=view&current=IMG_0007-1.jpg

Cheers,

Ray

[M3M3]

tii booster WILL NOT work with stock s14 intake. it clears the plenum, but blocks the hole for the intake elbow to the AFM. you must use a non-tii booster with stock s14 intake.

look at this picture and imagine the booster being several inches longer...right into the intake elbow...

see how much past the "middle" of the TB's the tii booster goes?

if you want to use the tii booster, you gotta go to a CF intake...

BTDT.