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Transmission Removal


asingewald

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This is my first post here. I just purchased a rust-free, straight '74 non-tii (my first '02). I drove it 300 miles home trouble free...and now it's on jack-stands in my garage as I'm in the process of dropping the transmission to replace the clutch (it was slipping when I bought the car). I've hit a snag in this process and am hoping for some advice. I've read all (or most) of the existing threads on this topic, and they've been very helpful, but do not answer all of my questions.

Here's the situation: I have the transmission partially off the engine (about 2 to 5 inches) and sitting on a jack, but it won't come down...I can't quite tell if the input shaft is still stuck in the clutch...or if the bellhousing is just stuck between the firewall and the center steering rod. I'm shaking it up and down and left and right and it's moving around everywhere, but not coming free. For those of you who have successfully gotten the tranny down, what's the trick?

In the process of trying to get the tranny down, I (unintentionally) let the weight of the tranny push down on the input shaft...will this do any damage to the tranny?

One last question, the Haynes manual says to place a block of wood between the "engine sump and the front cross-member." Do you know what they mean by this? Is this the small space between the oil pan and the front cross-member; how could placing a block of wood there help to "temporarily support the tranny." I don't get it.

Thank you for putting up with my newbie questions. This is an amazing on-line community and I'm very thankful that it exists!

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You have to tilt up the front of the engine. Be careful you don't tilt it too far or you'll crack your distributor cap on the firewall. I usually take the cap off when I pull a transmission.

Exhaust needs to be disconnected too.

71, flat black

Beat to fit, paint to match.

Do what you love and you'll never work a day in your life.

"Some people spend a lifetime wondering if they made a difference, Marines don't have that problem" - Ronald Reagan

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Guest Anonymous

as said, remove dist cap, tilt engine down with block of wood under sump. try not to let the weight of the trans be supported by the input shaft. its a strong bearing in there and there is a bit of play but it is bad form.....what is hanging up is the bell housing against the trans tunnel usually at the top. if you can break the seal between engine and trans showing a quarter inch space you might be able to wiggle the trans into a position that avoids the hang up near the starter motor. thats all i can say or remember for that matter. sometimes thats all it is.

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Turn steering wheel either fully left or right so the center arm is at it's lowest point. Edit - Mr. Bill just hit the submit button just before me.

Did you disconnect or remove the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission?

Put the trans in gear and turn the output shaft - then try pulling it out. Don't let the weight of the trans. bear on the input shaft. Support it with a jack.

If you get frustrated, take a break then try it again.

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Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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Success - thank you all! The trick was cranking the wheel to the right and wedging some wood beneath the oil pan - then voila it came right down the way I hoped it would the first time around.

-Airlin

Congratulations! Now just remember how you felt after pulling it out to the time you have to put it back in..

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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then put it in 4th and turn the output shaft and look at the input shaft.

If you didn't bend it, it'll turn true.

If it wiggles, you bent it... and the best

course would be to find a good used one.

Or straighten yours, if you can, carefully.

I bet it's fine.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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