RMBaiada

Thank you.

Steve, Thank you. The incorrect fuse chart was from the orange Owner's Manual. I just never noticed it was wrong. Fortunately, with an ohm meter, it is easy to figure out. Michael

I am restoring my 1974 2002 (VIN - 4223665) and currently reinstalling my wiring harness. I copied the fuse box information form my workshop manual (From 73 models on) and the one from my original Owner's Manual (I purchased the car new in 1974), but they are different. After testing some of the circuits, the Workshop Manual is correct. Anyone know why the Owner's Manual would be inaccurate? The following is from the Workshop Manual The following is from my original Owner's Manual.

I am restoring my 1974 BMW 2002 (VIN - 4223665 ), that I purchased new from the dealer in Syracuse, NY in 1974, and have reinstalled the wiring harness. I am trying to test all the circuits to make sure I don't "smoke" wires when I connect the battery. Given that, I was wondering if anyone ever measured the resistance (ohms) from all 24 of the fuse box terminals (fuses removed) to ground? If so, do the numbers below look correct, or do I have a problem? My biggest concerns are the silver side (lower) of fuses 7 and 8, which show almost zero resistance. Fuse Lower, silver fuse connector resistance to ground (ohms) Higher, copper fuse connector, resistance to ground (ohms) Electrical item 1 Open Open Cigar lighter, automatic radio antenna 2 Open Open Hazard warning flasher, interior light, clock, trailer turn indicator 3 Open 104 Heated rear window 4 41 104 Heater blower, electric sliding roof 5 41 Open Wipers, windshield washer, brake lights 6 Open Open Turn indicators, horn, reversing light, radio 7 3 Open Side, rear and parking lights (left) 8 2 Open Side, rear, parking lights (right), license plate, instrument and rear fog warning and fog lite relay 9 31 Open Left low beam headlight 10 Open Open Right low beam headlight 11 Open Open High beam headlights 12 15 104 Automatic choke, fuel/coolant temp gauges, oil press lite, RPM, handbrake telltale, fuel level, choke knob, elec fuel pump Note - Fuses removed, manual fuel pump, electric choke, no sliding roof, no automatic antenna, no trailer, no fog lights Michael

Thank you. That is what I thought.

I am in the process of rebuilding my 1974 2002, and I am working on the ignition switch wiring, but the 2 pictures above don't seem to match. In the top picture, the 2 reds are between the P and the Starter, while the 2 greens are between the starter and the purple wire (R) But in the lower picture, the 2 reds are between the purple wire (R) and an unidenified black, while the starter is between the purple (R) and the greens. What am I missing? I can see the R on the back of my starter, but the P seems to be between 2 connectors, but is hard to see. Is it easy to just remove the 2 screws from the electrical block and drop it down to see better? Michael

Chris, Did you ever get an answer to your question? Also, to remove the electrical block from the ignition switch, is it as simple as removing the 2 screws? I am putting my car back together, and with the electric block in place, I can't see the numbers. Michael

I have updated my 1974 BMW 2002 air Conditioning, and was curious if there is any reason to keep the original mid 1970s AC compressor and condenser? The compressor is huge and the condenser is a tube type. Are these worth anything to anybody or are they just trash? Michael

Thank you. I was able to connect with Harry at creativesales.comments@gmail.com and ordered the door brakes.

Maybe I am missing it, but how do I contact Harry. Michael RMBMisc@Baiada.com

How do you contact Harry to purchase the door brakes? Also, what is the price?

Steve, Thank you. I have a brand new Walloth & Nesch high cooling rate radiator that I purchased from Wallothnesch, but with the straight outlet. I plan to have my local radiator shop install the side, angled hose connector. Michael

It seems that, from the article at https://bmw2002tii.nl/radiateur-bmw-2002-airconditioning/, there is a special radiator and lower hose for BMW 2002 with AC. Who knew? Below is the translation of the article (minus the pictures). I also tried cutting the radiator hose as well, but this looks like a disaster waiting to happen. I purchased the bracket for the AC compressor from David Donoghue at dave.hobiedave@gmail.com and the rest of the fittings and the 12" x 14" condenser (CN12X14) from Trisch at Cold Hose (https://coldhose.com/parallel-flow-condensers/universal-parallel-flow-10x18-condenser-1692.html). Michael xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Radiator for BMW 2002 with air conditioning September 21, 2019 Subjects: air conditioning Sigh: for air conditioning, you even have to adjust the radiator. Because my car is not running smoothly enough yet, I am replacing my Kugelfischer injection pump with a remanufactured pump. You can read this in another post. But during this operation I was forced to remove the radiator from the car. In addition, I also removed the bottom hose to make it easier to place again. And that was a good thing too… The hose was almost through. I'm so lucky to have found this in my own garage! Since the hose ran very close to the compressor, I had already cut a piece to create distance with the compressor. But it is clear that the distance was insufficient. I was wondering if I should adjust the bracket of the compressor. Until Jeffrey Kok suddenly said: I think you should have a modified radiator for air conditioning. He even found one from the AVA Quality Cooling brand with part number BW2575. I immediately rang a bell: I think my friends deliver AVA products to Airco Frans. I stopped by immediately because they are a few kilometers from my house. They made a nice price for me and the radiator was there early the next morning. On the left the radiator for air conditioning and on the right the standard radiator The tube at the bottom of the radiator for the air conditioning is on the side instead of the bottom. This makes the hose run neatly along the compressor. When the new radiator was delivered, I immediately started fitting. The radiator fits perfectly but ... the old hose (also without a piece off) did not fit a meter. Fortunately, I found a hose with BMW part number 11531250702 in the hose supply. This is for cooling a car with an automatic gearbox. I have no idea why I have this because my car with automatic gearbox has a standard hose and standard radiator. It is difficult to see but the hose runs well away from the air conditioning compressor. All's well that ends well. I hope this is really the last job I have to do for the air conditioning.

I am finally getting to finishing my 1974 2002 rebuild. I purchased the AC bracket from Hobie Dave, and that works fine. I also purchased a new high flow radiator from Wallothnesch, with a straight bottom hose fitting and, as other have found out, I am having trouble fitting the lower radiator hose that clears both the Sanden 508 AC compressor and the larger 400 mm fan. Any suggestions? I am hoping that there a specific hose that solves this problem and someone will send me the part number? I saw that someone took there radiator to a shop and added an cooper angle section to the bottom radiator pipe, but not something I want to do. Michael Baiada, 303-521-6047

I found 2 places to buy a new 2002 headliner. Schmeidmann is Genuine BMW, but goliners has some great recommendations on BMW FAQ. Also, I read that the goliner headliner has sewn seems for the headliner bows, but my original 45 year old headliner bow seems are heat sealed, which I assume the new Genuine BMW headliner has as well. Does anyone know which product is better or the difference between the two supplier's products? I was surprised to see that Genuine BMW is actually less expensive than the aftermarket brand. 1. goliners on ebay for $185, including shipping (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-71-1972-72-1973-73-1974-74-1975-75-76-BMW-2002-SOLID-ROOF-WHITE-HEADLINER/164121790378?hash=item26366bc7aa:g:E40AAOSwH4hbHIpM) 2. Schmeidmann for $158, including shipping (https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/e157238-new?product=51-44-7-480-140) Michael 303-521-6047

Gordon, Thank you. Michael

Gordon, Thank you for the info. Since my headliner board is already in place, is there a need to remove it? in other words, did you install the headliner with the board in place, or glue the headliner to the board and then install it in the car? From Clay's post, it looks like you install the headliner with the board already in place in the car, so I don't need to remove it. Of course, it is 40 degrees here in Evergreen, CO, so it will be a while before it is warm enough to install the headliner.

I am trying to remove my headliner board from my 1976 BMW 2002. I saw a previous post from 2011 about a special tool to remove the clips, both shown below. Does anyone know what this tool is called or have a part number? At $7 a pop, I would like to save the clips, and especially the headliner board. I tried squeezing the ends of the clip together and gently pulling on the clip, but no dice. Also, does the new headliner wrap around the board or attach to the window edge?

I did try the Search, but it kept showing nothing found. Additionally, whenever I am on the FAQ site, I keep getting a "script" message and my computer slows way down. I have no problems on any oher web site. Strange.

Does anyone have pictures of a Dash Cap installation (Palco Industries) that you could email to me? Also, were you pleased with the result? http://www.dashtop.com/products/dash-cover-1968-1976-bmw-2002 Having my dash refurbished is way too expensive (Just Dashes - $2,800). Michael Baiada RMBMisc@Baiada.com

I am looking for the bushing at the back of the throttle linkage that attaches to the firewall (35 41 1 103 775). I have 2 of the plates (35 41 1 103 778), but the bushings are worn. Any suggestions? I spoke to AutoWerks, Ireland, Top End Performance and some others with no luck.

The edge to edge outer diameter is 4.75".

I have a 1974 2002 single groove pulley and would like to trade for a 2 groove pulley to be able to add AC.

I am not sure that there is a pre-load on the sway bar, and I agree that there probably isn't any. That said, I was just looking for a way to make sure. I guess that I could release one sway bar link and measure the distance between the sway bar and lower control arm to make sure it is the same with the sway bar link attached.