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RMBaiada

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  1. RMBaiada
    I am disappointed in that a brand new Genuine BMW cam chain tensioner piston would bind up in the bore. This caused the piston to NOT engage the tensioner mechanism, which, with no cam chain tension, made a clacking sound and could have caused severe damage to my brand new motor. Hopefully, I caught and corrected the problem early enough. To correct the problem, I had to polish the piston extensively with a fine synthetic steel wool to get it to slide smoothly in the bore. I have primed the tensioner piston and the car started and seemed to run normally with no clacking sound coming from the front of the engine, which was the case when the cam tensioner piston was stuck in the bore. I would like to thank everyone for all of your input. Michael
  2. RMBaiada
    Has anyone ever unscrewed the end of the piston for the cam chain tensioner? Is it difficult? Is it possible. As I mentioned above, I want to find an old tensioner piston, unscrew the end with the ears and insert a long bolt. This would allow me to push the piston past the restriction near the chain end of the bore and be able to pull it back out to work any resistance out of the bore. Michael
  3. RMBaiada
    After I pulled the tensioner piston and spring, and they both look Ok. It looks like the piston is binding at the chain end of the bore for some reason. I don't want to push the piston past the restriction in case it won't come back out. I was considering finding an old tensioner piston, unscrewing the end with the ears and inserting a long bolt. This would allow me to push the piston past the restriction near the chain end of the bore and be able to pull it back out to work any resistance out of the bore. Also, I do see some slight wear marks on the shoulder of the piston. Any thoughts? Finally, while I can't hear the ball rattle, I can easily blow air into the chain side of the piston, but not the other way, so I assume the ball is working correctly. Michael
  4. RMBaiada
    After a couple of online videos showing how the tensioner works, I can now see that the piston is not extending. I can easily push the chain tensioner against the chain with a long screwdriver creating a gap between the piston and tensioner. The piston does not move forward out of the tube. Either the spring is broken or the piston is somehow jammed in the tube. I hope that it comes out easily. Michael
  5. RMBaiada
    I pulled the valve cover, and upon further inspection, the timing cam chain tensioner reservoir is full, but the chain has slack in it when stopped. With a long screw driver, I can move the chain away from the tensioner by about 1/4". I am guessing that the cam chain tensioner spring is bad or the valve is bad and it loses its prime after the engine is shut down. It is a genuine BMW part and I have contacted Schmiedman where I purchased the tensioner for a warranty replacement. This is better than a sticky valve or other potential problem. Stay Safe, Michael
  6. RMBaiada
    Thanks for all of the info. Yes, the engine builder did prime the tensioner, but after speaking with the builder, it might be that the new tensioner has a bad relief valve and it loses its prime. So after a couple of minutes, the reservoir fills up and the noise goes away. My plan is to rent a trailer again and take it to the engine builder and let him look at it. He said that if the tensioner is bad, it's not too hard a fix, especially since I replaced the mechanical fan with an electric fan in front to the condenser and radiator. Stay Safe, Michael
  7. RMBaiada
    Jeff and Toby, Thank you. Michael
  8. RMBaiada
    Timing chain is also a possibility since the noise is at the front of the engine under the valve cover. I reached out to the mechanic who rebuilt the engine to see what he says as well. Michael
  9. RMBaiada
    I just got my engine running after a complete rebuild. After a first smooth start, I started my engine a few more times over the last week, and even drove it on the local street. One problem that has cropped up is that when starting the engine when cold, there is a clacking sound near the front of the engine and the engine runs rough, all of which disappears once the engine warns up (4 to 5 minutes). Once the engine is warm, it runs great and no clacking sound. At first I thought that the roughness was the choke not set right, but now I am thinking that I have a sticky valve in the number 1 cylinder. I don’t want to damage the engine, so is it Ok to run the engine and will the sticky valve break in quickly, so that there is no clacking or roughness with a cold start? Stay safe. Michael
  10. RMBaiada
    I purchased new brake drums from Bavarian Auto for my 1974 2002, which I am rebuilding. Unfortunately, they sent me the wrong ones, and since they are now out of business I am stuck with them, and I am trying to find out on which car they fit. The part number on the invoice was 150.1703.00. I think that these fit a 1984-1985 BMW 318i. They are very close, but not 100%. The only writing on them is on the inside, which has "MAX DIA. 229.5 MM" on one side and the number 5956 on the opposite side. The inner hole is 61.85 mm and the taper inside the small hole is slightly narrower, which is slightly different than the correct drums, so the wrong drums moved around on the hub. The pattern for the 4 bolts seems the same. Anybody know which car to which these drums belong? Is it the 318i? I ordered new Brembo brake drums from Rock Auto and they fit perfectly. Michael Baiada 303-521-6047
  11. RMBaiada
    Scott, Although I have not installed it yet, yes, my plan is to use a cotter pin, with a washer above it, to keep the clevis pin in place. Michael
  12. RMBaiada
    I found that the following 5 mm x 30 mm, stainless steel clevis pin from Amazon is a perfect fit for the door brake pin, with room for a washer (maybe 2). And at $6.67 for a package of 4 shipped right to my door, it is a great deal. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0816MVQQ7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Michael
  13. RMBaiada
    I am rebuilding my 1974 BMW 2002 (VIN 4223665 ), which I purchased new in 1974, and getting closer to the finish. I am now working on the roll up windows and need the following parts? 1. On the outside of the roll up window, I have the long aluminum trim piece, but need the part numbers of the 2 rubber strips (one small under the vent window and one long under the roll up window) pinched into the trim (which I assume I can replace). The came out easily. 2. I also need the he part numbers of the u shaped felt piece that slides on to the long aluminum trim piece (L & R). 3. Finally, I need the u shaped felt guide piece that slides into the track at the front edge of the roll up window. I couldn’t find the part numbers and I am hoping that these are still available. So far, I have installed the fully reconditioned drive train, electrics, all the mechanicals, 14” powder coated 320 wheels, new tires, new electric fan, AC condenser, new radiator, dashboard (with Dash Cap), headliner, the windshield/rear window and Malaga paint. The doors/hood/trunk are painted and the interior is complete, all waiting to be installed. Also, the engine is ready to start after a full rebuild and is just waiting for the engine builder to make it happen. Any help is appreciated. Michael
  14. RMBaiada
    I am rebuilding my 1974 BMW 2002 (VIN 4223665 ), which I purchased new in 1974, and getting closer to the finish. I am now working on the rear vent windows and need the following parts and part numbers. 1. On the rear wing window, I need the rubber piece (L & R) that covers the hinge (which is not really a hinge). These could be the Vent window green (51361803707 and 51361803708), but I am not sure. 2. Also, how is the rear vent window glass attached to the hinge? Is it just glued in place, or is there another part I need that holds it in place? 3. I have the finisher trim (L & R) and the new window seals already. So far, I have installed the fully reconditioned drive train, electrics, all the mechanicals, 14” powder coated 320 wheels, new tires, new electric fan, AC condenser, new radiator, dashboard (with Dash Cap), headliner, the windshield/rear window and Malaga paint. The doors/hood/trunk are painted and the interior is complete, all waiting to be installed. Also, the engine is ready to start after a full rebuild and is just waiting for the engine builder to make it happen. Any help is appreciated. Michael
  15. RMBaiada
    I am rebuilding my 1974 BMW 2002 (VIN 4223665 ), which I purchased new in 1974, and getting closer to the finish. I am now working on the door vent windows and had some questions. To replace the vent window seal, I have read that you first pull the glass from its frame and bend the frame out of the top pivot point. 1. How hard is it to pull the vent glass from its frame? Is there a trick to this? 2. When reinstalling the vent glass, is there something between the vent glass and the vent frame, and if so, what is the part number? 3. Do you glue the vent glass into the vent frame, and with what glue? So far, I have installed the fully reconditioned drive train, electrics, all the mechanicals, 14” powder coated 320 wheels, new tires, new electric fan, AC condenser, new radiator, dashboard (with Dash Cap), headliner, the windshield/rear window and Malaga paint. The doors/hood/trunk are painted and the interior is complete, all waiting to be installed. Also, the engine is ready to start after a full rebuild and is just waiting for the engine builder to make it happen. Any help is appreciated. Michael
  16. RMBaiada
    I am rebuilding my 1974 BMW 2002 (VIN 4223665 ), which I purchased new in 1974, and getting closer to the finish. I am now working on the door vent windows and had some questions. To replace the vent window seal, I have read that you first pull the glass from its frame and bend the frame out of the top pivot point. 1. How hard is it to pull the vent glass from its frame? Is there a trick to this? 2. When reinstalling the vent glass, is there something between the vent glass and the vent frame, and if so, what is the part number? 3. Do you glue the vent glass into the vent frame, and with what glue? So far, I have installed the fully reconditioned drive train, electrics, all the mechanicals, 14” powder coated 320 wheels, new tires, new electric fan, AC condenser, new radiator, dashboard (with Dash Cap), headliner, the windshield/rear window and Malaga paint. The doors/hood/trunk are painted and the interior is complete, all waiting to be installed. Also, the engine is ready to start after a full rebuild and is just waiting for the engine builder to make it happen. Any help is appreciated. Michael
  17. RMBaiada
    I have new rubber seals for my car and need help with the rear wing windows. I can't see how the rear wing window rubber seal attaches to the car. 1. Below is a picture of the left wing window seal. I assume that the 90 degree bend is for the top of the B pillar, but I can't see how it attaches. 2. I would have thought that the seal would wrap around the entire wing window opening (i.e., like the windshield), but it looks like it only covers the B pillar and along the top of the window. How does the bottom of the window seal? Any help is appreciated. Michael
  18. RMBaiada
    Where did you purchase your exterior roll up window seals? Do you have the part number? Thank you, Michael
  19. RMBaiada
    I saw this on Wheeler Dealers and thought that the BMW community could benefit. They have a new BMW 2002 wiring harness for sale, as well as other classic car electric products. https://www.autosparks.co.uk/finder Expensive, but available. Fortunately, I was able to reuse my old harness in rebuilding may 1974 2002. And while I did look for a new one, I never found a source for a 2002 wiring harness, so I thought that others may find this useful. Michael
  20. RMBaiada
    Thank you. Michael
  21. RMBaiada
    albim, I know it has been a while since your 2009 post, but I have some questions if you have time. Do you use a PWM to vary fan speed? Do you have AC? With you engine fan removed, have you had any cooling problems when OAT is in high 90s Any problems with your Flex-A-Lite fan since your 2009 post on BMWFAQ? Michael
  22. RMBaiada
    jimk, What make and model of fan do you have installed? Also, do you have AC, the engine driven fan still installed and what ECU are you using to run the fan? I want to vary my fan speed for noise and help reduce electrical load Michael
  23. RMBaiada
    For Andrey: I know it has been a while, but Spall no longer sells a PWM, so I am considering Flex-A-Lite and wondered if you used a Flex-A-Lite fan with your Flex-A-Lite PWM? If so, could you let me know the model number of the PWM and fan? Michael
  24. RMBaiada
    For Healey3000: When I spoke with Spal, they said that they no longer sell a PWM and don't recommend them for their fans. The Spal tech support person said it would wreck the fan. I am wondering if you had any problems with you Spal fan and PWM you wrote about in the Technical Articles Electrical and Ignition section? Also, do you know another PWM manufacturer that would work with a Spal fan? What I am looking for is a single PWM box that acts as the relay which I can connect to power and directly to the fan, and program. Michael
  25. RMBaiada
    Thank you. That is helpful.
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