RMBaiada

I am installing a Frigiking AC evaporator in my 1974 BMW 2002, everything else is new. The Frigiking blower housing does push up against the heater louvers for the footwell, but still leaves room for shifting, but it is tight. With the evaporator blower unit pushed all the way forward, there is about 1.375" from the back of the Frigiking trim and the bottom of the front of the shifter. I can trim the footwell heater louvers and cut out some of the fiberboard off of the transmission tunnel, which should allow me to push the evaporator unit farther forward. I am guessing that this should give me another .75" of clearance between the front Frigiking trim and the shifter. Can anyone provide pictures of a Frigiking installation with the side panels on and off. Michael

Thank you. That is a great site for grommets and body plugs. Michael

What about an alternative solution? Maybe a Mercedes or Audi part number? Paul at Maximillian offered a VW speedo grommet, but it is the wrong size (https://www.busdepot.com/111957861). The hole in the firewall is round at 22 mm (cable is 8 mm), and the VW grommet is oblong at 22 x 14 mm. Thanks, Michael

Did anyone ever find a source for the speedometer cable grommet? What is the part number? Thank you. Michael

I did find the following 2 threads about QuietCoat, but neither gave a final report. I posted my same list of questions there, but no response yet. The following on an RX 7 forum was detailed, but, again, no final report. https://www.rx7club.com/interior-exterior-audio-26/quietcoat-sound-dampening-195306/ Michael

I know that it has been a while, but could someone provide an update on the QuiteCoat installed in your cars? 1. Any issues with the QuietCoat coming loose or flaking, especially from the roof above the headliner? 2. Any residual smell? 3. Any other downside issues to using the QuiteCoat on the interior of the car? I have just ordered 2 gallons of QuietCoat for my 1974 2002 restoration, and want to get it done before the headliner and rugs are installed. I plan to coat the interior of the car (roof, floor, back, doors, and side panels). The cost was $168, delivered to my door, and the customer support from Steve at QuietRock.com was fantastic. Michael

I know that it has been a while, but could someone provide an update on the QuiteCoat installed in your cars? 1. Any issues with the QuietCoat coming loose, especially from the roof above the headliner? 2. Any residual smell? 3. Any other downside issues to using the QuiteCoat? I have just ordered 2 gallons of QuietCoat for my 1974 2002 restoration, and want to get it done before the headliner and rugs are installed. Just like williamggruff's post above (2010-04-24), I plan to coat the the interior of the car (roof, floor, back, doors, and side panels). The cost was $168, delivered to my door, and the customer support from Steve at QuietRock.com was fantastic. Michael

While I think that I am sticking with the original incandescent 194 bulbs for my 1974 2002 instrument cluster, I did receive the following information from Super Bright LED, which I have not seen in an LED thread. My questions. 1. Are the replacement 194 wedge LED lights dimmable and will they work with my original instrument panel rheostat? 2. Do the 194 LED lights run hotter or cooler than the original 194 incandescent lights? 3. Are the 194 LED lights a direct replacement fit? 4. I have also read that LED bulbs need to be installed a certain way to work. If they are installed incorrectly, will they damage anything, or do I need to just turn them around? Super Bright LEDs answers. 1. They are dimmable, however you would need to leave one of the original bulbs in the circuit to do so. Since leds have little to no resistance traditional rheostat dimmers don't recognize them. LEDs run cooler that actually barely get warm. Correct they are a direct replacement for traditional 194 bulbs. 2. You would just turn them around. However to ensure that you do not have that issue, I suggest going with the units that aren't polarity sensitive that way you can plug them in anyway with no issues (see links below). https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/194-led-bulb-cob-led-t325-miniature-wedge-base-135-lumens/6325/ https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/boat-miniature-wedge-bulbs/194-led-boat-and-rv-light-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-95-lumens/… Michael

I have installed a new AC system in my 1974, including a Sanden AC compressor/clutch and a 12" x 14" parallel flow condenser and had a few questions. 1. What gauge wire should I run to from the AC compressor/clutch to the on-off switch in the console? The lead from the AC compressor/clutch looks to be 14 gauge. 2. Where is the best place to tap off power? 3. What amp fuse is needed? 4. Should I add an inline fuse or rely on the fuse box? Michael

I am about to install my new headliner (Goliners/Headliner Mart) and had some questions on the bows. 1. When fully installed, do the bows lean forward or aft? The bow hits the roof prior to the vertical. 2. Per Clay's headliner installation post he says to install the bow zip tie retainer first. How close to the roof is the bow when the headliner is fully installed to correctly position the zip tie retainer? 3. My old bow plastic grommet had a thin metal washer for the center bow. Is this required for all of the gromets or just the center one? 4. Are all 5 bows the same length? 5. Was there any foam or other insulation on the roof above the headliner from the factory? Currently, my roof is painted metal. Thankyou, Michael

Standard Pierburg, short neck fuel pump (#13311265192) for sale. I needed the BMW OEM, long neck fuel pump for my 2002. No gaskets. Brand new, never used - $50 Michael

So obvious once you see it. Already installed and working properly. Thank you. Michael

I am rebuilding my 1974 BMW 2002 (VIN 4223665) and can't see how the parking brake sensor switch mounts. The sensor works fine as the red light in the instrument cluster works properly. I can see the little notch at the back driver's side of the metal around the parking brake and there is a small screw in the sensor bracket that looks like it attaches somewhere, but I can't see where. Plus, I don't see a tab that would depress the plunger to work the dash light.

Can I remove the actual speedometer cable from the cable housing for cleaning and lubrication? Does it just slide out, then back in? I know that the ends of the cable housing are different, but are the ends of the actual cable different? Michael

Success. With Mark's much more detailed wiring diagram and Mike's input about the hazard switch, I was able to trace the fault to the hazard switch. It seems that with the button out, the hazard lights worked fine, but with the button in, it had to be jiggled just right to connect the switched power source and allow the blinker stalk to work. What I found out was that the flasher flashes any time there is power through the flasher. If the hazard switch works, all the blinker stalk does is connect the blinkers to the power source through the flasher. What through me off was that I had 2 hazard switches with the same fault. Thank you all. Michael

The hazard flashers all work, so the bulbs, ground and wiring to each of the four corners is good.

Mark, Thank you. This helps, as I can see much more detail, and hopefully I can trace the circuit. But it will take some study and good glasses. Michael

Mark, I am using the Prospero's Garage color wiring diagram (see attached), that is supposed to go from 1973 forward. If the relay under the steering column is not for the buzzer (pictures above), any idea what it is for? Also, the plug from my turn signal switch is an 8 pole plug, with 6 slots used and 2 slots not used. BMW 2002 Color Wiring Diagram.pdf

Both fuse #6 (blinkers) and fuse #2 (hazard lights) are good, have power to them and continuity across the terminals.

Both my blinkers do not work. The hazard lights, as well as the high-low beam function on the stalk, both work fine, but not the blinkers. I am just finishing installing the wiring harness on my 1974 BMW 2002 (VIN: 4223665), and I got everything else working except the blinkers. I tried to chase the wiring from the wiring diagram, but I need a wiring diagram or a picture of the inside of the blinker switch. Is that available? My assumptions are that: 1. Since both L and R blinkers don't work, I am assuming that I missed a connector someplace, but I don't see it. 2. Since the hazard lights work, I assume that it is not a flasher, bad wiring or light bulb problem. 3. I was told that the relay under the steering column was part of the buzzer (see pics below) with 2 wires hanging loose that I can't find spots for, but I am not so sure. Why would the buzzer need a relay? Finally, it would be nice to see a much more detailed wiring diagram if that exists.

Another relay question if you have time. There is a relay under the steering column, with 2 unconnected thicker wires (12 gauge?) wires coming out of it, one black/white and one black, which don't seem to have anywhere to connect. There are also 2 other thin wires (18 gauge?) connected to this relay, one brown/black and one black which are connected into the wiring harness. Do you know what this relay is for? Is it part of the blinkers, which is the last thing that doesn't work, but the hazard lights do work. Also, do you know where the flasher unit is located, and is it the same flasher unit for the hazard lights?

Thank you. That did the trick. Michael

I have A 1974 BMW 2002 US model (VIN - 4223665), which I purchased new, that I am rebuilding. I have the wring harness back in my car, but I am having trouble with the high beams. When I pull the blinker stalk, I hear and can feel the 2 rear relays clicking on the inner front left fender, but no high beams. The low beams work fine, and the high beams light up if I put power to the silver (low) side of the fuse box, so the connection from the fuse box to both lights is good. Can someone tell me what each of the 3 relays on the left inner fender do, front to back? Are these 3 relays the same? Also, what is the replacement part number for each of these relays, again, front to back. Thank you Michael