RMBaiada

The post above mine is for a Weber 32/36 from Pegasus. I called them and they do not have a low-profile aluminum airhorn for a Weber DGAS 38/38. I will check out the one from Pierce Manifold. Michael

Anyone know where I can get a low-profile aluminum airhorn for a Weber DGAS 38/38?

Tom, What is the name of the kit to smooth the airflow into the carburetor and where can I buy one? Thank you, Michael

John, Thanks, but I gave away the stock air cleaner. Oh well. I know that I am way over thinking this, but it is the engineer in me. From what I have found on the web, I think that the following are the specs on my M10 engine and Weber 38/38 DGAS carburetor. The stock M10 engine was 1990 cm3 / 121.2 cui, which the engine CFM calculator shows that my engine requires around 180 CFM. My engine is .030 over, with a 288 degree duration and 10 mm lift cam shaft, so I am guessing that my M10 engine flows around 200 CFM. I found that the Weber 38/38 DGAS downdraft carburetor can flow up to 390 CFM, which is more than the engine needs. I have a header and 2" exhaust system with the resonator and muffler, but not sure if or how that changes anything. My conclusion is that I need a 2" high carburetor air filter that needs to flow at least 400 CFM. Does this sound accurate?

Thanks to Mike and Tom. Steve Nelson at Top End Performance also suggested the shorter Redline air cleaner, which is only 1.875" tall, versus the one I have that is 2.625" tall. Has anyone used this, and does it flow enough air with a K&N filter? Is there any other air filter that I can use that is shorter, but wider? Top End Performance - Weber Carbs and Parts. Genuine Made in Spain Webers and Weber Redline Kits. All Tuning parts and accessories. WWW.RACETEP.COM Weber Carbs and Parts. Genuine Made in Spain Webers and Weber Redline Kits. All Tuning parts and accessories. Weber carb...

I just installed a 6 mm phenolic spacer, with gaskets top and bottom, between my original intake manifold and my 38/38 Weber DGAS carburetor. I have not bolted it down yet, as I concerned about the spacing between the top of the chrome air cleaner that came with the carb and the hood. When I push down on the hood, it seems to hit the top of the air cleaner after only 1/8" or so. I could remove the 2 gaskets, but this would only give me about an extra 1/16". Is 1/8" enough spacing to not hit the hood when the engine twists on acceleration?

While I assume that running the heated water through the intake manifold is to help speed up the engine warm up process on those cold German mornings, can anyone explain the engineering behind this feature on the 2002? Does heating the intake manifold help or hurt once the engine is at normal operating temperature? Finally, does anyone know of an inline thermostat that fits into the hose that would shut off the water flow when the engine is at operating temperature?

Thank you. I removed the stock Solex and installed a 38-38 Webber carburetor and had the intake manifold machined to match. I also do not have a return line from the carburetor to the fuel tank. Does anyone know if the is a phenolic insulator block to mount between the Webber 38-38 and the intake manifold?

As others have reported here, the gas in my carburetor on my 1974 2002 evaporates after sitting for week or so and, I assume, the fuel line drains back below the level of the fuel in the gas tank, so the car is hard to start. I realize that an electric fuel pump would solve this, which is what I have on my 1957 MGA. But I was wondering if a 1-way valve, just prior to the mechanical fuel pump, would stop the draining of the fuel line and help reduce the time to start my car? Has anyone done this? Michael

I would like to echo BarrettN's comment. Many thanks Mike.

I used 3M Black Super Weather Adhesive 08581. I did not realize that there was more then one. Michael

I have glued my new door weather strips twice already (Black 3M and one other adhesive), and both times the glue did not stick to the rubber. I purchased the door seals from www.wallothnesch.com in Jul 2020 and believe that they are OEM. Now while there is no adhesive on the rubber and I was able to remove the first adhesive from the body, now I can't get the Black 3M adhesive off the body. Both times I cleaned the rubber really well, especially the second time with the Black 3M adhesive, but no luck. Any suggestions on: 1. which adhesive to use 2. how to prepare the rubber seal 3. how to get the Black 3 M adhesive off of the body 4.can I glue over the Black 3 M adhesive still on the body Michael

Thanks. Lesson learned.

No, I don't know how he got my email. My goal is to just make others aware. I found it interesting that he immediately had the picture I wanted during our text exchange. As I said, a lot of effort for $40. I received another email with a similar format from someone who said they wanted to buy an MGA fender that I am selling, but I ignored it.

SCAM - BEWARE of Steve Hillman (stevehillman02@gmail.com, 424-275-8654) selling BMW parts. I posted a request on the BMW FAQ Parts Wanted site for a right front bumper bellows (passenger side). I received an email, and then texted someone who said he was from Nashville, said a friend of his saw my BMW FAQ request and that he had what I needed. After texting back and forth with pictures, I paid for the bellow I needed via Zella to a Julie Tequila (Ocampojaa@gmail.com). That should have been my first clue, but I just thought that this was his wife's nickname on Zelle. He also said he had a PayPal account. He texted me 5 different pictures, and even after the payment was made, he offered to send the small metal bracket to attach the bellow to the bumper. It seems like this person went to a lot of trouble for a $40 payday. In other words, no amount is to small to steal from you. Unfortunately, I never received the bellow and have not received any response from the supposed seller's text (424-275-8654) or email. I called, texted and emailed numerous times and never received a response. Below is the email I received on Sep 1, which he also sent me via text. I received the same exact email on Sep 24 as well. Not realizing it was the same person who emailed me on Sep 1st, I answered the Sep 24th email saying I was scammed, see his response below. From: Steve Hillman [mailto:stevehillman02@gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 1, 2021 6:41 AM Subject: Right Front Bumper Bellow Hello Mate, I got your contact from someone saying you are in need of a front right bumper bellow. If so I have it here in good condition let me know if you are still interested. Thanks, Steve. From: Steve Hillman [mailto:stevehillman02@gmail.com] Sent: Friday, September 24, 2021 2:17 PM Subject: Re: Right Front Bumper Bellow Hello Michael, It's bad important messages end up unnoticed in spam sometimes. I feel sorry you had a bad experience. A lot of Scumbags everywhere these days, I've been a victim a few times too. Asking Price for the Right Front Bumper Bellow: $45 shipped. Thank you, Steve. .

Does anyone know a Steve Hillman (424-275-8654, stevehillman02@gmail.com) I posted a request on the BMW FAQ Parts Wanted site for a right front bumper bellows (passenger side). I received an email, and then texted someone who said he was from Nashville, said a friend of his saw my BMW FAQ request and that he had what I needed. After texting back and forth with pictures, I paid for the bellow via Zella to a Julie Tequila (Ocampojaa@gmail.com). He texted me 5 different pictures, and even after the payment was made, he offered to send the small metal bracket to attach the bellow to the bumper. Unfortunately, I never received the bellow and have not received any response from the seller's text or email. I called, texted and emailed numerous times and still waiting. Michael 303-521-6047

I need the right front bumper bellows (passenger side). If you have one for sale, or know where to get one, please let me know? Also, if you have it, are the imbedded fender attach bolts still in place? Michael

I need the right front bumper bellows. If you find a pair of front bellows, let me know.

Esty, It is definitely a bondo problem on the door, but one I need to solve. I could drill out the current bolt and braze in a longer one, but was hoping for a longer bracket already complete. Michael

I am also looking for a passenger side rubber extender between the bumper and front right fender for my 1974 BMW 2002. I have the driver side, but still missing the passenger side. Michael

The threaded part of the metal bracket for the door knee trim is too short. It doesn't reach through the door to allow me to attach the acorn nut. Is there a longer option? Any other suggestion, other than fabricating a new bracket? Michael