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Naz

Solex
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Everything posted by Naz

  1. Check it out. http://m.ebay.com/itm/1970-BMW-2002-2000Ti-Lux-/182710730746?hash=item2a8a687ffa%3Ag%3AvBQAAOSwDiBZKnlL&_trkparms=pageci%253Ae287b435-7e5a-11e7-9bb3-74dbd1805f9b%257Cparentrq%253Acfe487f615d0aa417117f305ffffffc5%257Ciid%253A1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Completed the front subframe assembly. I didn't plan on putting it back into the car tonight but just as I shot this pic my wife walked into the garage and asked if I needed a hand. Well just so happens I'm thinking about how the @$!$@ I'm going to get this back in. Well...she suggests using the engine hoist. I followed with a "what are you talking about?" Anyway...After we wrestled it under the car and a failed attempt at jacking the assembly into position I came up with a great idea. "Let's use the engine hoist!" we threw some thick straps that the movers left behind around the centre of the subframe and pulled it up with the hoist. Worked like a charm. I would of taken more pics but didn't think these unorthodox methods should be documented. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Never mind. I see it now. There are two seal options. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Looks like I have a getrag 232. Gearbox was replaced and it indicates that it came out of a 1600. Not sure if that's true? Realoem doesn't show a 232 on any of the models I searched. The rear seal I pulled out is a 40x55x8 but everything indicates 38X55X10 on realoem. It looks to have been changed in the past with the wrong size seal perhaps? The bearing says made in Japan so someone's been in there. Any thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Those would look nice on my 2000tilux Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. It all boils down to what you want to spend and what your goal is. Personally I would rebuild it all. If you are on a budget just Replace main crank seals, check for wear on piston walls. If it's within moderately lower than acceptable levels then Maybe throw some new rings in after you hone the walls...Better than nothing. If you go all the way and plan on doing it right then you should replace crankshaft bearings, polish crank or grind depending on wear, measure oil pump tolerance for wear. Going all the way may lead to having to boring the cylinder walls and replacing pistons, not always necessary but likely if the engine has never been rebuilt. Checking oil pump is important as you don't want that failing a month after you put it all back together. Machine surface of head and block to achieve true flat surface. If you machine surface consider a thicker head gasket as its a little more forgiving and hold up better over time. Oh...and change the pilot bearing in the crank. Just my two bits. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Paint it black and sell it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. All I got Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Well it's good to know they are available if and when mine fails. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Well there it is! Looks like it's working. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Is that castle nut tightened properly? I had a similar issue when I took my wheel off and solved it by tightening the castle nut and pinning it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I feel the round headlight are unappealing and kinda boring compared to the euro style rectangle lights that give it a more unique flavour. I've owned a couple 2002 and switched to the 2000tilux as i really enjoy the added space. I'm not sure why they are priced so much lower than the 2002 considering they are so rare in good original condition. Granted that some find the design ugly much like the 2000cs but I like the uniqueness of them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Wow what an interior. What's that centre console out of? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Is this sound a new development in your driver or the tii engine you built? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Paul, I was a little reluctant about the design of the new chain guide but I'm confident that it shouldn't pose any issues. I did however add a couple shims to the oil pump to achieve what I believed to be the perfect amount of tension on the oil chain. I spent a lot of time removing and trying a few different shim configurations before I nailed it down. I have a .03 and .01 shim combo on the original oil chain and sprocket. Of course none of my work has actually been tested yet. The engine is still on a stand. Be interested in hearing what you discover. Have you checked the timing chain tension spring and piston? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. My original was a different shape. Tension of the chain is only thing I can think of that would cause a noisy chain. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Got it. Thanks Ed! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Thanks I'll wait for you to check that old sack of nuts. Haha. I think we took this as far as it should go lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Thanks Hal, that's what I figured. Thanks for the green light. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Haha. It's funny you say that because I was just thinking about how I was going to shave a nut that I'm missing for my solexesses. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. I would like to replace the seal in the gearbox but I can't seem to find a socket that fits. I just picked up a 27mm socket thinking for sure it was the right size but nope. 29 mm was too big to fit into the hole to reach the nut. It looks like there is a notched sleeve in there that I perhaps need to remove first? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Strange. Maybe the app is glitchy. I'll do a reinstall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. I'm so impressed with myself for making this bolt for some reason. Had to cut it down to fit as I was short one. It's a NLA bolt folks. Put your orders in now I'm putting it back into production. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Here is the ever elusive early style rubber motor mount in its final resting place waiting to live out the rest of its days being hammered upon by constant engine vibration. I can see why this was later redesigned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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