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Naz

Solex
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Everything posted by Naz

  1. The one on the left is my version subframe. Long neck diff Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. The one on the left is my version subframe. Long neck diff Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Is it possibly your subframe is a later one? It doesn't make sense to me either that the flange would be installed after the diff went in at the factory. It makes all the sense in the world that it should slide in and out intact. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Never mind..a little heat and wd40 and she moved. Got the nut off. I'm guessing I have to use a 3 prong puller the rest of the way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I'm trying to pull the diff out and it appears that in order to clear the tunnel in the subframe I have to remove this flange. Is there a trick to getting this off? Is the thread of the bolt to the left or right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I just want to throw a saddle on it and take her for a ride! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. So I was doing some reading up about 5 speed options and it sounds like the only 5 speed that will fit would be the Getrag 245. I think I read something about the 240 being to big to fit in the early NK tunnel. I must admit there isn't much room down there. Having said that I attached some pics of the drive shaft. I was very surprised how light the driveshaft was when I pulled it out. Thought it would be heavy to handle. Any input on what I should be expecting to deal with re: driveshaft once I get a 5 speed in my hands would be appreciated. It doesn't seem to complicated a swap really. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Your right Hans, I just had a closer look at it and took some 1000 sandpaper to it to clean up the paint in the contact area. I'll hit later and get it done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I'll have a closer look at upon assembly. I can clean it up to make sure I get a good seal. That big clamp seems fragile. Would hate to break it. Yes, I should put a 5 speed and be done with it. I'll keep my eye out for one down the road. Going to attack some rust areas throughout the car and repaint before Engine or tranny goes back in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Well I have a new o-ring on the way for it anyway. Maybe I should use a little silicone as well? Dropped the transmission and working on the the diff now. I'm just going to redo it all. What the hell Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I'm pretty sure this isn't the original exhaust. Not seeing much reason to replace it yet but knowing me I'm sure I will by the time I get to putting it back in. Haha there is no muffler. Looks like 3 resonators on there. It looks like I have some leakage in the diff that needs to be addressed as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Luis, I don't recall how the braking was. I haven't driven the car over 20 years hahah. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Well I got everything cleaned up and ready for the new boot. Just have to find some narrow clamps. Tempted to just take the other side off and do the same job just so it matches In cleanliness. I'm stopping my self though. We will see. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Looks like fun. Nice pack of cars there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Yes Hans, it's for a single circuit. Part # 34111103245 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Surprisingly yes, I got the part number off realoem and the kit is available 70$ cdn per. I can't tell if the o ring is in the kit though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Hi all, we are talking single calliper Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. So I'm all over the place with projects on the 2000tilux. Since I have to wait for parts to arrive from Germany I split the callipers open to rebuild and repaint them. I guess my question is can the bolts be reused or do they absolutely have to be replaced? I don't mind replacing them but where the heck do I find these bolts, and is there anything special about the nuts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Thanks for the tips. I was able to get the O-ring through BMW Germany along with the overpriced clear boot Just waiting for the parts to arrive. I couldn't justify $12 for the hose clamp though. The standard clamps you find at Home Depot are a little to wide compared to the original. Perhaps an auto parts store will have narrow ones? Yes, I certainly wouldn't want to lose one of those bearings. I decided to reuse the original bolts as there is nothing wrong with them and replace the lock nuts. I will look for your article Chris. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I have a set of 4 new CV Boots with clamps for a 2002. Bought them thinking they would work on my 2000tilux but not even close. 30$ for all 4 boots with clamps.I'm in Vancouver Canada so pick up is best as shipping to USA is expensive and probably not worth it for USA customers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. How critical is it to use 12k bolts vs 8.8k bolts on the cv joint ? I want to change the bolts but the only ones I can find are 8.8k Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Never mind...I got it apart. Easy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Am I supposed to bang this apart somehow to get the new boot on? Any suggestions? It was a real treat getting those 50 year old bolts off the half shaft btw. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. I confirmed using BMW part number that those are in fact 2002 fenders. I can't believe they continue to call them 1500/2000 fenders. Was too good to be true I guess. Darn! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Yeah Tom, Ive raised that question with the company and they responded by saying that they are fenders for the 2000 from 66-75 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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