Driv3r

Although, you don't have to use plywood or plastic sheet covering. Technology has evolved. Check Simeon's blog: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/entry/461-door-card-rehab/

Thanks, this is not mine, someone selling on Facebook so I'm trying to find out what it worth.

Could anyone give me any details about this nice steering wheel from the 60s called Tornado?

With bushings in tact?

I have the plastic elbow and my car has sunroof. This plug was in my spare box. Should I remove the elbows and use plugs?

Every door latch I've seen for sale doesn't come with bushings. I saw one on google and made me wonder. There is no part number on part catalog. Does anyone know where to get these?

Mine doesn't have the bushing. Where do I get a pair from?

Do the latch strikers come with bushing? Here:

Nice Turkish delight with some purple candy! Great car, welcome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I was wondering what that plug was for! Can anyone show where this is mounted on a diagram or picture? jgerock's photos not showing for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yes but making it look like new is the easiest part. The challenge is to remove the lens without melting the corners or cracking it. Once we master that, the price of a pair would drop by more than half.

This was sent to me via Facebook. My only guess is that these were retrofitted to USA style frame by removing the tint from Italian style?

Apparently they were available back in 90s. A German dude on Facebook is now looking to buy a second hand one.

Nothing but Liqui Moli goes into any of my engines. For the Tii I was recommended SAE 20W-50 HD by local BMW Racing club. https://products.liqui-moly.com/classic-motor-oil-sae-20w-50-hd-3.html

How much do they go for? Need estimated price.

Well, minimum $1000 for a small piece. No thanks. Only Jay Leno could get excited. Reminds me of the price of first IBM. I'll wait until they start selling these million dollar machines in grocery stores.

Thanks Peter. I've actually tried to melt the old grease but only a small part of it turned into oil and most dried out chunks got harder and started to burn. Not sure if it had anything to do with high viscosity of the dried jelly grease or not but others might have different experience. Cheers

Sorry to bump this up again. I've finished the heater box restoration but have a minor question to make sure I don't have to see a sight of any heater box ever again! So the heater in recent cars let you control the fresh air either by a switch or flap regardless of fan or water valve being open or closed. How do we stop outside air (fresh air) to enter the cabin in summer, specially when we don't want hot water to pass through the valve? Let's say we're driving in a tunnel filled with carbon monoxide or a construction zone with dust everywhere and its summer! The polluted air will get in even if you close both cabin vent flaps. My guess is either we didn't have pollution or dirty air back in 70s or this was resolved when they introduced cabin filters.

I'll try melting the old grease and report back. It looks and feel like hardened jelly, it might burn rather than melt.

I've used the whole afternoon trying to restore my vent window mechanism. As you all know, the unit is sealed and generally replaced with an alternative working mechanism when it stops working or become harder and harder to turn. I had 6 pairs of these in my spare part stash so decided to pickup the worst and try to refurbish it. This method worked for me and made the mechanism movement feel like new. You're welcome to follow this process if you decide to refurbish your window vent mechanism. Please ensure you clean the unit from any dust, oil or rubbish before this overhaul. Here it goes: 1) So the unit is sealed. The main housing is made of aluminum so you cant just pry it trying to remove the sealed cap, it will brake the housing (trust me, I wasted 2 units already!). Grab a small flat head screwdriver and a small hammer. Gently tap the aluminum edge around the sealed cap to widen the edge. Be gentle or it will crack. 2) Try distributing the pressure evenly. Once the edge is wide enough, use a screwdriver to pup the cap off. (Note where I use the screwdriver, its the strongest point) 3) Once the cap is off, use a small screwdriver or a nail and patiently pick all dried out grease. I used a brake cleaner (spray can) to get rid of old stubborn grease. It wont leave any residue since it will all evaporate almost immediately. You don't have to do this. You could just clean by picking what you see. 4) I used a heavy duty, water resistant, long lasting general purpose grease with extreme temperature rating (non petroleum). The vent mechanism is very similar to steering box mechanism. Apply moderate amount of grease and push it in between the gears then move gears back and forth using the knob. 5) There is a small grease pan under the horizontal gear shaft. Repeat step 4 until you see grease coming out of the top of horizontal gear shaft. This means the bottom grease pan is full. (Try not to over fill). The vertical gear shaft has a small play (moves up and down by 1mm). Using your small flat head screwdriver, try getting some grease under the vertical gear shaft by pushing the other end of the shaft from outside of the housing. This will help smoothing the movement. 6) The vertical gear shaft is supported by a small tension bar from outside where the vent window frame is inserted. Remove the holding screw and tension bar, use small amount of grease on the inside of the tension bar and reinstall (do not over tighten the screw). 7) Now put the cap back on and gently tap the edges inward with a hammer. You're Done! Now, when I finished doing this, I noticed a small amount of grease under the vent mechanism housing where the horizontal shaft is. Looked closely and noticed there is a small hole possibly made for inserting grease occasionally or in major service intervals. But you need to clean out the dead grease before using this grease hole. Most currently available used vent mechanisms have dried out grease and in need of complete clean out anyway and you wont need another overhaul anytime soon! I hope this process is useful to any member. Cheers View full article