jdamm

hi guys, this is my situation, i have a getrag 235/5 close ratio that is the factory installed box in my jan 73 2002tii, ive just had it pulled apart to be checked out while i had it out of the car(being restored), it needs new bearings(imput,output and layshaft) 2nd/ 3rd synchro's and shifter sleeves, output flange and speedo drive. im looking at a minimum of $2k to fix it, so is it worth it considering it status? its great fun to drive and i know its a "unicorn" gear box(very hard to find) but is there anything else historically significant about it? would you fix it or want one in your 02? if you have ever driven one in any 02 and can compare it to the other bmw gboxes and/or know alot about them please chime in, if you have never driven one or dont know what im talking about then leave it to the pro's please no offence! ps i have read up on these gboxes but i keep finding the same info(different pages but same text) when i search it up.

ok thanks paul, i will look for a replacement, appreciated! actually where can i get this dizy from? if you know off the top of you head?

jgerock- ok i wasnt sure about it as some of my shop manuals refer to it having vac advance or tuning for vac advance and the thing having the LUMINETION sys added to the big question mark, i wasnt sure which was the culprate... but the stamping is (0231129037 jfr4) i hadnt got that far on the dizy subject yet because im waiting for the motor to be finished to start setting it up properly to the check list and once its done i can confirm the parts for you as i dont have alot of info/sizes/figures of what was/is in it. it has a e21 head,m3 oil pump,LS pistons,modded sump with baffles and MM 292 cam, thats all i can tell you at present. CGerardT- ok thank you regarding the WUR, i cant afford to replace that at that price right now so ill have to put it on my list....try use what i have... COOP- yea i downloaded your article and ive read it along side the shop manuals i have, trying to work out the kinks, my linkages were all the wrong lengths too! it will be a great help when i put it back together thats for sure!

thanks guys for the great info, ive been schooling up on everything tii lately (well kfish,linkages, throttle timing and ignition timing mainly) and its a VERY big topic and has sooo many across topic links as you'd expect from german engineering, this resto has just become quite complex(in the engine bay atleast). i was hoping i could try something like i suggested to simplify the tuning set up some what and to try and avoid the well known check list tii's need to function well, because i have a few tampered items in my engine bay(luminetion elec. ignition but no vac advance on the dizy, metric mechanics 292 cam and the KF pump. once again thanks for the help! once its all put back together and i can reset everything i will ask for help if i get stuck. PS: CgeraldT- by "cores" do you mean entire WUR or just the internal actuator?

hi guys, ive been searching the forum and there is alot of info on the KF pump but i haven't found anything to answer my questions, so a bit of back story: early 73 2002tii with a 72' pump. engine was rebuilt about 10k miles ago and had oil pressure issues(prob sorted) by previous owner, now i have recently started a light resto(as they all start out), pulled the head off to start checking out the motor,to cut a long story short my clys are glazed and you can still see the hone marks,it did run very rich. so i downloaded a manual form BMW NA about how to set throttle,warm up regulator,throttle timing etc and read it a few times, started looking at the warm up regulator(auto choke thing on the back of the pump), mine is not extending 10mm as it should and i haven't been able to find a replacement. so my first question is- can i remove the warm up regulator and lock the position of the mixture arm on the pump or retrofit a standard choke pull to the cabin? secondly- someone has adjusted the mixture screw and i want it back to factory so can i re position this with an exaust analyzer/o2 sensor and air fuel mix gauge? based on fixing the position of the mixture arm 1st? nobody here in new zealand seems to be capable/knows how to servicing a KF pump but there a few who used to but the gear they used and supply/demand has diminished and the gear has been sold off.... i would like to avoid rebuilding it as i would have to send it to the US or germany but im running out of options and probably cash if it has to be rebuilt ahahhaa any help would be great!

to add my 2 cents, i have a may 72' dated valve cover on my jan 73' built RHD tii.

i was thinking along these lines but closing off the back side and just using the front with a modified K&N,with the soul purpose of pushing that awesome intake noise out the front(like an e30 m3) so does it sound epic?or work better?

sweet as, cheers for the help boys

cheers tobyb and mlytle for the info and honesty ahaha, i had a gut feeling someone would say that, now have either of you had any change in offset issues changing to the e21 hub/brake set up?

hi guys/girls i recently read the vented rotor article and wanted to know if anyone here has done the e12 early 5 series or e24 6 series vented rotors conversion to their tii struts? i did a small amount of research and from what i can see i would end up with 5stud hubs once finished because the rotor/hub connection is 5 bolt so id have to use the e12/e24 hub plate aswell and not be able to use my 4bolt tii hub plate that i have, to add another bit of info i purchased a set of caliper spacers recently so i could use my existing dual circuit tii calipers and run the vented rotor that you would find on a 2002 turbo but finding reasonable priced turbo rotors has been quite hard and wanted to see if there are any other options around, going to the e21 hub/rotor conversion is a last resort at this stage as i want something that uses most of what i have because i would end up replacing hubs/master cyl./calipers and any dual circuit to single circuit gear i dont know of. any info would be great. julian 73 tii roundie

not fully sure, there made by konig,they were purchased from Ireland engineering about 3-4yrs ago, sold as "bbs rx copys" 15x7 et25, very snug fit, had to roll outer lips but they dont rub on the struts or anything, was 1 inch lower 2 weeks prior to photo but new h&r were installed.

heres my 73 roundie tii, hoping to have it on the road by xmas

i just tried a combo nobody has written about(probably for a good reason), turbo vented rotors to tii hubs, they fit but the overall depth of the rotor "hat" is 3-4mm to deep so the rotor hits the caliper mounts, so its wont work without machining something.... now i have to decide whether i get turbo hubs or e21 rotors and hubs or stay stock tii...... decisions decisions

1973 2002tii christchurch New Zealand

15's all the way!!!!

I did this set up only to find out that i had to shorten my struts and my springs were loose when fully extended which is illegal down here in New Zealand,but ride quality was perfect for what i wanted(stiff enough for spirited driving and not a back breaker if you hit a bump)

Well if we are talking about a mint tii then it would have to be the full option with sport package(lsd,5spd CR box etc) and with the metal panel hand wound sunroof, late 72/early 73 roundie, pretty much what i already have just in concours quality and not a little ruff like mine ahahaha but then id be too afraid to drive it,wouldnt want to chip the paint!

just watch the billy hd and your springs... i just fitted HDs and H&R sport springs and apparently(not cofirmed yet as im researching) HD struts are long stoke(travel) shocks and not for lowered vehicles causing strut to bottom out alot and in turn damaging your new shocks,sports are short stroke and are better suited to lowered cars so im gonna get to the bottom of it because i wanted a more comfortable ride but a lower ride hight... i will let you know if i find out any fact in this statement. goodluck

ok i understand what your saying c.d.iesel about the sport strut and sport spring but the main choice for the HD strut was the comfort level i would happily run sports if our roads were not rubbish,i didnt realize about the bottoming out aspect and to be honest i wondered that when fitting them but couldnt get them to fit due to a bigger diameter strut and the strut already had a rubber ring on it and wasnt sure what it was for just assumed it was a bump stop,that being said when all these threads refer to billy HD and H&R sport combo being a nice combo then someone had steered alot of people wrong. hans as to your post the h&r were labelled front and rear and based on that was how i installed them,however i did compare them with my old springs for hight and diameter of steel and they were the same hight in the rear and comparable in thickness but the front hrs were shorter and slightly thicker than older springs but that doesnt mean much unless you know spring rate etc and i dont. now the main worry is am i going to wreck my new struts in this set up because i chose this setup based on the many threads and positive comment on this set up......thanks for the replies

thanks for the replies,i will try answer all of you,yes ive got the right springs up front as i thought i mite have done that, yea they jack up the car and grab the spring to see if it can bounce free from the perch(side effect of the "boy racer" scene and the cutting of springs by our rice racer rivals taking too much out so they tightend up the laws.) yea i need to replace the rubbers below and above the spring so i was hopefull that would help a little, the spring on top to keep it in place is already taken care of because the springs come with "dead coils" already. and as for the ride hight i need to just cut or compress the springs like normal? as for this wiring technique to hold spring to perches can you give me a bit more info as that seams like the only real option at the moment. thanks again for the feed back

ok that would make sence to me but have read here many times about guys using this combo for a comfortable ride but still sporty enough to handle better. the roads here are buggered from earthquakes so dont want too harder setup....

ive just finished fitting new bilstein HD shocks and h&r sport springs F/R to my 73tii,although im sure there could be a few factors here im after some ideas because i have not struck this before. fitted billy HD strut insert into tii strut,sat spring in perch and fitted top perch with washers on top then camber plate/strut mount. all done up there is about 20mm play for the spring to move around. how do i fix this as it wont pass a "warrant of fitness" as is.could i remove billy strut insert and get it shortend 20mm to fix this?also on top of this the ride hight it about 20mm higher than previous set up so would shortening the strut also fix the ride hight? any help or advice would be appreciated. kind regards julian

yea ive got them,you have to extend the shock fully get a bit of wire or a bike wheel spoke and push the bump rubber down from the top till you can pull it off the main shaft(there shud be a split in the rubber) there will or should be a nylon washer in there too so take that out too and compress it right down then when you spin it you should feel the pins lock in and you can adjust from there.hope this helps......goood luck!

love it!!!! drool,nice work mate

i did the same thing when upgrading my wheels and the only problem i came across was my sterring coupler was flexing alot(RHD with headers very close to it) so i bort a urthane one from ireland eng. but the headers make that turn into jello in no time so looking at options to fix that,but on a LHD car it would make your steering even better,mine was awsum till it got hot aha