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182kartracer

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About 182kartracer

  • Birthday 10/06/1995

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  1. Currently building a racecar and figured id put out feelers in this group for parts before dropping the big bucks on brand new stuff from IE. Engine: Forged pistons (Lowish Compression) HD Rockers Stainless Valves (Stock Diameter) HD Valve Springs Aluminum Crank Pulley Aluminum Flywheel 215mm solid plate Clutch Modern style intake (Not twisty spagetti) Suspension: Adjustable Coilovers Sway Bars Front Big Brake Kit 15" 15x8 Wheels Other items: Fuel Cell (Prefer 15 Gallon) Related turbo/efi application parts Shoot me a message if you think you have something that might help me. Ill keep the list updated as i source things. Thanks for your help!
  2. Could someone clarify why the 76' diff flanges can be swapped into an E21 Diff?
  3. I think i have one that i was about to scrap. Ill try to get a pic for you. Its painted blue.
  4. If you call the new Stahl(ACP headers) and ask for Greg Stump he should be able to get you what you want. Greg is a great guy. Met him at the going out of business sale and have stayed friends since. He's helping me make a turbo manifold for my car.
  5. In this tread I will detail how to remove the sunroof structure in our cars in a way that causes very minimal damage to the chassis of the car. This issue arose while building my 2002 into a race car. I wanted to maximize the vertical height of the cage and the sunroof channel was blocking 2" i could use to keep my noggin safe. I wanted to remove the structure but i did not want to hack up the entire roof trying to get it out. Below i will detail how i methodically persuaded sunroof to leave my car. To start i am going to assume that we are at the point where the actual sunroof panel, track, and slider mechanism have all been removed. Below is a picture of the sunroof structure already removed. What i want to point out are the 9 points highlighted in red boxes. These are areas where the structure is permanently welded to the frame of the car. When i removed the structure from the car i just cut through these tabs with the angle grinder as i was okay with leaving small tabs leftover attached to the chassis. However in the photo below it is possible to detach the tabs by drilling out the spot welds that i had uncovered with a wire wheel. After these tabs have been detached it is time to focus on the connections around the opening of the sunroof. Here we will find many more spot welds on the front and sides of the opening. For my purpose i drilled these out in their entirety as i will most likely be folding those lips over to where it wont be noticeable. After these spot weld are taken care of the only thing holding the structure in place is some adhesive and friction. Lets tackle the friction first. The rear lip of the sunroof opening is actually folded over onto the structure. I used a combination of pry bars, screwdrivers and scrapers to get the lip up. I didn't have to get all of the lip up until i relieved most of the pressure but results will vary. The final task is to get the blow torch. The areas marked in green have a layer of adhesive between the structure and the roof. I would apply some heat and then try to shove a puddy-knife in between to separate the adhesive from either side. Be careful on this step because too much heat will damage the paint. Below is a photo of the adhesive. Once you have worked your way around all the areas that have adhesive it still may take some wiggling and prying to finally get the structure to come free. The final steps are just touch up aesthetics depending on if you are okay with leaving the areas where the tabs were as is or to file them down or if you want to fold over the lips of the opening or patch the area with a new panel. Hopefully this helps some of you if you plan on doing something similar to me or you want to understand how the sunroof is held together. Thanks!
  6. Could you post photos of your installation. Im looking at ordering a cage kit for my racecar build in the next few weeks. Just want to see how close it is in certain areas. Also the website doesn't provide a great deal of info on the design.
  7. This sounds a lot like my racecar build that i am working on. Im using a Motec M400 ECU for engine management, Individual coil packs, The Turbo from a Focus ST as well as the intercooler from it(I own an ST as a daily). I'm probably going to build a custom intake for the build. As for internals im looking at forged pistons in the 9.0 CR range, Heavy duty valve springs, and a 292 cam.
  8. I was going to get the cage from https://rollcagecomponents.com/bmw-2002-roll-cage-kit/ in 1.75 x 0.90 It will some with the X style door bars, Triangle foot bar, Rear down Diagonal Kit, and i will be adding tie ins to the front shock towers from the cage. The class im racing in does not have any prohibitions on seam welding. Gridlife Touring Cup "10) Chassis a) No major modifications are allowed to the chassis, frame, unibody, floor, firewall, etc. unless clearancing is required (must not benefit performance in any way), or strengthen/bracing is needed. Non essential body/unibody items and trim may be removed for the purposes of weight reduction. Major unibody (or frame for non unibody cars) structural items may not be compromised or lightened. Material may be added to reinforce problem areas or known weak areas on chassis, or repair crash damage, but full reconfiguration/”tube frame conversion” to structural areas of unibody cars is not permitted. b) Radiator supports may be replaced with fabricated items for purposes of fitment or repair to chassis area, but general location of radiator must not be altered from factory. c) Chassis suspension locating points may not be altered or modified. Reinforcement of pickup points for longevity purposes is allowed, as is seam welding, but location shall not be changed. In the case of live/solid axle RWD vehicles, suspension pickup points may be added to facilitate converting to alternate axle locating method style (watts link , 4 link, panhard bar, etc) and alternate spring/shock mounts may be used.
  9. I think im okay on suspension. I plan on boxing the front and rear control arms.
  10. This is great! Thank you! I will be sure to do this.
  11. I'm getting to the point in my 2002 race car conversion where i would like to seam weld the chassis before i add in the cage. I was wondering if i could get some advice in which seams are the most important/provide the most benefit. I would like to be as efficient as possible in my seams to save myself time while providing the most benefit. Any help would be appreciated! P.S. Diagrams are very beneficial!
  12. I have a whole gauge cluster with that speedo in it
  13. I have one for a 76? Would that work or is there a difference?
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