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About 182kartracer

  • Birthday 10/06/1995

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  1. I was going to get the cage from https://rollcagecomponents.com/bmw-2002-roll-cage-kit/ in 1.75 x 0.90 It will some with the X style door bars, Triangle foot bar, Rear down Diagonal Kit, and i will be adding tie ins to the front shock towers from the cage. The class im racing in does not have any prohibitions on seam welding. Gridlife Touring Cup "10) Chassis a) No major modifications are allowed to the chassis, frame, unibody, floor, firewall, etc. unless clearancing is required (must not benefit performance in any way), or strengthen/bracing is needed. Non essential body/unibody items and trim may be removed for the purposes of weight reduction. Major unibody (or frame for non unibody cars) structural items may not be compromised or lightened. Material may be added to reinforce problem areas or known weak areas on chassis, or repair crash damage, but full reconfiguration/”tube frame conversion” to structural areas of unibody cars is not permitted. b) Radiator supports may be replaced with fabricated items for purposes of fitment or repair to chassis area, but general location of radiator must not be altered from factory. c) Chassis suspension locating points may not be altered or modified. Reinforcement of pickup points for longevity purposes is allowed, as is seam welding, but location shall not be changed. In the case of live/solid axle RWD vehicles, suspension pickup points may be added to facilitate converting to alternate axle locating method style (watts link , 4 link, panhard bar, etc) and alternate spring/shock mounts may be used.
  2. I think im okay on suspension. I plan on boxing the front and rear control arms.
  3. This is great! Thank you! I will be sure to do this.
  4. I'm getting to the point in my 2002 race car conversion where i would like to seam weld the chassis before i add in the cage. I was wondering if i could get some advice in which seams are the most important/provide the most benefit. I would like to be as efficient as possible in my seams to save myself time while providing the most benefit. Any help would be appreciated! P.S. Diagrams are very beneficial!
  5. I have a whole gauge cluster with that speedo in it
  6. I have one for a 76? Would that work or is there a difference?
  7. Do you still need this? Id be willing to cut mine out.
  8. Lots of 02 parts for sale. Getting rid of inventory left from a racecar build. Buyer pays shipping. Prefer pickup for large items but am willing to meet if close. All prices are negotiable! New Sachs Clutch(215) - $50 New Bosch Starter - $75 SOLD Radiator - $50 ANSA Muffler - $50 SOLD Stahl Header - $75 Rear Quarter Glass - $40 each H&R Sport Springs (3k miles) - $150 SOLD Gauge Cluster - $80 Gas Cap (No Key) - $25 Wiper & Turn Signal Stalks - SOLD Driver Side Mirror - $20 - SOLD Dash (Has Hole in it) - $100 Corner Glass - $40 Each Side Glass - $45 each Sold Tan Drivers Seat - $100 (pending ) Tan Passengers Seat - $100 (Pending) Tan Rear Door Cards - $40 each Hoosier Performance Engineering Belts (Expired) - $25 Gas Tank - $150 Pictures Upon Request Hella Fog Lamps - $40 Pair SOLD Tan Carpet Set - $75 Suspension Technologies Sway Bars (3k miles) - $200 Hood Hinges and Latch Bar - $40 Sunroof and rails - $100 Rear Window - $80 Wiper Fluid Bottle W/ Pump - $20 SOLD Window Regulators = $50 each Door Sill Covers - $50 SOLD Again all prices are negotiable! Also will add as i find parts lying around.
  9. As I mentioned before, the goal of this build is to build a car that meets the regulations of group 5 while implementing modern technology to make it faster. A set of the rules is located at https://argent.fia.com/web/fia-public.nsf/whistj?open . The specific rules im following are the 1976 versions since that is the year of my car. I will cover in brief the simplified versions of the rules as i have read them. I would ask if you have time please read them as well to make sure i haven't misinterpreted anything. The Main rules are in articles 268 and 269 Part A states the minimum acceptable weights as a dry weight(actually at end of race but lets add a safety factor) Part B ) The shape of the body must be retained but sections can be removed for weight savings. The Doors, hood and trunk may be made of different material but cannot change shape.All but windscreen material can be replaced. The Fenders are open but must retain the wheel arch shape and cover at least 180 around the tire and the full width of the tire. The interior is open but the driver should remain in the same area of the vehicle, with no sharp edges present. Part C) The block must be same as the original vehicle with displacement open. It must also be in the same orientation as the production vehicle. Part D) Gearbox and diff are open but should remain in same location in the vehicle Part E) The suspension type should be the same type as the production vehicle but points can change location Part F) Steering system is open Part G) Widths should match chart based on displacement Part H) Brakes are open Part I) There must be a safety cell. It may not be in drivers compartment or engine compartment. Part J) Aero Devices may not protrude out past the frontal projection of the car. Front splitter may not be longer than 10% of the wheelbase as measured from the furthest forward point on the original bodywork. It must also be installed below the plane of the wheel hub. The rear wing may not exceed 20% of the wheelbase as measured from the outermost part of the bodywork There are more rules in the earlier sections regarding cage material layout and size but that's a bit too technical for this post. Now time for me to explain the game plan. I have taken lots of inspiration from articles and pictures i have found on the internet. The most helpful was a speedhunters article on the Zakspeed Capri. It had great explanations as well as great pictures of the car less bodywork. http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/02/fire-breathing-neck-snapping-the-ultimate-capri/ Chassis - The main frame structure will rely on a 4130 Chomoly tube frame structure that will include all the major mounting points. This means both front and rear sub-frame structures disappear in order to reduce weight. Also the whole front clip will be removed. This frame structure allows for easier repair and modification to meet the needs of the car. It also increases the structural rigidity of the vehicle. This frame structure will also replace the rear of the car and provide safer mounting for the Rear wing and fuel cell. Suspension - Both ends of the car will have the original parts replaced by custom structures in order to reduce weight and have better kinematics since point dictation is free. Both ends will receive coil-overs with external reservoirs. Hubs will be upgrades to a modern 5 lug BMW setup in order to easier obtain aftermarket big brake kits and for easier choice of rims. Rims will stay a traditional 3 piece but with turbine fans in order to aid under-body air extraction. These wheels will be complimented with modern race rubber. Steering will be converted to forward mount Rack and Pinion Setup(I work for a steering company, its easy to get a spare one) Driveline - The Motor will stay an M10 Block but the head choice hasn't been finalized. The plan is to sleeve the engine down to 1.6 liter or a similar size that allows an already in production race piston. which will be paired to a lightweight con-rod. AS with the spirit of Group 5 the car will have a nice healthy turbo mounted to it. The goal is for around 450HP at the crank. The exhaust will have a side exit just before the passengers door. The Motor will also be equipped with a dry sump system and an external electric water pump. The Radiators will be moved rearward to in front of the rear wheels. This is because the front will have an oil cooler and intercooler. The transmission will be a 6 speed sequential that can either be set up for lever or paddle actuation. The rear differential will be from a newer BMW that can handle the power. The engine itself will be shifted back in the car balance out the weight and to reduce the rotational moment of inertia. Aero - The front will include a larger front spliter with side shields in order to maximize the available front downforce. This will transition into 2 small tunnels that open to the suspension area. The Front fenders will vent on top and out the back and include wing elements before the wheel to produce extra downforce. The side of the car will have large sideskirts in order to minimize air bleed over. The underside will be flat bottom until after the rear diff where a diffuser will be located. The diffuser will extend past the bodywork slightly to help with downforce. The rear fenders will house the radiators so they will have a forward intake and the air will be routed to vent in conjunction with the rear wing. Extra winglets will be mounted on the fender behind the wheel as well as the lower section of the fender will be used as a smaller diffuser section. The rear wing will be mounted with large endplates and in a location as to balance out the aero. All bodywork will be replaced with fiberglass except the roof. The doors hood and trunk will only change material not shape. Other - For safety and easy of use an airjack system will be mounted in the car. Also a fire suppression system will be mounted in the engine compartment. The dash will be replaced by a digital readout. The engine will be controlled by an aftermarket ECU from MOTEC. The race seat will be a proper FIA approved seat. The car will most likely look like Formula SAE met Group 5 which is basically whats happening. Let me know what feedback or questions you have about my plan. I haven't covered everything and there is still plenty of time to change things.
  10. What a busy week I've had. Monday the 17th is the big day. The day that i take my final step into the real world and start my first job. I'll be working at a company called NEXTEER Automotive where ill be doing R&D work on electric power steering systems. To go along with this new job i had to move from York, PA. to Flint, MI.(Feel free to send me a Brita filter LOL). The move included not only my personal belongings but also packing up my car and everything i had with it. Thankfully my father had an enclosed trailer that i borrowed to take everything with me. I ended up packing the car full with stuff in order to maximize space. For the trip i left at at 12.30 in the morning.The idea was to make it to Michigan before mid day. The other benefit is that there was no traffic so i could get used to towing the trailer without too much stress. I carried on until about 5 am where i stopped just after the PA Ohio border. I took a 2 hour cat nap laying across the front row of the truck. I carried on the rest of the way after that. Here in Flint i'm living in a 2 bed house that i'm renting. The big benefit is the extra large 2 car garage that comes with the place. I can fit the 02 and my daily in there and still have 4 feet all the way around the 02 to work. I look forward to using this place over the next year or 2 to make massive progress on the 02.
  11. Its been 2 years since the car came off the road with a non working engine. What started as an attempt to fix and improve the car has turned into a full on tear down. This was for a few reasons. First the new engine i had bought for the car had a bent crank so i struggled to get that engine back running. Next i tried to replace the seats with more supportive sport seats. During welding of the new seat brackets i stumbled upon multiple holes in the floor well. Some new and some poor botch jobs from previous owners. All of these developments led me to decision to turn the car into a race car. The tear down started last summer in the few and far between times that i was home. from college. Now that i graduated i had a few weeks to really dig into things. The main goal was to get the interior out. So far this goal was accomplished. I also managed to take out all the main glass although i did crack the front windshield when i removed it. I tried to keep most of the interior in tact as i removed it so that could sell it or use it in another car. The rear side glass was a pain to remove. The way the cotter pin sits makes it almost impossible to remove without either damaging the rubber seal or the cotter pin itself. As i pulled more out of the car i found more and more rust spots, some serious and some minor. This only confirmed my idea that it was a good idea to strip this car to its frame. I haven't touched the suspension or sub frames yet as i have to move the car from Pennsylvania to Michigan. More on that in a future blog post. As for now i'll just share some pictures of the current mess that is my car.
  12. Already sold them. Sorry Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  13. The body parts aren't up for sale yet. I need them to make molds for fiberglass Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

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