kine8282

Gotcha, thanks for the lead @jgerock

Sigh, looks like the search continues. Both are out of stock!

I should just give up on this interwebs thing, clearly I'm not any good at finding anything! Thanks @'76mintgrün'02. You always come in clutch!

Anyone find an affordable source for a Bosch Blue Coil? Only places I've seen so far is EBay but sellers are asking for $200+. Is that the going rate nowadays?

On 11/28/2022 at 7:28 PM, ray_ said:

Would you mind posting a pic of that bar installed? I want to see it in relation (mostly) to the front lip because I'm sticking a/c on the S14 car and I think there may be a clearance issue.

 

I have an ST bar on the car now but haven't fitted things up yet to see what new issues I'm making for myself. 😉

 

Cheers,

 

 

Here is another pic from the front of the my car. I’ve got about 3 1/2 inches of clearance between the floor and the bar. 

I’m looking for someone in the SoCal area who wants to trade sway bars. I bought the IE 22mm front sway bar with the special drop center version and don’t have any issues however I’m no longer going to do a motor swap and I want to go lower in the front so I need the clearance that the standard version offers. Anyone doing an engine swap in the SoCal area wanna to trade? 
 

Thanks for everyone’s help I think I’ve fixed the issue by straightening the linkages of the AKG chassis mounted shifter so it’s more parallel to the selector rod by lifting the rear end of the tranny up with some fender washers. I had to also add a washer to the CSB to keep the DS aligned. The tranny now shifts smoothly and I can finally spin the DS by hand.  Thanks to @Lorin and @2002iii
 

Here is a vid. Question, is it normal for the tranny to move that much to the driver’s side when in 5th gear?

Thanks for the advice @Lorin and @2002iii I’ll see if I can line it up closer together today. I have poly engine mounts and rocking a a E21 tranny bushing. I’m going to see if I can shim up the rear end of the tranny a little higher and see if that works better. Atleast I now have a lead the chase. 

Ive been testing the shifts to confirm that I’m in the right gear and now I’m able to dry shift into gear without putting the clutch in. Maybe the new oil in the tranny

is lubricating the internals? Still can’t move the bloody tires unless the clutch is in. Here is a video from under the car. I know the angle is a bit off can anyone tell me if I’m in neutral when I wiggle the shifter? There seems to be alot of play between the shifter pivot and the selector rod but I recalled that my old 4 speed had a similar feeling. Should it be tighter?

I need to tighten up the tranny mount since it’s moving the tranny too much when I shift into R or 5th. 
 

@Lorin Thanks for your help.  Do you know if a new clutch assembly with a new flywheel etc are always “tight” like this until you run the motor and let it “set”?

@pd_55 Looks your problem is solved  , that’s great. Mine is still on going.m, I’m 98% sure the tranny is in neutral. It just doesn’t act like it at least to me. Can you spin your rear wheel by hand?

Gotcha. In my research to try and fix my problem. I ran into info on the detent spring plunger sometimes being out of alignment especially when going into reverse. I dunno. Worth a try in your situation. Mine is that my tranny isn’t in neutral. It might be the AKG shifter being out of alignment but it’s definitely a puzzling problem. Good luck, I’ll be keeping an eye on this post

@pd_55 Did you ever find a solution for this? I’m having issues with my tranny not disengaging when it’s supposed to be in neutral. I too am using a chassis mounted shifter from AKG. Hoping to learn from what you’re going through. 

2 hours ago, tech71 said:

Seems oddly familiar, I suspect the problems lay with that shifter. You may be able to adjust it a bit but dont expect it to ever feel the same as the old stock set up.

 

Here is a video of my shifting through all the gears and the shifter seems fine. BUT this is with the clutch pulled in. I can play with it a little more so thanks for the input.

Anyone else have any ideas?

Aloha all! I just just got back my newly rebuilt M10 motor for my 72 Roundie so I figured it would be a good time to mate up the 5 speed Getrag 245. I've changed the seals on the tranny but I didn't take it apart, just changed the seals to avoid common leak issues. Running a brand new lightened 228  flywheel with new clutch and right sized TO bearing. Bench test shows all gears and reverse engaged. Running new clutch MC, new clutch slave and braided line. Clutch as been bled.

Problem is that when the tranny is neutral the transmission lets me go to 3rd and 4th great but doesn't let me go to others, the rear wheels will not move but I can turn the motor, tranny and the drive shaft from the crank pulley. When I push the clutch in I can engage all gears and can turn the rear wheels. That isn't normal right? I installed a LSD earlier this year so I know its a little harder to turn the rear wheel but it feels like the car is still in gear when it is supposed to be in neutral.

I checked the shift linkages and no issues, running an AKG chassis mounted short shifter and there is no binding or issues what so ever. Any ideas on what else to check or inspect?

The car isn't running yet, still need to plumb in the DCOE's and rad and hoses but it's getting there, just need to address this issue first.

Count me in! I too like the rear flares that don’t droop too low over the rear tire. I’m sure they serve a function (more aero in the rear?) but for a street car I like to look to be more balanced between the front and the rear when I’m looking at the car broadside. 

+1 on the reply by @Son of Marty this kept happening to me until i installed the right bushings to stop the heat from "boiling" the fuel and starving the carbs.

14 hours ago, Einspritz said:

If you want a scan and pdf file for the harness, I think I have one for early and late cars. You just go to your favorite copy store with a large format printer and print ~ 30 x 36 to see all the components. Then you can easily note the difference s.

 

Better than a magnifying glass...

 

PM me.

 

One thing to note is that after 50 years, ALL the wires and connectors corrode and the plastic gets hard and cracks, all adding increased resistance. Things then don't work as they should.

thanks for the push to renew everything...while i'm in there...

Thanks everyone! On the next challenge...

10 hours ago, M2M3 said:

No. You can't use one relay.

 

Don't overthink this. Relays are simple.  Same wiring for all cars.  Use the relays to power the lights.  Use the existing headlight wiring to trigger the relays.

 

Those articles you mentioned are very clear on what is needed and how to do it.

Thanks for the advice @M2M3, I think what was confusing me was that the wiring suffered from a very enthusiastic painter and the over spray got on the wiring harness towards the front of the car. I tried taking the paint off but the process left the wires completely unrecognizable however I did find some spots where the colors of the wires can be seen and I found the White wire which is the low beam (right?) and a Black/Yellow wire on the drivers side and Blue/Yellow wire on the passenger side these are the high beam (right?). Based on the wiring diagram those connect to Fuse #9 and Fuse #10 which is actually the Yellow wire that the articles that I've read were referring to. Makes sense to connect these to individual fuses due to the amount of power they put out. So based on this I can bypass these wires and fuses and tap/connect the relay directly to the Yellow wire (right?). 

10 hours ago, rockyford77 said:

You can purchase one of these and it is plug & play to headlight relays:  

Amazon.com

WWW.AMAZON.COM

 

 

Nice! Thanks for the the tip @rockyford77, this should make things much easier now that I think I've identified (I think) the wires that I need to connect to. Thanks for the diagram BTW.

10 hours ago, Mike Self said:

PM me if you'd like a copy of the column that describes how I did the high beam relay (and by extension how to do the low beam) on my '73; the column covers both six and 12 fuse roundies.  

 

Cheers

mike

PM'd thanks @Mike Self for your offer!

I've searched and read and searched and read most of the content on the FAQ as well as gone cross eyed trying to figure out how to install low beam and high beam relays for my 72 roundie. I think i'm suffering from info overload so I'm hoping the experts can help me understand what I need to "upgrade" my lighting system. I'm in the process of rewrapping the wiring harness in the engine bay while the motor is being refreshed and in the process of my research I've found multiple posts about folks adding relays for their headlights to take the strain off the switch.

I've read @BillWilliams post on the Tech Articles as well as @AustrianVespaGuy post on Wiring Upgrades. Both are very informative but to be honest I only understood maybe 75% of both articles. I think the article by @AustrianVespaGuy deals with "newer" 73 and up models as my car does not have a low beam relay and although @BillWilliams article is chock full of info, I really wish there were pictures or diagrams to help aid in the upgrade.

Here are my questions:

* Can I run 1 relay for both the Low Beam and High Beam? I reckon no

* Does anyone have a color coded wiring diagram for pre 73 12 volt cars? The IE one is great but that is for 73 and up.

Thanks everyone and Happy Lunar New year!

I figured as much. Thanks for the advice!

Aloha everyone,

I have a Getrag 5 speed tranny that I'm finally going to install in my 72 Malaga. The tranny is being checked and resealed and I figured that since I'm waiting, is it possible to measure and install the 5 speed cross member kit without having the tranny up on the car? Is that even advisable or should I wait?

I was planning to use the U shaped bracket from 2002AD that I purchased a while back but after reading quite a bit about the problem some have had with it I might just bolt it on and use it as a "guide" to know where to drill the IE cross member piece I was planning to buy. I know that lots of these types of upgrades depends on the car etc and I've read plenty of posts regarding the upgrade I figured i would ask if anyone has done the measurements and pre-drilled the holes and installed the brackets without the tranny on hand.

Thanks all.

On 1/19/2022 at 8:30 PM, pd_55 said:

@kine8282 Sounds like since I don’t have a car or engine lift, dropping it is the best way. And I will most likely keep the struts attached and just remove the caliper so I don’t need to re-bleed.

 

I saw you said you used the wood as extra height on the jacks and stands and that is my biggest point of concern. Once it’s up and high enough to roll the drivetrain out, how did dropping it slowly and carefully work? I plan on putting the subframe and engine on a dolly and rolling it under. Did you have enough maneuverability to locate the body to the subframe with just the Jack’s from each side?

 

Right i didn't have access to a lift nor enough space to employ an engine hoist due to the same limitations. I admit that seeing the front end that high is a little sketchy so i took my time. The term "dropping the motor" is a little deceiving since i actually didnt "drop" the motor but rather lifted the car while the front subframe was on the motorcycle lift. i lifted the car enough to fit the lift under the subframe and unbolt the subframe then dropped the motorcycle lift to its lowest point then started to lift the car slowly. this eliminated any sudden jolts and i was lucky that it lifted without any issues but that was after being under the car 20+ times before i attempted this to make sure nothing was going to snag.

I pulled the radiator to recore and battery tray so i had plenty of room.

I had also placed big pieces of cardboard under the motorcycle lift so that i can pull the whole thing without any real issues (tip from one other FAQ'ers). DM me if you have any questions or we can FaceTime / Zoom if you need anything.

@pd_55 I just dropped my motor for a rebuild and did it from the bottom with 2 jacks, 4 jack stands and some scrap 2x4 I had sitting around. I already had the head off since that is getting rebuilt too so that saves like 10 inches off the top and I found it easier to remove the front brake assembly along with the strut housing, springs etc. saves you from having them floping plus you don’t have the lift the front end all that high. My car has a front air dam so once the motor was down I pulled the whole thing from the passenger side. I used a motorcycle jack to support the front subframe with the motor and another smaller floor jack to support the tranny.  I did this solo and I’m not as clever as some of the folks in this forum so it’s not as hard as you may think. I haven’t put it back yet since I’m still waiting for the motor to be rebuilt but you only asked how one drops the motor…?