layers

The biggest problem with R12 replacements is for the AC tech-- how to recycle it. As Rob says, when you open an AC system you need to evacuate it: determining what the refrigerant is and how to recycle/dispose of it can be a real headache. While there are a number of R12 "equivalents" that probably work well (for example, propane will perform great as a drop-in R12 replacement but it has obvious flammability problems and worse, a leak can allow an explosive mixture to form), finding a tech to deal with the removed refrigerant can be either a problem or expensive, or both. In my case, AC was installed before the PO accepted the car after restoration (AC was a comfort to the PO when driving in St. Louis only in fair weather). Just a few months after purchase I needed to add refrigerant. CoupeKing left on R12 fittings but Peter Sliskovich insisted they only use R134a. After checking with a handful of AC shops that wanted $100 to check the refrigerant, I found one that only asked $25 for the 5-minute task: I had 93% R134a and 7% R12. After adding a can of R134a it has worked for a couple of years, and clearly the mixture has more R134a now than before. But I anticipate a disposal problem when I need to evacuate the system to initiate any future repair. And finally, I have an ancient unopened can of R12 (remember when they cost a buck, and you used it like Dust Off?) that I would be pleased to give to a good home. By a good home I mean a BMW owner who has an R12 AC, owns an R12 manifold and can drop by my home to pick it up. Larry

Hi Nick-- I'm not an engine machine expert, but I recall when replacing my rings at head rebuild time that my cylinders still had an obvious crosshatch (after 150k miles); it was smooth but clearly there. Did you install new rings when you rebuilt your head? Might another design of ring seal better even without a hone or rebore? These questions are getting beyond my level of experience but simply replacing your rings, if that would solve the problem, should not be excessively expensive. Larry

Hi Nick-- In my opinion you should first determine where you have the problem: valves/head or rings/block. FAQ has a number of posts discussing wet/dry compression tests and leak-down tests. You should consider a few hours of professional testing a good investment to show what you need to fix (I have a Proto compression gauge, but with all the tiny details needed to get good results I'm better off letting someone like Sean Casey do a real test). Then you can scope your options and plan the costs. I had fairly good results getting a head rebuilt after my engine spit the #4 spark plug at me. The local shop did the machine work, installed parts from Circle Tire (except Michel had business problems then, so it took a couple of months to get the proper rocker-arm shaft). He correctly told me I did not need to hone the cylinders, and the main bearings were still good. But I should have replaced the oil pump (150K on the engine and the pump worked for another 100K. But a year or so after the head it would not hold oil in the filter after shutdown; I needed a Fram PH46 oil filter, with anti-drainback valve, to prevent 2 minutes of no oil pressure at start-up). Oh, and dollar-wise I would have been better off just buying a rebuilt E12 head from Rick Haner, allowing lower compression and less ping on 91 octane fuel (hey, there was 94 octane Sunoco when I rebuilt the head...). Your testing might also indicate poor ring sealing. I replaced the rings at head rebuild and that might be all you need. But if you have a scored or worn cylinder it could take more work (or maybe a used engine). Larry

Hi-- Ask Sean Casey in Petaluma [http]; he rebuilds and enhances engines from time to time and also supports FAQ & BayArea 02. I do not know his prices or schedule, however he did give me a fair price when he installed a Metric Mechanic engine in my late car a few years back. Look at [http] for more ideas. While some of these businesses have moved or closed, most are still around in some way or form. Another possibility is Terry Tinney in Livermore [http]. Arne Carlson recommended him a few years ago (you can probably contact Arne for more details on the BayArea 02 Topica bulletin board). Larry

Hi-- Decades ago the CCA Boston Chapter tested acceleration on a 2002 with stock exhaust against Ansa and Supersprint (and perhaps a few others). For a stock 2002 the OEM was at least as good as any other. But if you flow more air (sidedrafts, headers, cam, porting & polishing, etc.) the Ansa or Supersprint may help. Of course, stainless steel has other corrosion benefits. Larry

A nice stainless steel washer under the acorn nut helps the nut snug smoothly. I just now remembered that Lowery (the airplane electrician) made sure I had these washers when he finished rebuilding/installing my first rebuilt engine. Larry

Hi-- I often use a Pittsburgh click-type 1/4" drivewrench (cheap @ $25, cheaper now, but do you trust it?). With the low In-Lb range I could not check it at a torque wrench party a few years back, where a Snap-On rep appeared with a digital torque transducer. We mounted that in a vice and out of perhaps 25 wrenches my Craftsman from about 1979 (I bought it to properly install aluminum wheels, but it has been handy since) was most accurate. The least accurate was a 1/2" drive Pittsburgh wrench; the owner complained of snapped studs when working on his head and then found it was 100 % off! Airplane mechanics must keep a wrench calibrated, and mine visited Hughes Airwest when fairly new. I also have a hand t-type wrench fixed at 15 In-Lbs for military coolant hoses. As new military surplus it was cheap, and it says it came from Richmont Inc. in Monrovia Calif. Unfortunately I did not get it's lower torque brother. Oh, I like Stan Simm's Shade Tree Mechanic comment about using disk brake wheel bearing grease on the engine drain plug and I also put a tiny layer on a valve cover gasket. Most of the time it works pretty well. Larry

Hi-- Here is OSRAM's data sheet for 12 volt festoon base lamps. The license plate lamp is the 6428 type 3 Watt, nominally 28mm long (measured to the contact points; maximum overall length is a couple of mm longer). I have also installed LED bulbs, from Super Bright LED's [http]. The interior light is their model 4210-WWHP3; it is still a bit bluer than the incandescent miniature lamp, but it provides a little more light. The license plate lamps I have are 3610-NW4 (rather blue, but it looks good on a California license plate). They took a little jiggling to get the contacts to work (note the LED bulb polarity; that does not matter with an incandescent bulb). And just now I noticed that one of the 2 license plate bulbs has lost most of its brightness. An OEM incandescent bulb would last longer than that! OSRAM festoon-base lamps GPS01_1057062 120725.pdf

Hi Carl-- Thanks for your comments. Interestingly enough we drove in Livermore twice yesterday, once on Tesla Rd. heading East, then back over Patterson Pass to a pizza place for lunch (see [http]). The fuse failed about half way back to Walnut Creek, on the other side of Mt. Diablo. Larry

OK, one more small photo. Note the cones, even though we were not autocrossing. This S14 cabriolet now resides in San Ramon.

Hi— Thank you Paul for organizing a fun drive. While it was a little warm, the roads were fun and of course the people provided good conversation. Here are a few photos:

Hi— Thank you everyone for your helpful replies. Even before I saw Allbim’s comment I checked the current passing through the fuse with my DVM: maybe 4.5 Amps initially when I turn the key, dropping to about 3.5 to 3.8 Amps otherwise. So I installed another new white fuse and everything seems to work fine (even AC, which apparently has no connection on this circuit). I disconnected the battery and looked under the fuse block, but the only oddity was the #12 fuse connection for the thermo-time switch bypass relay that CoupeKing installed at restoration; those wires even have an extra sheath for their tiny path. And when I looked at the wiring diagram in my repair manual (purchased in 1973 when my late car was only a few months old) I found the fuel pump in any tii diagram hooked to fuse #11, not #12. My circuit reference was Carl Nelson’s fuse block decal, which he sent based on a ’74 tii. While I think Mike has a good point about stray wire short circuits, I do not have enough circuit details to really look much further. Besides, CoupeKing installed Recaros (now replaced by my restored Konig seats) so the seatbelt alarm wires are not identified or located. I appreciate Jim’s comment about fuel filters, and since I have not checked the internal ones since I bought this car 2.5 years ago it is a good idea (I had enough problems with fuel filters on my late ’73, especially with an added Facet electric fuel pump). I checked the for screen in the pump but found none. Also, the pump looks pretty clean, suggesting that CoupeKing either installed a rebuilt pump or cleaned up one they had. Looking at the screen in the tank and replacing the filter next to the radiator could also be good preventative maintenance. Now that I reviewed the fuel pump retrofit article, and realize that Bavarian Autosports only sells that 1980’s electric pump for a tii, I plan to get one and associated hoses and wiring so I have a spare ready. It sounds better than the rebuilt option or getting a new one for even $350. With my ’73 I found that carrying a spare fuel pump is a good idea. Larry

Hi-- On the way back from the Tri-Valley Drive my '74 tii blew fuse #12. Everything, including the AC, seemed to be working fine but as I decelerated toward a stop sign I noticed the tach stopped and a warning light on. I pulled over and pulled the hood. While I looked at the distributor (no tach so no tach signal?), Paul (he was following; thanks Paul) noted that the #12 fuse was blown. I replaced it with my spare white (8-Amp) fuse, but when I tried to restart it blew again immediately (AC off). After a little ruminating I installed my spare 16-Amp fuse and everything (I did not try AC...) worked fine on the 20 miles home. My key question: since this fuse protects the fuel pump, tach and brake fluid & oil warning lights, does it mean my fuel pump is on its last legs? Thanks for your observations! Larry

Look at [http] in the FAQ BayArea 02 Forum for drive information. See above for update! Just a reminder, look at the above page for more details. And be sure to RSVP to Paul if you're coming; it's less than a week away! Larry

We have a drive ready for 21 July! Mark your calendar to meet in Dublin at 9:00 AM; this date is now firm. We will meet on Regional Street in Dublin and take the long way to Livermore via Palomares Rd., Rt. 84 through Sunol to Vallecitos Rd. into South Livermore, wiggle onto Tesla Rd. East to Corral Hollow Rd., tuck under I-580 near Tracy and return to Livermore via Patterson Pass, a total of 73.9 miles according to Google. After lunch at Melo's Pizza on 1st St. in Livermore there will be an optional drive on Vasco Rd., Marsh Creek Rd. and Morgan Territory Rd to Highlands Rd. for a return to Dublin about 61 miles further. I understand that Steve Jackson’s car can drive this while snoozing, although it may need to wake up for a few alternative turns. PLEASE RSVP to Paul Gommel (our organizer) at [pgommel@gmail.com] if you plan to participate. Meet at The Bagel Bakery, 7168 Regional Street, Dublin, CA 94568. Note that 9AM is an hour earlier than a classic gathering, but it gets us to lunch at a better time. Melo's Pizza [http] address is 4433 1st St. This is the page to look for any updates as we approach the drive a little more than 2 weeks away! Larry

Hi Steve and everyone-- Thanks for your thanks; I had a great time seeing everything and visiting with you and others. And in spite of the pot-banging needed to get the group together without Paul, the planning was kind of fun, too (well, except for the confidence needed to wait out the shirt design until 2 May in the morning, e-mailed from a plane en-route to New Orleans; the shirt printer was ready and had them at my door by 3 May to share with all of you on 5 May!). Right now the spirit is large and we hope to soon form some more definitive plans for next May, with a few drives/gatherings in between. Larry

Hi-- Thanks for posting your photos; they're really good (especially the ones of my car-- 6KIV...). I hope you had as much fun as I did yesterday! Larry

Hi Jeremy-- Thanks for posting your photos! As usual I enjoyed looking at them. I trust that you enjoyed the show. Stay tuned for a drive or two later this year-- Paul commented that he has a couple in mind to discuss at our debrief in a month or so. I hope we can announce something after that meeting in Events and the BayArea 02 forum. Larry

Hi Michael-- I saw you across the show but did not catch up to say "HI", so I'll just use this reply instead. I first thought you drove your car, but then learned you sold it to Jan; it's a little sad but I know it has a good home. Rumor has it that Steve Peterson (of Bluntech) drove it to Brisbane. I also realize you know where to find a new project when you want it! Larry

Hi Bob-- Thanks for posting your photos again; as usual they are inspiring! I would have joined your caravan except I was in Brisbane as you gathered, getting the show underway. Larry

Hi Steve-- Thanks; the list of volunteers is growing but not yet complete. I expect to arrive about 8:00 AM to initiate set-up. Larry

Hi-- The following e-mail was sent to those of you who we have e-mail addresses for; they came from last year's preregistration and since we have no prereg this year we have no updates/additions. -------------------------------------------------------- Dear 02 Fanatic, We are gearing up for the annual Bay Area 02 Swap & Show next weekend, and we're looking forward to seeing you and your car...whatever condition you're both in. We are making this year's event streamlined for maximum fun. Simply arrive between 9:00-10:00AM on Saturday, May 5, 2012 at the Brisbane Marina, in Brisbane CA with $20 cash. In exchange, you'll get a t-shirt, a raffle ticket, and an awesome spot to either show your 02 or swap/sell parts. We're assembling a "Quarter Panel" of 02 specialists for a Q&A session about all things 02, and the famous taco truck will be on site for this Cinco de Mayo. So join us next weekend for a great day of vintage BMWs. Location details are on the home page, http://www.bayarea02.com/ or http://maps.google.com/maps/place?ftid=0x0:0x0&q=37.676639,-122.382&hl=en&t=h&cad=src:ppiwlink&ei=bKKdT4fnCK7UiALv8ZjdBw&dtab=2 The Bay Area 02 team ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- As the BayArea 02 Forum on FAQ develops we may be able to provide a convenient way to add your name to our list. For now we will post details on FAQ as they emerge. We also anticipate that next year we will get things underway sooner so we can offer preregistration. In any case, we'll see you on Saturday in Brisbane! Larry