AceAndrew

34 minutes ago, tzei said:

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Internal pumpkin teeth/tooth broken?

Naw, you're fine leaving this here as a new intro thread.  I'd just suggest just putting a link in this thread to your new ongoing one. Seriously happy to see you here though, we could all learn from you and what you guys are doing.

Here's the classic build-thread style area, here's the blog section.

*EDIT: also, if you want, we have an ongoing "what did I do today" thread where we do all dogpile our progresses, kind of a fun/informal collective way to share progress.  Please post there as well!

By pulling no punches, I mean that you're going all out on the car, which is awesome.  It's always fun to see what someone creates without the inhibitions of keeping it "classic".  Really enjoyed the fabrication in ep.2 

37 minutes ago, RogueFab said:

 

Also, I know these aren't officially an "E10" chassis. That is a common nickname, and we are using it

 

haha, well, you've acknowledged it then.  If you think it'll help get more views, I can't fault the logic.

Welcome to the FAQ! Best of luck on your project, looks like you guys are having fun.  Love that you guys aren't pulling any punches.  Looking forward to seeing what engine choice you make and how the car does on track!

Please note: We do have a section article style blogs and a section for build threads.  The general area here is purposefully nearly void of build threads, in-part to avoid diluting the section with commercialized content.  You'll find that the many shop owners, fabricators, parts specialists on here all mutually benefit from this arrangement. 

On 10/25/2023 at 2:53 PM, Leucadian said:

 

This is art.

You're very kind, especially since I've felt the same about your engine bay.

Sorry for the tiny posts.  The reality is that I've been quite taken up with homework.  Getting to do something small on the 02 is a way to incentivize finishing homework during the week.

Ran the vacuum lines to connect everything up.  Then put in the center 1/2" hose fitting onto the manifold (also from Vibrant), its hose will then run to the booster.  

Next little project will be modifying the Lokar throttle cable to work with the redline bottom mount throttle mechanism.  After that it will be sorting out coolant hoses.  Baby steps.

Wack it harder (if you've got one of those rubber/yellow plastic 2 sided hammers, hit it with the yellow side).  "big circle" comes out.  

Yours just has a bit of extra crust that needs to be overpowered.

Never needed anything close to a press.

^ Beautiful!  Being in SoCal, I miss the fall colors.  

Couple father / son(s) projects over the weekend.

1) Silver brazing project using some 2002 parts.

2) Little mounting bracket for the Vibrant vacuum manifold.

This bracket was a good excuse to use more of that Alodine.

Now to run lines....

11 hours ago, sczapiga said:

 

That coating would be perfect for my timing cover and other raw bead blasted parts BTW

If you plan on doing your timing cover (I want to as well)... couple things to consider:

1) You'll want a "water-break-free" finish prior to dipping (essentially when a water drop cannot bead, but rather breaks).  (only use gloves when holding your bead blasted parts to avoid recontamination).

2) It's not a long-lasting corrosion inhibitor (like anodizing would be). Given it's a good primer, using something like a clear Cerakote over top will likely be a good way to lock in the finish and have it last longer. 

4) Its toxic, so have a proper storage/disposal plan in place.

38 minutes ago, sczapiga said:

Super cool! I’ve got to ask…what is this book you speak of? Or is that an abbreviation for something I haven’t learned yet? 

Thanks!  Not a book per-say, just manufacturing methods for aerospace/astronautics industry. Since making the jump from making car parts to making space junk I've gotten to see how much crossover there is in how things are made.  There are old NASA papers where you read them and you think.... this guy MUST have been a hotrodder (I think @visionaut can probably speak with more authority on this than I).  It's awesome.  

In the case of alodine/chemfilm, it's used on titanium and aluminum when something is a) too big to anodize b) is dimension critical (anodizing, although more robust, is still too thick on some components).  When sending metallics into space, you want to have some sort of coating to prevent cold welding or prevent corrosion while the part is waiting for its ride.  Airplane mfg. uses it a lot, but I can't speak to specifics there.

There's no super good reason for me to use it on these manifolds, just thought it'd be neat to see how it holds up.

Fun little project this weekend.

Took a little page from the aro/astro book of how to do things.  When finishing titanium or aluminum in something other than anodizing, alodine/chemfilm is frequently used.  It's a corrosion inhibitor and can leave a slightly-iridescent gold finish.  Nasty stuff, but thought it'd be fun to incorporate into the car.

-blast

-rinse

-acetone/IPA bath

-chemfilm bath (3min.  warm.  2/3 deionized water dilution)

-rinse (chemical process will keep going until rinsed.  too long of bath leaves a very flat mustard finish.

Also installed choke delete kits, little white air bypass set screw caps, and drilled/tapped the bottom bosses for the upcoming vacuum manifold.

tell us how you really feel...

I make the set that IE sells, used to supply them to Blunt as well, but wasn't able to handle a single-set drop ship system with school/work.  Out of respect I won't comment on the SS lines, I'm sure they'll work fine.  Just realized I've been making these sets for ten years now, jeez time flies.

Yes you can cut back and splice in a line using a female/female M10x1 bubble flare connector.

https://www.amazon.com/Inverted-Fittings-Unions-Metric-Threads/dp/B08B46Z14L/ref=psdc_346823011_t2_B07BN2W68Q?th=1

Beware of some cunifer/nicopp line out there now.  The market has been flooded with chinese line that has a much higher copper / less nickel metallurgical makeup.  If you're going the DIY route, just ensure the line is US or UK made.

That wrench is nice to have, just don't plane on reusing the nut. 

36 minutes ago, ajordan282 said:

I'd be able to decide whether to replace the rod screws...and have more room in the garage  😄

 

Neat formula baja.  

As for skipping class..... since COVID you can find this class on youtube.

Case in point, my former professor now has a complete structures II playlist .... for your long-commute listening.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJN7mr1gK7YWprPrRf-hC4beBnPPAkQpV

9 hours ago, ajordan282 said:

shaka bro 🤙🏽 

 

Hearing one bad experience would convince me in a heart beat. But I didn’t find any. So I’m still considering doing something dumb. 

..... out of hundreds of m10 rebuilds I've sold parts for when I was at IE, I would be the first (or at least within the first 5) guy to hear when something broke. 

  While infrequent, I would get calls/photos on rod bolts giving way.  Rare on street builds (I can think of three-ish instances), but enough to where I'd just rather not start climbing the f-around/find-out curve.

33 minutes ago, ajordan282 said:

 

Additionally, I’ve been doing some reading on connecting rod bolts. Machinist says reuse them. 

 

To quote south park...

From a pure engineering perspective, as long as the entirety of the metal sleeve is covered... then have at it.  Avoid fully threaded fasteners for this, but conversely as long as the thread length is within a reasonable margin of factory then your MS is still well in the clear.

From a practical perspective, that area is frequently the most gunked up on the car.  Grime-clogged Allen-heads are a pet peeve.

I used a nut w/ reinforcement.  Lot's of good threads on this if you search.

Here's a quick one....

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/246148-b-pillar-belt-mount/

Wonder what California does with classic plates.....

Oh wait...

They’re getting spendy.

id suggest this recent new part

Water Divider for BMW M10 Engine

POLISHPOWERTRAIN.COM

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1 hour ago, Alyssa said:

 (I heard 2002 owners are the nicest).

Lies and deception.  We caught another one everybody!

However, you will find many here will go to the ends of the earth to help someone who shows a desire to learn how to help themselves (myself included).

The 02 is a fantastic car to learn to work on mechanical-wise.  My initial advice is similar to others (read a ton) and put the word out.

easy to put this way… if I’ve got a slightly leaky old engine, then I take half of that engine and seal it up new and tight… then the other half of older leaky bits will see the increased pressure/blow by.  In short, the existing issues will be exacerbated… but to what degree it’s impossible to say exactly.

I get where he’s coming from.  But as long as you realize that your bottom engine issues wont get better and may be slightly more noticeable, then slap it on.

Terribly sorry, I don't recall the color.  In the pre-paint phase I sprayed a couple generic light greys on a piece of cardboard and held it up to a NOS bumper section to compare.

Thank you, best of luck on your winter project.  Finding a good old-school chrome shop will be the main concern.  Hopefully Wisconsin still has some left!

30 minutes ago, Mike Self said:

 

I've seen bumper insides painted both silver (very close to the silver used on steel wheels) or a light grey.  Sometimes on the same car, and even on the same bumper.  

 

Seeing the insides of hundreds of chrome bumpers .... this reflects my experience.  

This color is close, but not "perfect", but with so many variations the "correct" finish is an illusion.

That hole certainly looks a bit on the rougher side.

As mentioned before, nuts on the backside are a nice touch.  However, you will need to remove the glass to make it happen.  

I'd suggest an improved version of what others and myself have done.  A securing plate on the backside with tack-welded or brazed nuts.  With the nuts solid to the plate, snugging them up wouldn't require glass removal in the future. 

Hi Doug,

Welcome to the FAQ, glad to have you here. You will find many questions have been asked and answered numerous times before.  The articles section and the search function will yield a lot of great information.

There are a lot of FAQ members in the northwest and some great shops.  My personal favorite is Patrick of Midnight Motorsports in Seattle.  You'll find his name mentioned many times before.

Looks like you've picked up a great looking early 02 hotrod with lots of fun bits.  I really like the interior choices.  Despite the very cool engine bits, you'll find a number of us are rather skeptical about the HP claims.  However, at the end of the day it's got to be very very fun to drive.

Andrew