AceAndrew

1) The welded stud is an non-recommended "improvisation".  It was possibly done to emulate the "bubble" stop found on some wheel studs.  Glad you found this before it sheared.

 Your brakes appear to be larger than original (vented disks).  ASSUMING that you have larger brakes that used the hub from an E21 (you can identify this quickly by seeing if the brake rotor is mounted on top of the hub versus behind the hub), which utilized thread-in wheel studs (12x1.5).  

Note that there are some variations to brakes/struts that we'd need to see a picture from the front to fully break down what you have.

2) Hardlines there are normal.  I like to loosen the upper nuts simply because there's more accessibility. 

3) If its a thread in stud, just clean/chase the threads in the hub and thread in a new stud.  Some new studs will feature an allen-key provision on the end to use when installing.  If no provision is there, use the "double nut" method to tighten in a new stud.  A little thread locker is a nice touch.

Someone spent some serious money on parts (IE swaybars, Koogle strut brace, lux door panels, silver dollar cluster, e21 recaros, refinished subframes, minilites)... and I'm just guessing here.... but he/she became heart broken when the body shop failed to produce a finish commiserate to the restorer's vision.  Hence why it's now in the hands of someone like BHCC. 

-no waist/rear trim (harder to restore/source when the car appears to have been restored, indicative of cut corners).

-front replacement nose fitment off.
-hood lead edge parrot-nosed

-rear panel sunken in

-floor repairs with no close ups

-rockers painted black with no close ups

-uneven lower body lines

It COULD be "the perfect car", but one would need to accept the bodywork as is or have it redone.  As is, the car sits in a restoration purgatory.

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Right now is a great time to look out for abandoned projects.  There were a lot of people who jumped in on restorations in the last ten years who are now looking at falling/desperate market coupled with a grudging acknowledgement of a lack of time/skills/money.  I've seen more half finished decent cars for sale in the past six months than I've seen in the past six years.

^ Nice, this is a case when I love to be proved wrong.

On 5/15/2024 at 7:00 AM, visionaut said:

FWIW, I wrote

%100 that response email ended up in the bin.  Their decision to start charging and providing a printout was undoubtedly done as the result of some internal meetings surrounding the profitability/efficiency of the classic division.  I'm sure the initial offer from Andreas to pull up data and email it to Joe Schmo represented something beyond the scope of his normal role.  As more email requests came in, the more of a time suck it became.  

As for making the database public, is there record of any corporation doing such a thing?  I can imagine that there would be some nere-do-wells that would look up records of rare-spec vintage bimmers in order to appropriate the vins for their restorations (used to think that stuff doesn't REALLY happen until I laid my eyes on some vin swapped 02's from a popular European restoration company).

Thinking about it, this would actually be a great use of AI.  Feeding the current database into an AI that could interface with either a classic employee or customer would be cheap, quick, and effective.  Shoot, charge $5 on the website and you'd look very clever at your next performance review meeting!

As for the "BMW Classic Center" stateside .... there is internal corporate movement on that.

25 minutes ago, NMDerek said:

Holy green hornet Batman, that Kato look is awesome!

Haha! thank you!  Love Kato-san's creations (especially the older ones). 

This design was modeled partially after the headers I'd seen/heard on the Hakosuka S20 and a half-bank of the Ferrari 412 T2 3.0L V12.  Drago (Candella Mfg.) brought it to life.   Hopefully they'll sound the part...

@Mark92131  Like the bracket solution.  Looks slick.

Painted the uprights and the areas behind the headlight brackets black.  Authentic brush stroke pattern, haha. Also painted the front portion of the radiator with Eastwood’s radiator paint.

Test fit the front grill to make nothing visually jumps out from behind.  Fun fact, I bought the grill in 2012 when BMW did a batch of them.  Price was $107.  Glad to finally see it on the car.

Got the header back from ceramic coating from the boys at Raw Powdercoating (LongBeach).  They do fantastic work, enthusiast owned/operated.

Thanks to Jesus at CK for the E9 3.0cs OE spark plug wire loom, another little period touch.  Mounted it with some standoffs, but will likely get some more thermal protection for the wires.

….. and it’s finals week!  First final is tomorrow morning. 

Hi Mark,  there are hours of comments/information you can go through that cover this very topic.

For example, here's one that should get you covered.

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/140561-difference-between-e12-and-e21-heads/

Best of luck on the rabbit hole!

^ I will disagree.  I've seen the IE shorty and ss downpipe push out a couple hp over the 2002tii header.   However, I've seen a different shorty lose power.

5] Try not fully seating the header right away.  Hang the header flange on the ends of the studs so that they're barely poking through on the bottom.  Start your nut(s), seat the flange as you tighten the nuts.

Header nuts are also nice.  Bellmetric has a bunch.

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Never liked a giant slag of ugly cast iron ruining the engine bay.

@raycycl  You posting updates anywhere?  Good luck!

Incorporate into a '02 document/receipts pouch.

M5.

Going off of readily available stuff .... I was going to recommend a milk cap.  Could heat up something round with a lighter and punch a hole through the middle.

Welcome to the FAQ.

The steering wheel indicates it's likely a 1974.

It's very hard with the photos to say definitively what condition the car is in.  It looks like there could be a fair amount of Bondo in places, so I'd bring a magnet and check any areas that seem suspect.

What exactly are you hoping to get, and what is your tentative goals with the car?

In general, here is a decent guide to use:

Ha! This is awesome.  @FrictionTape we've all been there to some degree.  Thanks for posting.

1 hour ago, sczapiga said:

 

Also made a center console insert to incorporate my Brantz computer, usb, hazard switch, radio and headset amp. It’s much more solid now and one modular piece instead of generations of cobbled together inserts. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That is obnoxiously awesome looking.  

Neat part, but as per forum rules please post a price.  If you are unsure of the item's value, you are welcome to post a list on the general discussion section.  If you'd like to look for what someone is willing to pay, please post them on ebay.

Neat part, but as per forum rules please post a price.  If you are unsure of the item's value, you are welcome to post a list on the general discussion section.  If you'd like to look for what someone is willing to pay, please post them on ebay.

Glad to hear that you're car is up and running. 

^ I tried to explain that to the other fellows while they were in the data-collection faze.  Apparently someone else they were talking to convinced them otherwise.

Look ... there is no wrong or right choice on this.

2/3 of the people on here will probably say rubber, because its original and it's worked for fifty plus years.  and they're right.

1/3 of the people, myself included, will say black silicone because it looks cleaner, modern rubber aint what it used to be, and it lasts longer.... and I'm/they're right.

My estimation of the ratio would have been 50/50 prior to 2017-ish when an influx of people began to view the 2002 as an asset.  Again, no chip, just being straight forward.

I go back to the first exposure I had with a 2002.  Circa 2008, I was a broke country-kid/ski-bum from Idaho/Montana who somehow thought it would be fun to hop on an airplane and attend an automotive design school in Turin, Italy.  The college was in a renovated 19th century four-floor conjoined building.  We had our first semester of "History of Design" on the ground level in a big room with herringbone-patterned wood floors and white walls.  Our professor was a chief designer at Bertone by day, and lecturer in the evening.

His first lecture initially contained the usual power point slides extolling the virtues of swoopy Italian design.  The usual beautiful cars you'd expect filled each page.  However, mid lecture he stopped dramatically and, with a very stereotypical flourish, stated, "However, it is not just about pretty curves!  Also important are good proportions!" , and he clicked again to reveal a picture of a clean early 2002.  "Proportions, proportions, proportions!" He yelled, enunciating each syllable in a heavy Italian accent. 

You could say it made a big impression on me. 

15 minutes ago, BeMyWay said:

Ace...you drilled that!

 

Very nice work...thanks for the instructions.

Ha, no..... just found the drill bit that had the closest ID to the knob hole.... then electrical tape to hold it on ..... high precision work, NOT.

@M3This .... looks stunning.  Cannot wait to see a video off it ripping up to Bogus.

Ever since @zinz showed me a picture of his beautiful 2000cs knob, I wanted one.  Luckily @bmwguy323 had one for sale.

Refinished to match the Nardi.  Haven't done much wood refinishing, so this was subject to a steep learning curve and limited tools (a la' drill-turned-lathe).  Have a lot more respect for you wood workers now.

Making list to keep as reference for when I inevitably forget again: 

-disassembled knob

-Sanded down with 80 grit and back up to 2000 grit, stained.

-Applied starbond CA glue (1 coat thin, 5 coats medium, 2 coats thin).

-Sanded w/ 320 up to 2000 grit.

-Polished w/ EEE wood polish

-Finish polish w/ fine scratch polish 

Rouler ,  I have had experience producing parts via a sloppy fiberglass supplier, and these days I work with space-bound dry carbon structures .... so opposite ends of the spectrum.

The SonOfCobra bits that I've seen are very well done.  As good as you can get without an autoclave.  However, the wording in your post is setting off alarm bells of someone who is looking for problems where there aren't any .... a mountain out of a molehill, if you will.  "Fettling" is required in all bodywork situations.

Hoping that helps.

PM sent yesterday evening about the knob. 

I very strongly dislike painted fasteners as it looks like shoddy workmanship and opted not to paint them on my project..... however, yes, they were painted from the factory.