AceAndrew

Woah, didn't expect this.  Someone is going to get quite the Christmas present. 

Hi Aiden,  you may recall my comment regarding "teach a man to fish", rather than "give a man a fish".  You'll find that this has been brought up a number of times and answered a number of times.  I believe it's also covered in the factory repair manual we have a .pdf copy on the FAQ you can download.

Here's a couple that you can find in two minutes of searching.

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/183598-how-to-install-rear-quarter-glass-and-assembly/

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/173199-rear-quarter-window-install/

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/186108-rear-quarter-glass-where-does-one-use-the-cotter-pin-for-install/

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/68326-rear-quarter-window-install-question-help/

Hope that helps point you in the right direction!

Those look fantastic Mike.  Looks like what the car wished it would have had to begin with.

58 minutes ago, Pier82 said:

the only one kit i choose for the purchasing it is reported as compatible. I think the kit is good or all valves...

If you post a picture of your heater valve, we can help tell you which one you need.

Here's a couple pictures of the EARLY valve (used up until mid-1971 with smaller hoses diameter)

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/332090-early-style-heater-valves-rebuilt-sold/#comment-1616693

Here's a picture of the LATE valve (used from mid-71 to the end of production)

https://flickr.com/photos/152898763@N04/28929983208/in/album-72157688836659335/

You can see the difference in size.  Rebuild kits typically come with O-rings, some LATE valve rebuild kits come with new pivoting bodies.

The link UAI posted shows 

picture 3: EARLY size o-ring and c-clip

picture 4: LATE size o-rings

Hi Aiden,

Welcome to the FAQ!  It's great to hear of your intent to document your experience fixing 02's.  Please note that looking for parts for this car is going to be more challenging than if you had a newer, more common, car.  That being said, there are a number of parts suppliers very familiar with the 02.  

A good list of suppliers and shops who know 02's can be found here.  However, directly addressing your question, Ireland Engineering has created big brake kits that utilize Wilwood calipers.  You may want to consider rebuilding your factory calipers, and look for direct replacement parts rotors/bearings/pads/lines.

For more information, you'll want a copy of the factory service manual (a .pdf is in the technical section of this website).  You can also find diagrams and part numbers at realoem.com

You will find that a lot of us are more than willing to help.  However, expect a "teach a man to fish" experience, over the "give the man a fish" experience.

^Yes, that's fantastic work @bweelr .  I can empathize with your situation of busy life where tinkering on the 02 is almost therapeutic. 

------------------------

Thanks guys for the cherry picker options.

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Finished up the wiper assembly.  Converted the electrical connection to a Deutsch connector.  Wrapped the canister in the blue  tape as per original.  Included rubber washers at the post mounts, not per original on early cars.  

1 hour ago, JQ02 said:

So, I just got off the phone with Steve at Top End. He said since I'm going to 91 mm I shouldn't have any issues with my block and ordering the pistons now, which should be plenty of lead time.

I will definitely start a blog post on the whole thing.

I'm going with stainless steel +1 valves.

Apparently, the cam needs to ground so he's going to do a '272/274 Turbo Profile'

If you're going with a 91mm bore, then get your MLS headgasket on order as well.  There can be leadtimes involved as most suppliers don't keep them on the shelf.

^^ This was the style I photographed on a Nevada 1600 while I was at CoupeKing back in 2019-ish.  Will dig up the photos after finals next week and edit this post.

2 hours ago, OldRoller said:

Yes, a 'cherry picker' hoist is nice, but don't get a cheap one! The HF 'Pittsburgh' has a short lifting arm, and the legs are too short and close together to work around a engine stand or the front end of a car. Be careful of pinch points on any lifting device and rig it correctly. Rant over....

Cheers!

 

I dislike my HF cherry picker ALOT.  If someone has a decent alternative, please let me know.

This is so cool.  Congratulations.  Hope you enjoy it for decades to come.

Hi Joseph,

This section is for the 2002ti.  The 2002 and 2002tii are similar enough with each other they share the general 02 discussion section above.

However, to answer your question, all the information pertaining to wheel fitment (diameter, offsets, etc) on the 02 applies to 02tii as well.  Here’s the huge “stance” thread, lots of great ideas.

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/71097-the-stance-thread/page/93/

Oof those are pretty.  What are the widths and offset?

On 11/26/2023 at 10:35 PM, Lucky 7 said:

I got an extremely satisfying proof of concept by installing my hand made sun visors. I had pulled my hair out trying to figure out how to get them close to stock looking while also matching my perf alcantara headliner.  I built them over a year ago and they’ve just been sitting on my desk waiting for the car. Since I got the headliner and glass in, it was time. 

Closed cell foam over everything:

 

Love the perforated headliner.  Very well done.  Mind sharing your source on the closed cell foam?  I'd like to add some in over the winter.

Test fit the linkage in the car.  In order to adapt the Lokar throttle cable to the Redline under-carb throttle crank assembly I had to do the following.

1) Drill/tap the redline bracket to accept the lokar threaded cable sheath (5/16 x 24)

2) Make cable barrel stop.  (set screw is M4x0.7)

3) File the redline plastic cam to accept the new barrel stop.

It's funny how I could screw up something so simple so many times.  It took four attempts to make the barrel stop.  Broke bits, broke taps, misaligned holes, etc.  Not my finest moment, very humbling.  For the stop(s), I used the shank from M8 bolt(s).

Now it's done though.  Surprised how short the cable ended up.  Once the motor is running and everything perfect, I'll pull the cable out and silver solder the cable in the barrel.

Upon test fitting, I also found that the booster hose running to the vacuum manifold needed a 90deg. elbow.  So I swapped that onto the manifold (you can see it in the photo above).  With the booster flipped the hose routing is now kept underneath the carbs.  Never liked how the original routing spoiled the view of the carbs.

Looking forward to finishing final exams in a couple of weeks.  Should be able to get a lot done over winter break!

320i master cylinder on tii booster

with resivour.

if you opt to keep the stock resivour, you’ll need to swap the grommets from the tii master cylinder onto the e21 master.

beat of luck, you’re headed in the right direction.

Very cool.  You'll find a lot of design similarities between the 02 and 510.  Rumor was that Nissan/Datsun had a 1600/2002 on hand when designing the 510.

You'll also find plenty of us are also cross overs from the import world.  My first project in high school 2002-2005ish was SR-swapping an 89 240sx.

Best of luck, you have got quite the car on your hands.  Glad to hear you're up for some tasteful hotrod bits.  These cars love to be tinkered with.  I know Eurasia Automotive know their way around older bimmers if you need a little shop help.  The owner and his son have had E30's/02's and are enthusiasts.

Epoxy primer, seam sealer, followed by Schutz w/ mixed in body color (not factory mild, but a little spicier).

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/116731-m20-triple-weber-build-x2/page/12/

The last head casting run was in '88 (prior to that run, there was the 1984 run).  I once had a factory new engine with that date on the head.  When BMW still had heads in the pipeline (I recall ordering one in 2014ish, and asked about quantity left in BMWNA and BMW Europe [my contact said less than five left]) they were also cast as '88.  Never checked the block date.

Possibly some stuff done later via Walloth/Nesch but that's beyond what I'm familiar with.

On 11/5/2023 at 10:28 AM, stephers said:

I am about to put together a 4.1 to 1 motorsport ring and pinion with a Quaife diff.   What ring gear bolys are you using or going to use?

 

Thanks, Rick

Rick, there are more than one version of OE bolt.  Try to find the OE bolt with the serrated under head.  I've found it to hold in place better than the smooth bottom.

8 minutes ago, Fortlauderdalian said:

Stripping off the undercoating is fun fun, 

SO fun.  My least favorite job on the 02 (at least tied with rust repair).  At least you're not on your back.

I'll take my freedom flathead screwdriver any day.

On 11/2/2023 at 7:27 PM, cdbeemin said:

Well, I went and done did it… bought me a stablemate for the ‘74 off of BAT! ‘72 project car, with good solid bones, even if there are many areas of refurbishment to come. This will be my first big retirement project. Pics to follow after I pick it up on Saturday. I’m sooooooo excited! A new roundie!

As Ken said, great buy.  Glad to see it go to a fellow FAQ'r.  Not going to lie, was trying to find an excuse to get it myself.

1 hour ago, tzei said:

Nicely done!

 

I did mine with Cobra alarm & E30 central locking unit + actuators. Locks trunk lid too

Have you posted a tutorial of this somewhere, as was done here by @Lucky 7?

Great write up.  Mind if it's made into a tech article?

Just realized I was referencing a different bushing.  I was referring to the spot where the threaded rod and guide washer interface.

@Furry Camel isn't wrong on this.

While yes, the roller and worm gear are important, they are less likely to have wear than the bushing in the top is.  However, moderate wear in that top bushing will be less catastrophic than a pitted roller/worm (which is DOA).  

Out of the dozens of steering boxes I've gone through, the worm/roller are good to use about 80%-ish of the time (California based, so those figures might differ in other climates).  The top bushing shows at least some wear in the majority of the boxes, but more often than not, it is at least usable as is.

Hi J,

Welcome to the FAQ.  Good on you for helping your relative out.

To be blunt, pricing could be $3,000 to $30,000 depending on condition of the car.  The right aftermarket seats won't detract value, given how bad the stock seats were for spirited driving (*huge caveat being "right", ie something that appears period/classy/sporty).  A seat that appears visually jarring will negatively affect the potential value.

The rebuilt title may/may-not have a bit of an effect, but a thorough PPI by a knowledgeable shop (or select FAQ members) will largely mitigate that.

If you'd like us to narrow the price window, we'd need photos of the outside, inside, trunk, lower rockers (the areas just behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels), and a couple from underneath.

Please also note that the 02 market (and mid-range classic car market in general) is experiencing a cooling trend.