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Furry Camel

Solex
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  1. I appreciate the input. My pipe bender (he hates that) already knows that I kind of want that support added. I need a brake light switch somehow mounted too, so hopefully at the same time as the support is added, I can integrate a mount for the switch. It's amazing how many little tasks are involved in building a car using stuff that wasn't there originally. I'd say a thousand, but that sounds too low.
  2. The photos I got today from the paint shop brought miles of smiles. Tomorrow the satin black trunk and hood will be done, and it is supposed to be finished by Saturday. I got all the vintage stickers laid out already, that will be fun...hopefully.
  3. I used thick walled pipe hoping that it would be sturdy, but I have the same concern. The only way to know it to put it into service and see if it moves at all. If it gives me any movement, the fix I suppose is to run another bar forward and across the firewall, which I’m considering anyway, with a strut joining the vertical bar to it. The additional cross bar would be very helpful to keep the engine out of my lap in the case of an intense front end collision.
  4. I felt like I needed something beyond the original pedal box to handle all the fury that will be occurring down south, so I built a hanging pedal box to house a Wilwood setup. This is the rough draft, the finished housing is the second picture.
  5. I really like the vintage look of the incredibly lite Circle wheels I have as backups. Panasport for the win (optimism)!
  6. The trunk lid and doors had their issues; plenty of old filler and creases. I'm so glad those issues are gone.
  7. I know shells that have gone to the shop for body and paint that have taken a year or more to hear about any progress. My Santa Ana guys are true bosses when it comes to getting stuff done. Two months after I dropped it off, I got pictures of the body before it goes to paint in a few days. The rear panel was pretty wonky when I got it, the bulges beneath the rear plate were hammered (or attempted) flat, but left just lumpy. I just told them to blend them in as best as they could, because race car.
  8. I can install the fenders and get them close, but I need the professionals for do the blending and to skim coat and block the body to be ready for paint. I'm not going to divulge the color scheme yet, since people have too strong of opinions on the subject. Let's just say it will be a tasteful OEM period correct color with an Alpina Works car livery (not orange).
  9. Some of the pictures I'm posting were taken midway between getting the task done, so bear that in mind... I should have taken a picture before putting the floor in to show the frame for the fuel cell (for those interested in that kind of thing). There are lots of things to consider, like whether to keep the original gas filler location, where to position the cell, be it centered or pushed to the right like original. Even the installed height of the cell. Lots of people chimed in, in the end I chose to play with the weight distribution more in the cabin than the trunk.
  10. The idea is to fabricate brackets on either side of the shock rod opening to fit Heim joints that will be mated to the Bilsteins. I'll post progress of this stuff once I get to it.
  11. Honestly it’s not that hard, but the first time doing it can be daunting. Trust me when I say to have a replacement guibo ready before taking anything apart. It will save you from getting really frustrated when you put it all back together. Don’t forget to take the metal band off the new guibo after installing it too.
  12. I don't know what this E12 reference is to, except that if you're speaking of the E12 chassis car, they never came with a starter smaller or lighter than what came in a 2002. The small case starter that people want started in the S14 (1.4kw), and improved with the M30 based B35/S38 engines in the E34&E32 (1.7kw). Any starter listed for a '89-94 M30 based car is the ticket. Be certain that it is for an M30 though. The same starter was used in the same era M20 based cars, but used a finer toothed gear and isn't compatible. The only thing for an E12 that is good in a 2002 is the alternator.
  13. Just to be clear, by removing the nuts from the guibo, it will not let the driveshaft just fall away. You have to remove the center support nuts first, then the guibo nuts. Understand that in most cases, the rubber guibo will expand once you take the driveshaft off so you will either need to replace the guibo or get a large enough band clamp to compress the guibo so you can get the bolts to line up with the flanges. Once you disconnect the drive shaft, you can support the rear of the trans with a floor jack(if you're working on the ground) and remove the rear trans crossmember nuts to let the rear of the trans drop a few inches to gain a little more working room. With this done, you can reach the knuckle pretty easily, along with the 8mm allen bolts up front.
  14. Sold for the asking price, no haggling, no low-balling. How refreshing. Congrats, I know it will be in good hands.
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