AceAndrew

I'm a late-nineties anime fan (feel old enough to admit it now, but young enough to be made fun of by many my senior here).

Always loved this cartoon illustration of the 02.

I do not have experience with the MVP control arms yet, so I can't make any relevant comments regarding their fitment. 

However, talking to multiple suppliers dealing directly with MVP, I do know that they are surprisingly proactive in fixing/updating issues (much more than BMW is with their OEM reproductions).  Therefore, if there is a relevant issue regarding their fitment, I would not characterize said part as eternally deficient.  It will likely be fixed/updated at the next production run. 

**Edit: If you were looking for the older posts talking about the control arm bushing fitment, there are at least three I can think of, but do not have the free time to dig up.

You're up in Ventura, but if you're down in Garden Grove in the evening, you're welcome to take measurements from my car.  Just PM me, can remove the bumper so it's easier.

On 8/27/2023 at 1:12 AM, uai said:

I have heard that if you buy the MVP control arms the dimensions are different from OE and aftermarket PU bushings won't fit.

The documented issues I've laid out have been OEM arms with new OEM bushings.

Lokar makes a circular one that does nicely.  I've seen it on a couple late cars with the clean no-console look.

15 hours ago, Tdh said:

Am I seeing that right?
 

Just curious. I’m about to start a similar project.

 

Thank you.

If you look back at pictures "file_004 and file_005" on the oldest page, you can see the extent to which the shell was blasted in those areas with the fenders removed.  Anywhere where rust was a potential concern we blasted to bare metal.  The face of the panels where no new welds were was left with coating.  It was then all primed, then coated.

Note the "corrosion" near where the frame rails are, is just from the seam welding we did on the other side.

So, generally yes, it's as you say, except there was still a lot of material removed in the wheel well where needed.

--------------------------------

John, looks like a lot of fun reassembly is getting nearer and nearer!  Congratulations.

33 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

It's been my experience that all side draft manifolds need to be port matched to the head. 

This is also my experience, Canon, Warneford, factory ti manifolds, but also the inverse.  I just consider it due diligence for a sidedraft setup (just did it to the Canon set for the rebuilds we were chatting about).  Just forget to trim the intake manifold gasket to match.

Bubble flare.

and no straight copper.  If using Cunifer/NiCopp, beware of Chinese line (lots of rebranded stuff littering Amazon).  Burst test results are all over the place. This is a part where you’ll want to use a quality USA made line.

Love Canyonlands NP, it's smaller than Zion or Arches, but a lot more accessible.  If you can stay and camp in the park, you'll be camping in the orchards which is fun.  There are some good size deer that come through.  Also, the pies they make/sell at the little store in the part are really good.   

If you get the chance, Glacier NP's "Going to the Sun" road is awesome.... then drive down through Butte (richest hill on earth) and on to Bozeman.  In Bozeman, there's The Garage and The Pickle Barrel before swinging over to BigSky and down into Yellowstone.  Autoworks in Bozeman had BMW 2002 experience at one time.

Will be following!

No, they are “correct”.
 

However, fitment issues have been thoroughly documented on here over the past couple of years, if you search you can find several similar threads.  I’ve had about a %10-%20 success rate among 8-10 pairs, solution was to use 2-piece urethane bushings which are easy to install and minimally affect NVH in those locations.

Youll find the typical response to use a threaded tool, but that doesn’t seem to make a difference in these recent (2-3 years) cases.

Both early heater valves are now sold.

thank you

Assuming that the floors, frame rails, and rockers are dry… then I’d guess $8,000-$11,000.

In another 3-4 years this is exactly the kind of project I want for my boys.

228mm or 215mm?

No. There is no bolt-on wilwood equivalent.

Jumped the shark, but far from the only ones.

Mike articulated my thoughts pretty well recently in this video…

@JesseJHJ  congrats on picking up your 2002 and welcome to the FAQ.  As Toby mentions, that swap has been extensively documented here and via people like Jake @ Classicdaily.  Many of your questions are easily answered through a little leg work on your end.

I’d also encourage you to start a blog to document your progress.  It can double as a repository for suggestions.

It appears that you are in California.  There are many of us in California with swapped cars, depending on where specifically, many of us are more than happy to help.

It’s an availability/cost thing… I concur with Nick.

Given you can use this on the later cars, just with more installation work … I highly doubt they’ll make another.

Very cool to see them make it, and looking forward to seeing them at their US distributors.

Whoever took their promo photos needs to swing the mirror arm into the right position though.

For posterity… information on oils/lubes can be resourced here.

Color me confused.

Many moons ago I did this with the IE kit on my own car, it was the first set of instructions I ever wrote at IE.  Never had a problem with reverse.  You’re literally just switching to later oem hardware.  Anyone with a square tail would have the same problem.

What Tzie is showing is the later selector rod joint, which, yes, is included in the kit.

My initial guess is that something is keeping the selector rod from fully pivoting.

- worn bushing at base of support arm could allow the back of the platform to lean down. (Same goes for the front two platform bushings).

-selector rod oriented on the wrong side.

-if you took the rear trans bolts out and put the one that is slightly shorter in the wrong location.

shoot me a pm, maybe can help video or something to sort it out.

5 hours ago, Missie said:

  My 17yo son is too, he had big plans to help me fix it up he’s working at an auto shop.  Good ending for sure. 

Arguably, this is my favorite part of the story.  If you let him join the FAQ, we’re here to help.  Plenty of us on here are dads who have helped our kids and others learn to wrench on an 02 (it’s a gateway drug to a STEM degree).

^ two sounds about right.  My total budget was around 6, and I have 1.5 ish left over.

This looks fantastic.

John, glad to hear it.  Looking forward to some color.

Bergie,  hopefully these help.  Pictures show exactly where the lines should be.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152898763@N04/albums/72157688836659335/page3

26 minutes ago, Cruzr said:

 I would say 1k-1.5k for the whole package.

Seems about right.  This is a core engine.  “ran when pulled” is nice to know but doesn’t indicate a big value bump.

Having the flywheel attached is a nice plus though.