AceAndrew

Here’s where I answered this question a couple months ago.  Please consider utilizing the search function a bit more next time.  Happy to help though.

5 minutes ago, HobieDog said:

 

 

- What is the proper routing?  My car has had a lot of hack jobs by previous owner(s) and the line currently runs down, across the drivers floor pan and then along the rocker and then it curves around and connects to the tee, from behind.  I

 

Short length is for the trans tunnel route (generally considered the early style)

Longer length is the version where it routes out to the rocker around the floor pan indent (generally considered the late style).

Yours sounds similar to how it should be given the model year, but cannot definitively say without a picture.  Either route works fine.

Reach out to Deves and Hastings.  Offer to send in a piston worth of your used set.

https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/

http://www.deves.com/

I like your trim choices.  The gauge cluster, early door panels, rear bumper, KW hood hinges, and wheels are a nice pop on the subtle grey paint color.

What driving trips are you planning?

5 hours ago, norda said:

So inaccurately describe your parts is the solution to an issue of someone complaining about inaccurately described parts. 

Simply put; under promise and over deliver.  There will always be those where it's never enough but at least you're completely in the clear.

It's been ten years or more since there has been a properly exuberant Esty post.  Didn't think I'd be on the receiving end though, haha!  No worries, colorful characters are part of what make the 2002 community not boring (on that note, I miss @c.d.iesel and his neighbor's pool)

OK... to fully articulate

The wheel was willingly priced at the shockingly high end of the market while the scratches were described as “small”.  This reality is inextricably linked to the issue at hand, to ignore this is to not fully address the problem. At least, I wouldn’t be doing conkitchen any long term favors by ignoring this.

When selling used parts in the future, I’d simply suggest you preemptively over exaggerate any flaws in the text of your responses.  Pictures are great, and so are words.

-

My worthless .02

Thanks for the chuckle.   

I must not know very much about selling parts and dealing with jilted enthusiasts.

Cracks are visible but you also overcharged by a rather large amount.

For $150 and I would be expecting a pristine wheel… regardless of pictures.

Awesome!  You’re diving in deep, welcome to the FAQ.

This is the general discussion section of the website and isn’t for build threads.

We have a “builds archive” section and a “builds blog” section that are tailored to be ideal for these threads.

Looking forward to your progress!

8 hours ago, SplitDash said:

🤣

 

 

 

Good on you!  There are too many who are too afraid to peel that back.  It's an essential part of a full proper restoration.

There are also some decent directions in the article section here on the FAQ that outlines adding relays for the headlights

Midway through 1971 there were large changes to the electrical system (as recently reiterated this was the change from the 6-fuse the 12-fuse systems).  Knowing the model year is not enough information in this case. 

I chalk it up to it being from ZF.  Most errors in the parts book are related to outsourced parts (Getrag, etc.)

Not all steering boxes had that spacer washer.  Some omitted that washer by having a taller bearing race (#5).

Yes, it was part of the model-71 changes. 

pre April 1971 had the slim 6-fuse box

post April 1971 had the 12-fuse box

There were lots of nuances in the wiring over the production years.

@pato2002 made a cool option a couple years ago.

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/203932-ultimate-relays-and-fuses-upgrade/page/2/#comments

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/entry/1896-fuse-block-upgrade/

This needs to be an ongoing thread.

OK, given you don't know the manufacturer ... 

The connection on the camber plate is typically a spherical bearing or ball joint.  If you are able to remove it (perhaps held in via a snap ring is something) then there may be size or manufacturing markings on it.  Order based on that information.

If the camber plate is "solid" meaning the bearing is not damped via rubber/urethane, then that is a pretty frequent replacement item.  Given rough non-race-track roads, the replacement interval can be even more frequent (say... a couple thousand miles or even less).

-------------------------------------------

As for diagnosing your driving issues, that could be related to many things.  There are a lot of relevant threads that could help you make a check list of things to look for.

19 hours ago, 2002iii said:

FedEx has $100 standard insurance on packages and offers more insurance for a small fee.

Some of my most frustrating experiences has been attempts to redeem insurance claims from shipping providers.

Nice to hear some good news.

Vimzo ...

Replacing just the upper strut mounts will entirely depend on your coilovers.  Here are the questions we need answers to in order to help.

1) What coilovers do you have?  Any indication on manufacturer?

2) What strut mounts do you have currently?  Are they camber plates or stock rubber mounts?

3) What is the diameter of the strut shaft where it goes through the strut mount?

** Now if you want to remove your coilovers and go back to stock front strut assemblies, then you will need a pair of complete unmodified strut assemblies.  You can place an add here on the wanted section of the forum.  However, as you likely know, shipping to SA is not cheap for heavy/big items.  (I remember shipping swaybars there was more than the cost of the $440 swaybars themselves)

Very cool.  Looks like oodles of room

haha, yeeeahh I don't think they'd want to warranty it ... but you've already come this far...

Think there are a couple chopping pictures from a couple years back on my blog.... hopefully they serve as a better visual if you want to consider it.

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/116731-m20-triple-weber-build-x2/page/8/

Also see you're in Boise.  Small world (graduated from Timberline), want to drive my 02 up your way in the next couple years.  Maybe meet up with @M3This?

3 minutes ago, ELIGILL1 said:

Yeah it’s been a whole learning thing. I’m using an e30 mishimoto radiator. I figured since it works for the engine I should try to make it work. 

You're not wrong, it's a good idea.  The radiator I show in the picture is also from the E30/E36.  However, you can take the bottom part off with a bandsaw and weld new plates on the bottom, this shortens the radiator enough for better clearance.  If you look closely the tops of the frame rails are notched as well.

52 minutes ago, ELIGILL1 said:

If I went that way, the hood will still hit the top of the radiator. I thought about going that way earlier. I don’t think it’ll work. 

Then chop the bottom of the radiator.  I'm with Mike, you could make it work this way.  Much simpler than the other option, but not as easy as just pinning it.  

In fact, I'm not entirely sure why you had to remove the uprights to begin with.  You can lean the radiator up against them.

Love the project, you have a blog yet?

45 minutes ago, M3M3M3 said:

you are not going to find a damper/spring combination that is happy on dirt, street and track.   

Took the words out of my brain.

The KW's for the 2002's are not an off-the-shelf part number.  For the states, I do batches on behalf of CoupeKing (doing another run right now).  We the vendor can spec whatever we want within reason, given they are "custom".  However, over time I have a couple setups that are pretty well suited for a couple applications we typically use and I don't like to deviate from them given the liability and associated price tag.

I would suggest going to MCS, GC, or IE if you wanted to custom spec something.  Pricing will vary.

Frankly, I don't think a 2002 is the right fit for you to begin with.  When "resale value" becomes one of your mandatory guiding principles when taking on a hotrod you've lost the point.