Anschauer

Same here. I buy cars for my children based on Insurance Inst ratings and airbags. The old car deal does not work for me unless it is a MB pre-2000

I have a Bel 365 x($365) and my son has a cheapo blister pack Bel we bought from radio shack ($65?) The 365 is a cut above but the cheapo does the job except it trips for automatic door openers, etc. basically buy one that is equal to the price of one ticket (and your resulting insurance hike). The Valentine is nice since there is no power cord. Had a passport once same thing. The advantage of the fancier models is that they have voice prompts and when I hear "K-A Band my right foot comes off the pedal instantly.

Briggs- Thanks for your reply - helpful. Have you had the car dyno'd? Noticed the alu flywheel - the one thing no one has replied to yet is whether it is worth getting the crank & flywheel balanced. Noticed you 'gas flowed' the head - this the same a porting and polishing? Some people have remarked that the head is good enough as it is but I'd like to hear back. BTW will be in Gdansk next month going to/from Kaliningrad so maybe we can have a beer.

"You wanna see a beautiful thing? Here. This is a beautiful thing." "You're right. That is a beautiful thing. But its not my thing." "Its a fugazi"

OK thanks everyone - including Delia 8)

Dubois/Bryan Thanks - very useful since the shop uses a Chief machine.

Check the board - the center textured stuff is available from various sources new and is very similar in color to the MB-tex 'tobacco'. If you're going to this trouble I'd only use new since old will just split the way all of them do like yours did.

The lr qtr panel is being cut out and replaced along with the rear panel. It's a light hit - see pic - but the drivers door is a couple of mm unhappy in comparison with the perfect pass side. The shop wants to get the factory dimensions to be 100% correct on their frame machine 1st but the factory manual only has the dims shown for the underbody which may not be complete enough. Nowadays the computer on the frame machine is fed with data but for our cars apparently nothing available. Is there any other source? CD - this is a case for your considerable talent and reference library!

I did see your post when I searched the archives. Looking at the wiring diagram, there should be no problem. The fact that you had a problem leads me to think there's another grounding issue somewhere. I can see how replacing the original with a like relay with a ground point can possibly mask another problem, because the relay itself could be providing a ground point where it clips on to the sheetmetal, but I'm just guessing. Same here - only problem with my $13 relay is that it does not make any clicking sound but who cares?

Good job and keep at it. I don't know if your folks have given you the whole "driving safety" lecture but as an old fart myself I only ask you to remember a few things which I have told my son (20) and daughter (23): Visibility : Well you sure picked the right color for sure on that account - don't change it! Our cars have no center brake light and when that was introduced years ago it was for a very good reason and has probably reduced rear end collisions a good deal. Go buy the strongest brightest LED array (cheap) you can find and put it in pronto. By now you know the '74/5/6 cars got the larger taillights and that was the reason - even so you need to get the attention of all the cellphone zombies out there before they smack you in the rear. Drive with your lights on for more visibility, just remember they are not switched to the ignition circuit so you have to turn them off when you shut down. Before you spend another nickel on appearance items check the brakes, and that means everything, reservoir, lines, pads and the rear e-brake and drums & shoes. The rears are important and do not auto or self-adjust. See the FAQ articles on how to adjust (simple) and make sure your e-brake wires are in good condition. If you don't know how long the brake fluid has been in, flush it with new and bleed the system. It is is cloudy or muddy looking it has to be renewed since the seals in the MC, Slaves and the clutch rely on clean fluid to stay in good condition. Brake fluid is cheap. This car has very nice understeer characteristics designed in - which means the car is very resistant to breaking it's rear end loose - but check your tires carefully and make sure to be careful in light rain or drizzle where the nose could break loose and skid in a tight turn that would otherwise be OK. Remember, this is a small car - strong and very safe by '70's standards, but now that half the passenger cars are SUV's and people have a lot of distractions you have to be very very aware all the time. You're a young person and you have a lot to live for so be careful. Lastly - save your money up and check with the local BMWCCA chapter or with others here on the FAQ as to where you could take a good driving/handling course. A good course will not only make you a better driver, but may save your life because while you have quick reflexes and reactions, all you need is experience.

Inka - sure lets look into your Becker E. nychart (at) hotmail dot com Might it have had the I-pod refurb: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,283419/view,next/sid,05b0ad18428f7ecc6a327f2d94bc9ceb/

Ya right about not period correct there schwartz - if it was it woulda been an 8-track! Seriously, I dont think Blaupunkt or Becker made an 8 track and thanks for the offer I'll keep looking

No, all I own is a turbo oil filter housing, the oil cooler and KKK turbo of unknown provenance. If you can find out who made it then maybe you can get the compensator off another vehicle that used them. I doubt BMW had this custom done for a short production run but thats just my (uneducated) hunch. Just wondering and happy hunting.

The door has to be 99% damage free. Dont care about glass, panel or hardware condition. The radio can be Blaupunkt Frankfurt or other period correct (Becker Mexico or Grand Prix even) and working (speakers do not matter) with correct knobs for '72-'73 Pls send pics & prices to nychart (at) hotmail dot com TIA

Do you also have the the right K-fish pump for the turbo?

Well I won't overdo it - we're using original BMW body parts which came with the car including a full left rear quarter, rear panel, fenders. I have correct period seats. There will be a new headliner in original material. The paint and stickers will correspond *altho not to the vin* as period correct, as are the wheels. It has and will maintain a Behr unit. As soon as I find the right Blaupunkt or Becker it will get that as well. The only difference will be the powder coating of the air cleaner and perhaps what I will do about the runners is have them powder coated black just for homage. Until I can score plastic runners and then I'll swap them in at some point. It will have correct period Marchal headlites and all trim (including the damn expensive trap mirrors). These were simple cars and that is what makes them fun to drive, maintain , own and restore without going into the stratosphere. Agree about the 80/20 percentages but I am not heading into the void like the fellow who did the super job on the Turbo because the object is not to be unique, just make it look like it was just delivered new.

Mac- Check your email...

Gents- gwb72tii brings up an interesting point. OK see the engine pic below. Out of all the haul in that 17' U-Haul's worth of stuff I have only come across one black plastic intake runner. When exactly did the tii switch over to the all-cast runners? Dear Mr Bittner, Thank you for your email. The BMW 2002 tii US VIN 2762570 was manufactured on August 10th, 1972 and delivered on August 16th, 1972 to the BMW importer Hoffman Motors Corp. in New York City. The original colour was Sahara, paint code 006. We hope this information is helpful for you. Yours sincerely, Andreas Harz ----------------------------------------- Available at BMW Group Classic Phone: +49 89 382 68281 Fax: +49 89 382 24765 mailto: andreas.harz@partner.bmwgroup.com URL: http://www.bmw-grouparchives.com

Hey - what do I do about my '72 Klippans? I am ready to reweb if that's what we need to do. You have my email so lemme know thanks

I intend to get my exhaust mani powder coated by these folks and will post before and after pix: http://beckerspowderhouse.com/

Penth20 - Yes I will never pass this way again so this is why It Has To Be Right. Even though the door we're waiting for is replacing an entirely rust free drivers door (for sale BTW) that door was dented when the PO had a 'helper' who let it slip off a jack. Since this car will be as true to original as possible the old door had to go since it would have meant a pull out and bondo job and never look perfect. Paul7002 - Will look into this and thanks. I may not go this route with the '72 tii but for my '76 - Makes me a little horny. Justin - I hear what you say but I also have a daily driver '76 which I will play with (someday Turbo Klone) but the tii has to look original. The suspension has to look right and aside from a full set of Eibachs that I have already had powder coated black I will use Bilsteins. BTW - what is this "upside down" stuff I keep reading about? What is that good for? Definitely the BMW School and glad to hear Monticello is opening up. Our airdale Toby is from Monticello and it's not too far from where we live in Brewster Clay - If you need a tii intake manifold I have 2 extra spares, have one and swap your 320 mani and go for it. Name your price, it's yours. Be nice to see how it works out. email me Mac in Illinois - will do with mucho gusto this pm Keep em coming please. Oh yes - I decided on Polaris 2-stage as the color for those that remember my post from January...