eurotrash

On 9/5/2020 at 4:06 PM, steve oneill said:

New to 02's but contemplating a five-speed in my currently automatic 76 2002. I read that four speeds fit just fine but five speeds need more room. Except in automatic cars where BMW had to enlarge the tunnel to fit the slushpump.

 

True??

VERY late to the commentationing here.. but yes. Auto have a larger tunnel and dont'e require 'massaging' the floor with the BFH, to fit the side mounted slave cylinder. I once was going to make a new badge for the rear of my car until I could get to paint and fill the holes.. "not-o-matic" .. never happened.

I use them for other things I do. They work well. 

That's nice.  Do you have a photo of it installed?  I would probably get it installed and situated with the sheet metal screws, and then finish it with a set of captive head studs, down through the pedal/floor and put a nut on the underside. For that clean look. 

Because Racecar.    !!

That one is actually engineered to be as equal length as possible, and the opposing cylinders attached to the respective throat of the carb.

Also, over the summer she got a dealer badge from the motherland, an ATi2 Indianapolis steering wheel like in the parts catalog (and the original Trogdor style horn button, later),  better stahl header to replace the rusted through generic piece, a little PVGP, complete with a new gorel friend, a big brother homecoming .. Oh and an old, crusty jewel tip! 

To add to the snobbery.. 

The Italian alloys at 13x5.5 with 205/60 sprint classics. Vs the e21 weaves with cheap 185/70s. 

She’s now in in full effect. ?

On 10/23/2018 at 9:02 PM, Forrest_KoogleWerks said:

 

 

Looks like your current setup has the airbox bracket supported by/tied into the strut tower brace baseplate? that's kinda a slick way to go (if it supports it well enough) ...as the brackets I've made are dimensionally identical to OE tii, but require drilling into the inner fender to install (or as OE, they can be welded & painted)

That mounting method is a design long used. Originally by Alpina, and others since.  Mine is cut from a sketch I got from a man with an original Alpina piece. Its 1/8" steel and plenty strong.  It hovers over the box over Tii booster by about 1/4".  I presume the Tii, and earlier Ti air box body mounting points are the same, but the boxes themselves are different.  The Tii is smaller in diameter.  I have both in the garage and tested the Tii brackets that hit the body on my Ti box.. no go. 

If you want a winner as a part offering, make stacks that connect Weber/Dellorto  carbs to the boots of the Ti air box.  (Can I get an Amen?!)

The original connecting stacks were for Solex carburetors, and they have a different footprint. So the stacks don't bolt to anything but Solex...  Its a bish of a solution that has been the bane of many a Ti air box owner..   And to add to the good times, if you happen to be using a IE or Korman short intake manifold, it becomes even more fun..  so two designs, one for BMW manifolds and one for the latter would be the ticket. The ID of the rubber boots is 60mm, if I remember correctly.  So a potential new part would be good for 40 or 45mm carbs.  

The 1600Ti/2002Ti stacks differ from the NK variety in that they angle up. So be aware of that.. 

7 hours ago, Forrest_KoogleWerks said:

Yes guys, I agree 100% with the “drill holes in your shock towers” thing!...oh and another update with new parts coming soon...like these “bolt-on retrofit tii (& Alpina A4s) airbox mounts

 

This I can get behind.  I'm in for a set if I can find a pair of brackets for the air box itself... 

I like where this is going.. keep it up! 

Well, the snob has been to three Vintage events in a row, and even attended the BMW CCA Foundation ICON event, where my red car resides for the better part of 2018.  Its probably the funnest car I have, or will ever own.  Its been amazingly resilient, rewarding and tough. 

The snob abides.

got a part number for those pliers?

..did you do the stock M10, or one of the Le's new hot rod motors?

test comment.

I hit these guys up regarding my audio installation parts.. never heard back. Guess I'm small beans. **shrug**

Pat!  check your messages!

It's easy man.

Cold motor. .007 feeler. 10mm open end wrench. Small Allen wrench for moving the eccentric. A rag and a pencil.

Pull valve cover. Disconnect the coil. Have someone bump the key until one of the rockers is on the very back of the cam (not on a lobe). This will net you two rockers ready for adjustment. Look around. You'll see the second one.

Adjust the first rocker. Don't torque on the eccentric too hard while adjusting, it will open the valve. Wipe the top of the first rocker dry, mark with the pencil so you know it's been adjusted. Adjust and mark the second.

Bump starter until a new, unmarked rocker is in position and repeat.