penth2o

How you doing Dan. How's things down in the big city. You deep or just city slush. Boy, things have sure changed on the FAQ since i've been gone a while eh? Been reading old threads for a while and it seems like everybodys ready to kill. Good to see yer still on the board.

Don't really know what yer looking for but this is what I found last year. I stopped and talk to the guy. The story: His friend asked him if he could store his car in the garage till he could figure out a longer storage solution as he was entering the service. After five years of trying to contact the friend and never hearing from him he drove it out to the wood line and parked it. That was seventeen or so years ago he tells me. I tell him what a shame. This was a running car and you threw it back to Mother Earth. As you can see, Mother Earth is slowly calling it back. It is sinking into the Earth. Damn woodchuck almost took my arm off while I was poking around. Guy says oh yeah she’s been living under that for years. We have watched a couple of litters grow up. He said if you want it you can have it. I laughed and said wish I would have seen it seventeen years ago before the forest grew around it. He scratched his head and said yep, I guess she’s going back to where she came from. He looks at my car and says nice car. I scratched my head and said yep that one probably looked like mine when you parked it. What a shame. nt

I think the guy getting rid of them considered them junk. He owned them in the 80’s. He knows what they are. The guy that got them will spend a couple hundred restoring them and have a nice set of wheels. Maybe the guy getting them got paid back via karma. If not and he has never done a good deed then he should swipe his card in the pump next to him the next time he gets gas & tell them have a good day. I do it all the time. It blows people's mind.

You'd think with all this whack time we northerners would have the most pristine 02's out of the crowd. Instead I'm hunting Eskimo woman & hell I don't know what Blunts hunting. Whatever he can find in -28 degrees I guess. Polar bear??? Cave woman???

The day it was given to me by my loving Sister & Brother in Law for my Birthday in July 09. 74 Tii. # 2782701 manufactured Sept. 6th, 1974 and delivered on Sept. 16th, 1974. Original colour was Malaga, paint code 021.

That's weird JG. I saw a girl driving a 71 Beetle into the hospital parking lot three days ago while I was there. You never see old cars like that around here in the snow like it was in the late 60's, 70's. We use to start it, jam & lock the snow brush on the pedal, turn on the defrost and then go in and take a shower & eat. Come out and you still had to use a cassette case to scrape the window & off you went. 2 above zero here without the windchill factor.

Couple pics so you guys don't forget what snow is. nt

Something I have lived with owning a few Z's. (notorious for Grand Canyon size cracks) I have always choosen Vaseline on every vehicle I own. Here are a few opinions. nt nt Uncracking a cracked dash You just bought a cherry [insert favorite Z-car model here], beautiful in every respect, except the dashboard has cracks in it. YOUR OPTIONS 1. Buy a new dashboard and replace it. PROS: The finished product will look great. This is definitely the best solution for quality and originality. CONS: (1) Effort. Removing and reinstalling a dashboard is a pretty big job. (2) Cost. A new dashboard might cost around $700 or even more by now. (3) Rarity. Finding a new dash may be a serious undertaking in itself. Needless to say, Nissan ain't makin' a whole lot of these any more. 2. Have your cracked dash recovered. PROS: (1) Quality. This is #2 on the list of quality and originality. In fact, it is possible, through superior products available today to those available in the '70s to get a higher-quality dash, but it is still less "original" than a genuine new part. (2) Availability. No need to search for a new part; it's already in your car! (3) Warranty: Some companies will even offer a lifetime warranty for their work! If it cracks, they will re-cover it for nothing. Also see a CON about this. CONS: (1) Effort. Still requires you to R&R the dashboard, which is a big job. (2) Cost. This can get to be pretty expensive. We've seen prices that vary, but, some even cost more than purchasing a new dash from the factory. Then again, the factory dashes may not be around that much longer. (3) Downtime. You must take the dash out of your car and deliver it to a shop to leave it for a few days or so to get this done. Your car is pretty much unusable for this time. (4) Originality: The newly covered dash will not be guaranteed to match the existing grain pattern of the original dash. Thus, it will probably look a little different. (5) Warranty: If it does crack, they will re-cover it for nothing, but, you will still have to R&R the dash yourself. 3. Replace it with a used, but uncracked dash. PROS: (1) Cost. This may be a very cost-effective solution, particularly if you need other parts as well. I once came across a parts car with a beautiful dash, three engines, four transmissions, all other drivetrain parts, etc. for $700 locally . For someone in need of a dashboard, this would be a good choice. (2) Quality. You get an original part. Watch out, because it might be ready to crack! CONS: (1) Effort. At a minimum, this requires a complete R&R of the dash, and if you go the route of the parts car you might have to do this twice. (2) Risk. This dash might be just about ready to crack! OOPS! 3. Put a "cap" on it. PROS: (1) Cost. A full-face dash cap can be had for under $100. (2) Durability. The hard-plastic cap may be less likely to crack than the original dash. (3) Ease of installation. You don't have to remove the dash to install one of these! CONS: (1) Quality. Let's be honest here. A capped dash looks pretty darned good, especially when you consider the cost, effort, and what the dash looked like before it was capped :-) However, it is not an original part. The cap is harder than the original dash and close inspection will reveal that it is a cap and not a "real" dash. (2) Risk. The appearance of a dash cap has a lot to do with the amount of care taken in installation. Done right, they look good, but a mistake may be hard to live with. Removing the cap may not be easy either. (3) Fit. Sources say Datsun may have used more than one mold for the early dashboards, and the cap may not fit properly. Unfortunately, the only way to know is to try. Odds are there won't be a problem, though. 4. Repair the cracks. PROS: (1) Cost. This is even cheaper than a cap. If you do it yourself, you might be able to get the kit and lunch at Wendy's for under $20. Under $50 (?) for a pro job. (2) Effort. This is certainly not as much trouble as R&R the dash. CONS: (1) Quality. This is a big maybe. Professionally done repairs can range from perfect to downright awful. (2) Durability. Odds are, the dash will crack again pretty soon (like a few years) in the same spot. 5. Live with it. DREAM ON, GARCON!! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Prevention Unfortunately, much of the discussion of how to prevent a dashboard from cracking has little real, scientific basis that I could find on the Z car list. There is a bit of theory, and a wealth of owner's experiences available there, but what the difinitive "right answer" is may not be possible to evaluate given the data available from the mailing list archives. Here, I will attempt to present all of the arguments and summarize the pros and cons of each solution. You will have to evaluate what you think is best on your own. Before we get into how to prevent your uncracked dash from becoming a cracked dash, it makes sense to get into exactly what makes a dashboard crack. While I'm no expert, there are some IZCC members who either are experts or were thoughtful enough to colsult experts on our behalf, and I will use their descriptions as fact here. "What causes dashboards to crack?" Tom, friend of IZCC member Carl Beck, engineer/scientist in the Aerospace industry says: "1. Ultra Violet light, depending on its wavelength, is in fact ionizing radiation. It can dissassociate and even ionize molecules. "2. If the damage to the dash parts is "cracks" it is probably from heat, (which couses outgassing or drying). If it is "powdering of the surface" it may be >from UV light. Even material with a very high absorption coefficient transmits a small amount of UV light. A very bright UV source (the sun) over a very long time can cause damage through a car window. "3. The UV from the sun is sufficiently intense and energetic to cause blindness in a fairly short time (staring directly into the sun for 10 minutes). The sunglasses are to protect the retina from UV light." So we can conclude that the cause of the dashboard cracking is [drum roll please]... THE SUN! So for an uncracked dash to stay that way, it must be protected from the sun. The other method is to undo the damage that the sun does. Since there is really no way to completely protect your dash from the sun (except, maybe to keep it in the garage during the day and only drive at night :-), then this makes sense. There is also mention on the list that dashboard cracking may be related to high temperatures inside the cabin of the car, and also may be related to rapid and/or extreme changes in interior temperature. Cover the dash when it is in the sun. This is simple and makes lots of sense. The easy and cheap way to do this is with a towel or a sheet . Custom-fit covers are available commercially if you are inclined to utilize a prettier solution, but for about the same money you can get a car cover, which is probably the best solution [plus, it will protect the paint, seats, carpets, and can discourage thieves from stealing your radio when used in conjunction with an alarm -jk]. To reduce interior temperatures, tinted windows may help but ultimately a car cover is the best bet. THE CONTROVERSY: PROTECTANTS "Protectants" refers to substances that you may apply to the dashboard to prevent it from cracking by undoing the effects of the sun (or, perhaps, by blocking UV, etc.). Most of these products tend to restore oils that are lost due to "outgassing" or "drying". Some of the items listed here are not commercial car-care or vinyl-care products, but have been reported to have the effect of keeping the dashboard looking good when applied in similar fashion to those designed for vinyl. This is a controversial topic, primarily because there are a lot of options and very little objective information available. Armor-All Probably the most widely-known and widely-used vinyl "protectant" product, Armor-All dominates the market and has been the topic of much heated debate. Opponents to Armor-All have claimed that Armor-All causes the dashboard to dry out and crack more quickly than it would have had it been left untreated due to it bringing oils in the vinyl to the top. Many IZCC members have backed up this claim with experience, mostly having to do with applying Armor-All to dashboards that, although uncracked, were old and may not have been treated with Armor-All in the past. Reports are that after applying Armor-All to an uncracked dash it cracked in a very short time (weeks). In Armor-All's defense, one member is the original owner of a 23-year-old Z and has faithfully used Armor-All and nothing else, and there are no cracks in the dash . There are also reports of an ex-Armor-All employee who alleges that the company intentionally sold the product knowing full well that it would have adverse affects on vinyl parts that it is used on. By far, the overwhelming opinion of IZCC members seems to be that it is not the best choice to keep your dash looking good long-term. This came off the archives, from a LA Times article: "Headline: 'Luster Is Off of Armor All Protectant Ad' "Content (summarized): "1. Armor All's ad campaign comparing AA to the 'other product' (Son of a Gun, but not identified by name) was deemed to be misleading by the Nat'l Advertisi Dvsn of the Better Biz Bureau. "2. AA has about 65% of the market for rubber/vinyl protectants. "3. AA has been criticized by 'some' independent car cleaning & polishing businesses, according to whom AA can harm vinyl dashboards and car tops exposed to heavy sun. However, these reports have never been validated. "4. Earlier this year, a former AA research manager, in the context of a wrongful termination suit against AA, claimed that the co. had covered up research that indicated AA caused tires & air bag covers to weaken & crack. AA denies the allegations. The suit is pending." You should draw your own conclusions. Nu-Vinyl There is brief mention of this product on the list, stating that it is non-greasy and easy to apply. No other information is available on the list. "Vaseline" "Vaseline" (petroleum jelly) seems to be the champion of the protectant wars. It is inexpensive and I could find no reports of adverse effects attributable to using petroleum jelly. There are numerous reports from IZCC members personal experience that petroleum jelly works best, and even some second-hand testimonial from professional dashboard-recoverers and other experts. Sun Screen The idea here is that if sun screen can block UV radiation when applied to your skin, then it may also have similar effects on with a dashboard. Caveats exist, however, mostly involving residue left on the dash after the sunscreen dries, etc. Using sun screen to block UV does not restore the oils in the vinyl, so it is generally advised to apply petroleum jelly or some other protectant after applying the sun screen, Baby Oil Similar to petroleum jelly, baby oil is essentially mineral oil with the addition of fragrance and sometimes talc. Expect to smell the fragrance after you apply baby oil, and you may see a talc residue if you use a brand that contains talc. "301 Protectant" or maybe "303 Protectant" Mentioned briefly, two different names may actually be the same product (??), in what sounded like a commercial, "301/303 Protectant" claims to not have the problems associated with Armor-All. How to apply these protectants 1. Clean the dashboard with a mild mixture of soap and water. 2. Apply the protectant with a soft, lint-free cloth. Be sure to cover all vinyl surfaces. 3. Wipe off any excess with another cloth. "Buffing" the dash may make it shinier, if that is a desirable effect for you.

Last week I was on morphine for 24/7 for a few days. We would have had an interesting conversation I'm sure. We will talk very soon Steve. You get any miles on that other Beamer you just got? I put a ton of miles on my new one this summer. They are totally different than anything else eh? I love it. Can't wait to get through this winter. I use to say... "I love the winter. I have to have it". I must be getting old as I was sick of this crap after two weeks and wondering why I live in Michigan. EDIT: Just re-read this thread from the start. Sorry jackhorbal in Illinois Hope you have a sense of humor. We couldn't have jacked you any harder. STEVE started it.

Hi JG. Been busy all summer and traveling a lot. Bought a few more toys and have been playing. Just got out of a week long hospital stay a couple of hours ago with something called Diverticulitis. Talk about pain... Bed ridden for five or six more days and am catching up on a weeks worth of emails and looking at all the forums I haven't been on in a while. I see all is well with all you 02 guys & Gals. I need to get out of this bed and get cranking on my Tii. I had a squealling water pump when I put it up for the winter. Gotta get a list to Steve with other parts I need while I'm at it.

I was going to say the very same thing that Bill said and beat me to it. Good one for the suggestion box JG. That's funny. Will a FLO-BEE get that grey dirt off his face also???

Kinda neat. A 67 & 68 Honda CT90 trail. 67 with 1,142 miles and 68 with 2,134. Both run excellent & have the low range gearing for the woods. Don't know why I got them but their in my garage now. Anyone have any experiences with these things? nt

I would have to say you are in very good hands over there with the fore mentioned above. I don't think you could have it better in any way.

I’m sorry but I do have to ask… Where did this little Dweeb come into play. I have been away from the FAQ for awhile now but after going through posts from the last five months or so this sorry little fuck is ridicules. I do not remember the FAQ as this. Now that I have looked at his prior posts, he has taken it upon himself to run down every and anyone’s post with no regard to whether they have 50, 40, 10 or 1 year of knowledge. This is one sorry Fuck that has no respect for what he is in for. I have not been irked like this since that last Jon (Select classics) Asshole screwed a few members on here. I see why the pro’s that I wanted to learn from have left this site years before I joined. JHC, You are one pathetic sorry fuck that must live in your Parents basement and have never been laid in your life. You probably spy through a hole in the wall while your sister bathes & whack off. You have no respect for knowledge or the passion. You really should get a job or better yet a life so you can quit fucking up threads that others are serious about. Every forum it seems have jack offs like you. The serious members then form their own mailing list that is nothing but pure content on the subject at hand. They don’t tolerate any side talk and have no off topic thread. It is only for the passion and only the hobby is questioned. All my good forums have sunk to a low. (VW,MG,Jag,Mopar... all of them) (Off the pedestal now) So all you 02 pro’s… Where is the secret pure 02 mailing list. I never thought I would be asking this of the FAQ but I guess it has come to that time. I need you guys as I will start a nut & bolt resto soon. My car is in great shape now but I'm planning for down the road. I’m sick of reading your serious threads only to come to a point where some Jack off like this interupts and sidetracks the tread into a pissing match. Sad but true. Couple quick questions: 1: Why has not the owner of this site ended this. 2: Someone must know this Dickhead & why have they allowed him to live. Thanks JHC. See you in Hell. Joel.

Yes, Definitely for real over sea’s Look at the license plate holders. Most buy them whole but, they will pull them down to strip certian parts. Not uncommon at all over there. Hell, they bury their dead in layers.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/p,731137/highlight,/sid,fe6d6a1488067302c0d7f2c98f5892a9/ Here is a start. Many more with the search function.

Roth, Sorry, I forgot to give you the link for my literature source. Scope it out as it has original dealer accessories from that time frame. Mind you each year changed and dealers could do pretty much what they wanted to and source from who they wanted to. Dealer brochures are not the Bible. http://home.earthlink.net/~jennyscott/accessories.html

Being a newbie I could be wrong but I think this was your options at that time from the dealer: Now, you could get any light from any manufacture at that time including Lucas (British) or even have gotten Hella's or Bosch which BMW did source at a time but, this is what the dealer would have sold you as an option when you purchased a car from them. These were your rear light options: I still look for the correct fogs and rear but have come to settle for these until I do find the correct ones. These are correct for 74.

Haven't heard of that one J.G. It's a wheat double bock though so you know you can't go wrong...

Hi Jim. 3 hours later since the post and it's done. Frikken Jane Fonda workout it was. I drank 2 of those energy drinks and busted a$$. Soaking wet from sweating right now so I'm cooling off by driving back & forth to pack it down with the Subie. Time to take a shower & the rest of the day off. I was going to shuffle some of the cars I have here at this location around and put away for the winter but looks like that can happen another day. I'm going to the local hole and eating wings and watching a game or something.

Jesus, In March I asked a friend to drop off some wood chips in the front yard so I can cut the dust down on the drive. 8 months later I come home to this. The tractors down so it looks like I know what I'll be doing today. (busting my arse by hand)

As I said months ago when this came up: Put your title on FAQ and a link to your Photobucket site with your parts for sale with CLEAR, Close up pics & price. Think of how clean the For Sale section would look then.