Otis

I could never sell any of my cars/trucks. And they say you can't take it with you -- but when I go, I'm taking them with me.

Vacuum leak.

Notorious for rust. I've been looking for a 2000 for a long, long time, and have never found one that did not have severe rust problems.

Do not spray POR 15 without professional respiratory equipment and a sealed spray booth, with exhaust. The stuff will get in your lungs and will kill you. Check back a few pages -- I posted the same warning there.

"Take me, take me!!!"

What is "Fresh bare metal re paint"?

Brad -- maybe (for something different) we'll bring Izzy. He doesn't run (I'll truck him in), but at least as of 12:01 am this morning, he's insured (see other thread).

Here's Izzy in present condition -- perhaps I should not have mentioned that the engine is out (and hey, I haven't installed the windshield wiper that Rimspoke gave to me, either -- no wonder they denied coverage!). But as noted above, why should I have to lie? Too honest for my own good, I guess. Hagerty seems to be building a consensus here (including some off-line comments that I received - thanks). I have two cars insured through St. Paul's (per Mike's post), and they've never asked any questions -- but then again, those cars run (well, sometimes, at least). And who knows, maybe I'll leave Izzy in this condition -- if so, I'll be gunning for that Patina Trophy at the 2007 V@V.

American Collectors Car Insurance was the culprit here. I made the exact points above with them -- what kind of insurance company refuses money on a car whose risk profile is zero? That is, what kind of insurance company analyzes an application like this -- "Let's see, the engine is out of the car, so the car won't be driven, therefore our risk of loss is nil -- thus, we'll require the applicant to put the engine back in car, so that he can drive the car, therefore increasing our risk profile (particularly in an Isetta, which would lose in a collision with a tricycle). Only then will we take his money." Yeah, that's the ticket! There are many words for this form of business -- stupid, idiotic, dumb, head-up-butt, etc. etc. etc. I'll never use that company, ever again, for anything.

John -- You really need to trademark your "Wet Wheels"!

What insurance company are you using? If a classic car company, which one? In your opinion, good, bad, indifferent? The issue came up for me today, not with Otis, but with Izzy. But the issue applies generally, so I'll post here. When I titled Izzy the Isetta, I also tagged him. I did so for two reasons. First, it's illegal in Montgomery County MD to keep an untagged car in the driveway, and although Izzy mostly stays in the garage, sometimes I roll him out to work on him, or take him for a brief test spin (and besides, I wanted to lock up the personalized license plate, before someone else claimed the name). Well, things were going along swimmingly until the bureaucrats at the MVA (Maryland Vehicle Administration) added 2+2 and saw "tag with no proof of insurance - aha, must unduly harass citizen." Whereby they sent the standard letter threatening fines, etc., unless I show proof of insurance on a Maryland Form FR-19. No problem, I think -- I call up my trusty insurance company (which insures all my other cars), and slap on some minimum amount to statisfy the bureaucrats. Big Insurance Co. shifts me over to Classic-Car Underwriter, which starts asking questions. Stupidly, I spill the beans that Izzy's engine is out of the car, being rebuilt. They immediately deny coverage, since the car doesn't run right now. Several calls later, I obtain limited coverage from the main company -- but not without a whole lot of fussin' and fightin'. So my real question is, what do most folks do during a rolling restoration? Isn't it a Catch-22 -- you need tags to do a rolling restoration, and if you have tags you need insurance, but if your car is undergoing restoration, the classic-car insurance company won't insure you. Which all seems silly. The easiest thing to do, of course, is lie -- i.e., don't tell the classic car company that the car is undergoing restoration of any sort. But that's pretty hard to do, when they require pictures (and thus see body filler, etc.). Besides, why should we have to lie? Certainly, mine is not the first car that someone had to insure, but from which the motor might be pulled at some point. So, what do you do? What do you recommend? Again, please don't advise avoiding getting plates -- this is a rolling restoration issue. Also, please don't advise doing what my neighbor does -- he keeps one set of plates for his resto projects, and just switches the plates around. I'm trying to do the right thing here -- but "the man" is fighting me.

Hi, Mike -- I assume you already have a beer-can body work story? Also, shocks were upside down.

(nt)

Liquid cooled . . .

(nt)

My 02-cents -- Keep it simple. Use one of the old Blaupunk post-mount heads; they look reasonably period-correct. Tuck an Alpine CD changer in the glove box -- they have models that are perfect fits. Use the line-level power out to an Alpine amp -- one of their smaller units, that you can tuck under the seat, or in the trunk. Upgrade the alternator. Skip the subwoofers, signal processors, crossovers, etc. - just more stuff to go wrong (and to fuse). If you want more bass, use a product called "bass shakers," which are small units that attach to the bottoms of your seats, and simulate long bass waves -- high-end theatre seats have them. Subs are nice, and all my systems feature them, but you don't need them. You can always add a powered sub box, later, if you want. Again, keep it simple. Add some MB Quart speakers; put separates (not coaxles) in the front kick panels (be careful to clear the hood release); check a few pages back for the company (in Maryland, I believe) that makes ready-fit kick panel enclosures, or make your own starting from forms from a company like roddoors.com. The rear fill (i.e., back-deck speakers) are not that important (others will debate me on this), because throwing the fader to the rear and turning up the bass is (1) only done in "That 70's Show" or in a "Dazed and Confused" style muscle car, and (2) exactly what you don't want to do for good sound -- what you want is a properly imaged system that makes it sound like the singer is singing from right under the rear-view mirror. And above all, don't cut up your car. That's so unnecessary, and simply stated, the wrong way to do things. And remember -- fuse the crap out of everything!

Curtis, I just emailed Allen Patterson at Korman's, who replied immediately: "We can't go out of business, we have too many cars to finish!"

Guess I should add my 02-cents here, since Otis' "transistor radio" is rather well-known. Key features: 3 Precision Power ("PPI") water-cooled amps (one each for fronts, rear fills, and subs) MB-Quart 3-ways, front and back Blaupunk period-correct (post-shaft mount) head unit Alpine 10-disk CD changer PPI PAR 225 crossover and PAR 322 effects processor Dual Optima batteries Custom-built cooling system 3 8-inch JL Subs in custom-built enclosure Street Wires dual-output alternator Three power capacitors (isolated to each amp) Custom-built dual-point alternator bracket (essential!) Street Wires distribution and fuse blocks 1-0 gauge wiring (wherever possible) Dynamat everywhere Custom plexiglass enclosures, and fiberglass speaker mounts in kick panels and rear deck -- no cutting allowed!! Upgraded suspension (to handle the extra weight in the trunk) I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things. Like the miniture radiator in the trunk, with the draw-through fan, for the cooling system. And other things (the more I look, the more I find). Concerning equipment, I would not recommend going with PPI. In its day, PPI was "the bomb." These days, the company changed hands, and the new company is not very customer-friendly (the tech-line guy is an idiot). Some of the components that I used, for example, are no longer available (the PAR units), so when an internal fuse goes, you're SOL. Also, you might not need a CD changer these days -- some decks will load multiple CDs into the head unit itself. Saves you space, and the extra hook up, fuse, etc. Street Wires also went through some hard times and ownership changes; in my E-30, I finally gave up on them and just custom-milled all the distribution blocks. On the other hand, JL Audio still is (in my book) hands down the best speaker maker (and still has techs who answer the phone and know what they're talking about). Also, I agree with the comment above, concerning MacIntosh -- looks great, sounds great. It's just a bit tough to find a place that sells it (and will service it). I had a lot of fun designing and installing the system in Otis. Some purist at the V@V was sitting around in the food area, not knowing that Patti and I were at the next table -- and started ripping into Otis' stereo as "excessive" and "overkill." Well, KMA, and so what? If I drop in a twin turbo, or an M-engine in a car, is that "overkill" or "excessive"? Or is it simply indicative of someone who loves their car, and wants to do something different -- something that no one else has? Some people focus on the engine, some on the trunk -- what's the big deal? I enjoy listening to Gov't Mule, and Storm Large and the Balls (Ladylike -- killer tune) on Otis' system -- and I flat-out simply love the way it turned out. Besides, technically, Otis is Patti's car, and she loves the system. Anyway, Otis was the 7th system that I have done (the E-30 was the 8th, and it's even better). And in the grand scheme of the car-stereo world, Otis' system is rather mild -- no motorized racks, no fish tanks (yes, someone did a fish tank on a Dodge Ram), no neon lighting, no SP meters, no TV's -- just good, clean, clear, crisp sound through some high-end components. And not every vehicle that I own, has an over-the-top stereo. Hector the Monster Truck has a period-correct (1978-era) AM radio, which we restored. In it's own way, that's cool, also. So, whatever you do, I recommend (1) careful planning, (2) upgrading the electrical system, (3) soundproofing, (4) no cutting, (5) pay attention to speaker staging and imaging, and (6) fuse the crap out of everything. And above all else, do something different -- with tons of attention to detail.

What to do . . . well -- You don't need a car if you stay downtown. Cable cars and the old street cars, plus Bart and the Muni, will get you anywhere. Plus, you get more out of the city by walking around. Oakland -- not all that fond of Oakland. Spend more time in SF. Saturday morning - the Farmer's Market at the Old Ferry Building, for fresh eats (lots of vendors). Also, Red's Java Hut, right down the street, is a great place. Tons of atmosphere (all grungy). See if the Giants are in town, and go to a game at SBC park. Not a bad seat in the house. Try to get seats down the first base - right field side, so that you can yell at Barry Bonds. The Muni rail will take you right to the ballpark. North Beach restaurants -- lots of choices, can't really go wrong. Just follow your nose. Stay out of the Tenderloin. You'll get mugged (or worse). Also, beware the strip bars in the strip above North Beach. Lots of undercover cops, and lots of hygenically questionable things in and around there. You wouldn't want one of your body parts to fall off a few months from now. City Lights Book Store -- lots of history, revolution central. Buy a copy of The Anarchist's Cookbook. Just because. Haight-Ashbury -- just because it's historic (although it's overrun by chain stores now). If you have wheels, drive down south to Monterrey, and take in the 17-mile road around Carmel Bay. Awe-inspiring real estate. Go to Clint Eastwood's bar for a nightcap. On the way down or back, check out the ocean-front amusement park in Santa Cruz. The drive further south, down through Big Sur, also is worth it. Bike the Bay Bridge (you can rent the bikes along the Embarcaderro). Drive to Napa, like all the other tour bus tourists and Sideways wannabes -- but you have to do it at least once. The wineries and tasting rooms are friendlier, less crowded, and have FREE tastings in the Monterrey area. Sausilito -- cool place. You can reach it by ferry. If you golf, play the Presidio. Or, play Lincoln Park -- a really, really crappy golf course, but the view from the 17th hole is worth enduring all the other crappy holes. (Best view of the Bay Bridge, from anywhere). Swimming is dangerous in the Bay Area. The water is freezing, the currents are strong, and the sharks are out in force. There is a reason no one is on the beach, and no one in the water -- people die swimming there. Also, gangs hang out at the main beach off PHC. You'll see their markings on the sea wall. You're better off skipping the water. That being said, there is some of the best monster-wave surfing in the world, off Half Moon Bay. Those guys are nuts!! Less extreme, China Beach is hard to find, but a cute little beach -- that's Sharon Stone's house overlooking the beach. Don't waste too much time at the pier area around the Embarcaderro -- it's a tourist area. Worth a quick look, then move on. And of course, drive down the famous Lombard Street -- once you get your car -- just because it's something that you have to do. You can walk it, also, if you don't have a car at the time. Most of all, have fun. SF is one of the world's truly great cities.

I just bought a set from Cocomats. Fantastic product; nice guys; timely customer service; perfect fit. No logo, however (I didn't ask), but call up and talk to the guy -- maybe he can set you up. Warning -- don't leave your Cocomats sitting out overnight around the kitties. Cat-scratch fever, you know.

Time to buy a new Dwell-Tach meter -- dropped the old POS too many times, and it finally took its last plunge this weekend, off of Hector's fender (amazing into how many pieces, cheap plastic shatters). Brand suggestions? I'd like a good one this time; tired of crappy tools. What's the "Snap On" of Dwell Tachs -- how about, for example, Snap-On's own model?

It's nice, but for that price, I could have three Vixens (well, maybe two and a half).

I had your exact problem, with Otis, who runs dual Webers. I changed all of the electrical, rewired everything, new plugs, wires, coil, points, "the works." I even re-routed the fuel lines to avoid vapor lock, etc. etc. etc. -- and further etc. And the mechanical fuel pump seemed fine; I even installed an in-line guage. But, the problem continued; "he no start." Only after switching to an electric fuel pump, did the problem go away. Thursty guys, those Webers. If you go this route, make sure you fuse and put a relay on the fuel pump -- search a few pages back, I think someone posted the wiring diagram.

What's your (non-tii, I assume) carb setup, and are you running a manual or electric fuel pump?

I agree with the foregoing comments (especially regarding gas and fresh paint). Otis is a very bad little boy at feeding time -- it would be faster to hand-feed him with a tea spoon, than to use the pump. Sometimes I just send him to his room without supper, until he decides that he will open up his "wittle hanger" and let the gas fly on in for a landing. And on more than one occasion, an outing with Otis has been spoiled by an "Otis upchuck" -- the gas goes in, but Otis spits up (all over my pants), meaning either I return home and change, or else we spend the day driving around smelling like the Exxon refinery. Whomever designed the filler tube on the 71 should be flogged.