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DanOKC

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  1. DanOKC
    Do a search for trunk lock or unlock or similar, this has been covered before.
  2. DanOKC
    Michelin MX comes to mind, I can't remember for sure if it was MX, or ZX, something like that. But I thought they were 175SR13 or something a little less than 185/70 which is the best all around 13" size for daily drivers/city traffic type driving. The orange factory manual that most folks lost from the glovebox, long ago shows the tire spec.
  3. DanOKC
    Don't know about the 320i shroud fit, but I have had frigiking AC's on 02's & I don't think either had a fan in front of the condensor, & all the Behr AC equipped 02's have a condensor fan. I think a condensor fan may help more for sitting in traffic where you are idling the motor, if you don't already have one.
  4. DanOKC
    Just an idea, try swapping the check valve for another. I bet its the check valve or the booster. I had a booster problem but it was minor leak caused rough idle. I thought my booster was OK til I swapped in another good used one from a car I knew had no idle or brake probs, then my brakes were felt %50 stronger, & of course the idle problem left. With my car I tested the booster I was installing before by simply attaching the booster hose to the replacement booster, while holding my hand over the opening to temporarily seal it. I could note a difference between the 2, even with my fingers not making a perfect seal, I'm talking smoother idle of the motor as a measure of the leaking booster compared to the non leaking replacement one I was about to install. HTH, car looks sweet.
  5. DanOKC
    Find a bench grinder
  6. DanOKC
    Yes, there are differences in the depth of the metal cup it all sits into, I don't remember the exact measurements I found, but they differ in depth by about 1/4". So if you pull the shifter out of one 02 & it doesn't fit the other, it's the depth of that metal cup, most likely. I'm guessing there are only 2 versions in the US of this shifter platform, 1 early, 1 later, I'm not sure when they switched. So you'll have to swap or modify or add/delete something to make it work.
  7. DanOKC
    Ditto on what F1Reverb said, screw the wurth products, and I'd add you don't need deoxit for every connection, but it is the best at removing oxidation. I'd use denatured alchohol 1st, dexoit 2nd, but only if it needed it. Scraping with a tool or metal or fiberglass brush can remove a lot of oxidation first before using chemical cleaners & those fiberglass brushes are great, I use these at work, but they can leave little bristle dust you can get in your fingertips if your not careful.
  8. DanOKC
    Mesa performance in CA has a kit with everything to replace all hoses & compressor with newer rotary type, including all new hoses, so if your AC console looks good, just replace everything else, if not used behr center consoles in good condition go up for sale here freqently. You can also just buy new hoses, dryer, & compressor from any auto AC supply house, if you have a york compressor, you need the adapter plate/kit for york to sanden about $55. If you want to blow more money into it than basic get it going/rebuilt, replace the fan & condensor also & find a parallel flow condensor, instead of the original serpentine type, you have to cut metal under the hood likely to make one fit, but they are an improvement over the originals, about $ 100. Also find a very good independant auto AC repair shop willing to replace the system, if you don't have the experience to put it all together & charge it.
  9. DanOKC
    Yea, vaccum loss when you operate the brakes via the booster, makes the idle jump up or be rough.
  10. DanOKC
    Don't forget strut bearings.
  11. DanOKC
    No other hidden bolts booster only has 2 bolts for the master cylinder on front, 4 on back. There is a clip however, that you have to remove, pops off easy with a screwdriver, just be sure to take bailing wire or one or two strands from 14 to 18 guage piece of wire & thread through the clip so you don't drop it when it comes loose. That is the brake pedal linkage that comes up behind the booster where the clip is. then remove the pin that connects the linkage after the clip is removed from the pin.
  12. DanOKC
    Don't know if yours is tii booster or regular, I just swapped a regular booster recently, only 1 of the 4 nuts was a little hard to reach, bottom side towards fender. Not that bad really.
  13. DanOKC
    The t2 is short for time delay, same as slo blow, 2 amp & 250V is for 250volt A 32 volt or 120 or 250 volt, fuse will all work the same here, as long as you have a 2 amp time delay. & for that matter, if it's just an old car radio, a 3 amp to 5 amp fast blow fuse should work fine, if you can't find the slo blo type easily.
  14. DanOKC
    I think that's the only way, remove ign cylinder & use screwdriver to turn it.
  15. DanOKC
    I thought the cabriolet cars had an extra square or rectangle shaped channel piece like that didn't they ? or did they have different design rockers ? Sounds like a good idea to me to add a little reinforcement inside the rocker area, why not ?
  16. DanOKC
    Condensor hose to In port, out port small hose to expansion valve next to evaporator inside car.
  17. DanOKC
    I'm not sure, are you talking about receiver dryer under the hood w/AC lines to & from it ? If so, it has short line from bottom of condensor up front to it, then other side is smaller of 2 hoses going to firewall inside the car.
  18. DanOKC
    In between the 2 screws that mount it to the carb body, there is a small hole with a brass orifice with surrounding tiny o ring, that is where the vaccum comes from. It pulls a vaccum from primary barrel or secondary somewhere. You could take carb cleaner & blast the nozzle through there if you want to see if you can see where it comes out, I had mine apart today & couldn't see for sure, but it was near the bottom of the barrel on secondary side.
  19. DanOKC
    I'd differ here a little, I've been able to test mine on driveway, but you gotta punch the throttle suddenly to WOT, then hold it. If it is working, it will pull the secondary open at least some. You have 2 possible issues to isolate then diagnose. 1. The linkage for the secondary may be sticking, this is easy, Oil, WD 40, carb cleaner, etc.. 2. Your dashpot (vac diaphragm that opens secondary) is not working. #1 you just hold throttle open with car off, see if secondary flops open easy with your thumb on back side of carb & springs back. # 2, pop the circlip off the arm coming from bottom of dashpot where it connects to the secondary shaft/linkage (have another clip for when you drop this one & can't find it, or in a pinch, piece of bailing wire) then let if just hang there. Start the car, rev it up over 4K & see if the dashpot arm moves, if it doesn't, your dashpot is no good, or the little port to it is clogged ( blast carb cleaner down it), or the o ring is not there or leaking/old, or there is a major vac leak. there is a small brass orifice where that o ring is, I can't remember for sure, but there is a specific point to be set it at, like screwed in all the way, or it is supposed to allow for adjustment of some kind. As for the loose hose, if you feel vac on it with your finger, get another of the little caps & pull the hose & cap it.
  20. DanOKC
    Your mechanic will probably find a torn rubber diaphragm inside the part (second vac diaphragm) just to the right of the secondary outside on top of the carb. That part is still available about $90 ish from maximillian, or the dealer, but no one is gonna stock it. The small tiny o ring between it & carb is NLA last time i checked, but you can find one to fit. Then you need some small plastic washers, about 1/4" outside diameter, 89 cents for pack of 10, from home depot & cut em to slip on the shaft of that emerges from bottom of the vac diaphragm to fine tune the point it opens, or how quick. The haynes manual has the setup info for that carb. It's real easy part to replace, 2 screws & a circlip. No need to remove the top of the carb.
  21. DanOKC
    You must be getting the 10 ohm reading because the sender still has the wire from the guage attached, & there is a small current flowing from the guage, & makes for a false reading. So don't use an ohm meter to try to read "ohms" with power appliied, different DVM's will read different, it's not the right way to check resistance, in circuit or with power appiled, unless you can account for all the variables. Try this, just read the ohms reading of the sender to the body of the sender itself cold, then check it hot, to see if it changes. If it doesn't change, it's likely you have a defective or damaged sender.
  22. DanOKC
    If it has a small tear or small hole, a little silicone will make for a good temporary repair to get it working til you get a new one. I don't think you will find a new one on the shelf, and last I checked, it was $90 or more for that. You get the whole part, not just the rubber diaphragm. That solex should still be OK for day to day driving, even if that secondary doesn't open, except for loss of performance in extended full throttle, which is about only time that secondary is gonna open anyway.
  23. DanOKC
    Agreed, I've never pulled a crossmember to change a flex disc. Most but not all 17 mm wrench, open end type will fit in there on front side of the crossmember.
  24. DanOKC
    Most of the york brackets have a tab around the front into the front cover/water pump with 2 bolts. your problem may be they are loose since you installed your AC, you may have not got them tight enough upon reinstallation, & water seeps out there sometimes.
  25. DanOKC
    I've got a snap on compressor borrowed from my brother, scissor design just like that one above, works great with impact wrench, he'll never get it back.
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