DanOKC

Will 2002 later style steel wheels, fit without problems on an 84 318i ?

That's one of two styles of FrigiKing, with radio on bottom, vs. radio on top, Clardy's have the blower motor sticking out on right side into passenger footwell area.

All the wiring diagrams show 4 wire, but I know it's got 5, It has 2 speed motor, so you have 3 wires for that, ground, high & low wires, or common 12 V & high & low ground return. It also has a switch to cut off the wiper motor when it returns to rest position, that is internally wired into the motor somehow. Use a DVM & unplug the harness to the motor, measure for continuity to ground, one of the 5 wires, black likely is ground, I think Brown is 12 V.

After a search or two, I realized I'm not the first person to have bad dealings with 324tds, aka Kyle Stanley from California. I've only got $40 out of pocket via paypal. I asked him for a refund after no parts have arrived after a few weeks, & of course no reply to that last email. His first reponse about no parts, was, Oh I forgot to check my other email, yea right ! I guess I'll start the paypal complaint now. Maybe he had a different screen name before, but he goes by 324tds. His paypal email is oceanpro55o@yahoo.com. BTW, if I search for his name 324tds, I can't get it to pull up any of his posts. Neither does search for just tds, or just 324. So is there someway we can close this guys account/username ? Makes it easy for him to screw another faq member in another 6 months if no one pays attention, because you can't find his previous posts, or posts about him.

If you don't have a cherry picker, put a block of wood across a floor jack & put it under front edge of oil pan & use that to tilt the motor angle back to make it easy to line up the tranny. Also get a helper to look at both sides of the motor/tranny gap as you line the tranny up, & make sure the side to side gap is even, & the top to bottom gap you can judge by yourself. On the backup light wires, you can make a foot long extension for that, that gives you more wire length so your less likely to pull terminals loose from the ends of wires, you can zip tie off the execss when your done. & of course don't forget to stab the clutch plate & put a dab of grease on the input shaft.

Unless you want AC vents under the glovebox, I haven't seen any aftermarket AC systems that have a center console like the 3 you have. You can get good reliable system from any of those old 3 you have, but you need new components, new lines, proper install & charge to get there.

Thanks ! I got it

I've got a relative who needs this done, I've done an E28 belt, didn't know if the honda is easy/quick job, anyone know ?

Tiny laptop, Asus EEE pc, also I had heard of something for a palm pilot, but are those still being made ?

Trying to reach you about parts transaction.

If you got it to disappear after redoing the rear cylinders, I wonder if you maybe mis adjusted the rear eccentric bolts & have drag from that. I know it was mentioned before, but it's easy to think you have them right when you have one shoe pushed to far out. If you really have the master cylinder pushing pressure after everything is warm, I'd suspect the booster itself, just because it's 30 years old. As far as the shim & the clearance, another 0.5mm over spec shouldn't be causing the problem, I've never heard of anyone buying shims for that either. Also easy maintenance for the calipers if they are sticking, grab the pistons with pliers & rotate them side to side, see if they are 'free', if not, you may have problems there too. Good boosters are hard to find used, compared to all the other parts, I'd check the front calipers out, maybe it's combination of both & you got the rears fixed, but now need to fix the fronts. A little WD-40 can help if you have sticking pistons on the calipers, & just working them back & forth with channel lock pliers, try not to rip up the rubber boots. Also how about the pedal linkage itself, make sure it's not binding. Just a few thoughts.

I'd say it's a mix of two systems, frigiking blower motor & evaporator & clardy front panel.

How it failed: Stop locking up when hot, I just got one local (sachs again) for 87.00 list 145.00, If I remember the dealer said 170 or 170 something. I think it was only about $50 or $60 last time, maybe 5 to 6 years ago. If I still have the car in 5 years & it does it again, I'll probably install electric fan & wire it off a t stat, by then it will be another $20 more for the fan clutch. This is on a low revving 528e too, screw on type. I might dissect the old one just for fun, I'm curious if it lost it's fluid or if the spring/clutch mech inside wore out.

I've only had maybe 5 years out of this fan clutch before it needs to be replaced again, I think it was a sachs brand, but it came from my local OEM import parts place. Is a new one from the dealer gonna last longer ?

Only advice I can give is make sure the bushing you have is the white teflon like material, not the black plastic one like I got from an OEM vendor one time. Also you just about have to rotate the bushing every now & then, they always wear down a flat spot, even if you lube it per factory maintenance schedule. I always buy 3, 1 to replace, then I have 2 to loose one, & still have one.

Just curious, changing ball joints on my POS ebay car, & had to check the struts to see what was in there, I was happy to see yellow, but only google search turned up in german, anyone know if P30-023 is sport or HD ? Thanks !

#4 , could be wiring issues as mentioned above, could also be as simple as a flakey bulb, one filament wire touching another, check the bulbs first, replace with 2 new ones is cheapest part to try first if you start tossing $$ at it, after checking wiring.

The fittings may not be the same, but you can swap it, just use new hoses for the behr console into the engine compartment, any AC parts house can sell you the required hoses with fittings crimped on, probably for less than $75.

I'd like one that says "EJECT"

PVC I haven't tested it yet, but a quick google search found some positive results, some solvents do make PVC soft, but gasoline does not, check this out: http://www.spudfiles.com/spudtech_archive/viewtopic.php?t=7896 I'll throw a small chunk in a glass of gas at home tonite & measure it before & after a few days soaking & do my own tests.

Buy that frostfighter grid repair kit, try it out, report back & share how it went. I don't think you can really evaluate how good it will work till it gets cold again. I've used similar conductive paint in a pen form to repair pc boards a few times, & it worked fine, but never tried it on a rear window defogger. All those lines are in parallel, so I'd wait till it gets cold, make note of which ones don't work, & try to paint one at a time, & see how it goes. You could also find a good used rear glass with defroster & swap it out, all these old cars have window seals dry out & crack often enough, so that's also an option.

Email sent !

This will probably take a year to complete, depends on if I meet & marry that rich super model, then I might write a check & have someone finish all my projects :-? I'm still in the aquiring parts stage, have all physical car parts (318 intake manifold, bypass pipe & water neck) except the trigger wheel & sensor, GM weatherpak connectors, PVC wire,& megasquirt & stim board. I'm still undecided on ignition, seems the megasquirt gods are about to release hardware that would make coil on plug & sequential injection a much simpler task than it is now, & I have some crazy desire to do both. For now, I'll at least do EDIS, if nothing else, I can't see taking the time to install a megasquirt system & not take advantage of crank triggered ignition & ditching the distributor. The cam choice is still up in the air too, I have a nice close to 300 degree regrind cam, & some stock 264 cams too. I'm thinking turbo later after the megasquirt system is running good for 6 months. I may start with the 290 something regrind cam as N/A motor, then if I go turbo, I may go back to stock cam. With fuel at 4.09 for premium, I might use a 320i 1.8 ltr block I have. So a few options yet to be decided on. Today I got my fuel sock extender made, PVC electrical conduit, cost 1.09 at hdwe store, cut the end off that's expanded to mate with another stick of conduit, walked next door to my neighbors guitar repair shop, borrowed the lathe & cut out just enough on the small end to make a tight fit. It is about 1" long. Now the gas guage will read empty when there is about 2 gallons in the tank, but I can draw gas all the way till empty. I will use MS 2, v 3.0 board, unless they release something newer before I buy.

Two green wires ending in a insulated male spade connector that becomes hot when the ignition is in the 2nd position. I think he means "hot", like 12 volts present, not to the touch hot, I almost responded to that too. & yes, check the brake fluid cap, there is a switch in the top, you may find the brake light problem there.

Red warning light is likely coincidental, if your switch behind the brake handle gets loose & moves a little, it could vibrate in & out of contact. I'll throw out 2 ideas for electric fuel pump wiring. Run a separate 14 ga wire from the battery with an inline fuse to a relay, feed the relay coil from the battery & then tap the oil feed sensor wire & use that to feed the other side of the relay coil, then at least if your motor stops, there is a saftey shut off for the pump. Only drawback is if the car sits too long & fuel in the carbs dries up, you need a switch to temporarily ground the oil sensor to start the pump, or else you have to crank it for a long time to get oil pressure up. Do you know from the source you tapped which fuse is inline ? Have you measured the voltage at the pump ? Filter is likely to flow good either direction, and the pump is gonna get warm/hot to some degree. & be sure to run wide open at daytona, or else you might get flamed for putting an electric pump on your car. I used to run the ring myself :-)