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DanOKC

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  1. DanOKC
    There was another post for a ball joint separator tool from Napa a few months back, I have the napa part # at work, am at home now. I've used all the above at times and air hammer at times. Some are easy to separate, some take forever.
  2. DanOKC
    Don't forget the obvious, fuse for ignition. Also use a DVM set to DC volts & check for 12V at + terminal of the coil with ignition switched on. If 12V is not there, check all fuses on both sides of each fuse at the fuse clip for 12V with the meter. Sometimes a fuse that looks OK, has small spot burned open or else the contacts are corroded or not making good connection on one end. That one diagram below shows fuse 5 supplies 12V for ignition switch to coil. If you have 12V at + of coil, it's gotta be points or pertronix wiring.
  3. DanOKC
    That sensor is either a switch that kicks on at a preset temp or a variable resistor that decreases in resistance as it gets hotter. You could take a DVM set to ohms function, hook it up to the 2 leads of the sensor, then put the sensor in hot water in a pan on the stove with a thermometer to check temp, to check if it is a switch type or variable resistance type. If your fan controller is designed to gradually vary speed of fan then it probably not the switch type. You would have to do the same test with a factory BMW sensor that would have the same threads to fit your rad or water neck sensor spot. The ireland rad may use standard threads & not metric, so if that's the case a GM sensor might work. Either way its' just a resistor or a switch, so it's a matter of finding one with similar readings at the same temp.
  4. DanOKC
    POS, I agree, so if I get one from Blunt or Max, I will get a one solid cast part ?
  5. DanOKC
    This is on a 83 528e, the original housing was one complete cast piece, the replacement I got from autohauz AZ, is all cast, except for the small hose outlet on the bottom, is now a press fit aluminum pipe, which came loose after first 30 minutes of operation. I'm either gonna try to tap the housing & put in a threaded brass plumbing fitting, or try to find a good used one if all new ones are made this way. The old one's surface is slightly warped and/or corroded, so even with a new cap, and seal, it tends to seep a little. Here is a link to picture of exact same one I got, says " RONAK" on it. The press fit pipe is the one poking out at the lower left. http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Thermostat-Housing-NOTE--Also-use--%282%29-07-11-9-919-228-plug-%282%29-07-11-9-963-200-seal-__11531730470_MTC_CB4144DE.aspx I'd order one from maximillon if I knew it was all one cast piece
  6. DanOKC
    I agree with all the above, only have one suggestion, this forum is run on mambo and phpBB software, as it says at the bottom of the main page. I've only played with CMS software a little bit myself, so I can't say it's an easy fix, but couldn't the "software guru" who maintains this board, add a feature that blocks access to any forum you choose ? This way, once you are logged in & select "view posts since last visit", it would filter out the forums you don't want to waste time reading. I know CMS software can be setup to limit access to certain forums, so I think it is possible. Edit: I just read the other post about this from Steve & it can't be done with this software.
  7. DanOKC
    Not really out there, just no one has reported they have done this. It's common to add in tank pump for megasquirt conversions. I have a 325i E30 pump that fits, as others have mentioned E30 pumps. The pickup point sits about 1" higher than a stock 2002 fuel sender, so you have to devise a way to extend the pickup sock, or else you may run out of fuel about 1 gallon early. The only other issue, is these are higher pressure pumps than what a carb needs, so you would have to add a fuel pressure regulator that has somewhere around 3 to 7 psi output to have it work well with a carb. I've thought of doing this till I get my megasquirt finished, just to get the pump part installed & working, then pull the regulator out when I install the megasquirt injection.
  8. DanOKC
    You need 2 tools: Hammer & small drift punch, about 1/8" flat tip type of punch. Drive the pins out with the punch & hammer. Use just the hammer to drive them back in. I have no use for anti squeak goo, Don't think it's needed, others may know something else there.
  9. DanOKC
    I wasn't gonna even read this thread, my brain said " Castrol 20/50, you know it's recommend by BMW, have used it for almost 30 years". Then I remembered a similar thread on another BMW forum & I did some googling about the zinc & other additives. From other non BMW forums, & some oil company sites spec sheets on oils, it appears the oil companies have reduced the zinc phospate & the other additives that are known to clog catalytic convertors, so the problem is our older high rpm motors had a benefit from the zinc & other stuff that is now not there or in very low amounts. I also think the 20/50 castrol is thinner than it used to be, maybe I'm wrong, but I am just going from observation. If you read a few engine builders talking about more tappet failures on V8's & other types of failures in recent years & they blame it on the oil changes, there probably is something to it. Now I gotta find the receipt for those 2 5 quarts of 20/50 GTX I just got at wal mart for 12.50 & take em back ! Time to find some valvoline racing or mobil 1.
  10. DanOKC
    Your probably right, another possiblity is small crack in the head that seals up after it gets hot, which short trips might not do.
  11. DanOKC
    Send a checkto this address: Protronics 1125 N. May Ave. Okla. City, OK. 73107 payable to Dan Valega I'll get it boxed & ready to ship monday. Thanks
  12. DanOKC
    Yea, I must have missed it, big connector measures .741 inch outside of threads, small one measures .617 in.. I forget what sizes those are, but it's standard size stuff for american auto air fittings. How about $ 25 shipped ?
  13. DanOKC
    That terminal in the middle is not really ground, you might be measuring less than 10 ohms to ground, but that would be normal for a bimetal strip. That is the small coil of metal inside there that heats up and changes shape by tightening up when it gets 12 Volts across it. Then it turns the choke butterfly from closed to open as that happens. Edit: You hook the hot wire to that center terminal, the ground connection is already being made through the carb body.
  14. DanOKC
    If it's not just bad bulbs or sockets, see if the emergency flasher button can make those lights come on, if so, it may be flakey, or the plug on the back of it may be loose, if I remember correctly, the turn signal & running light circuit goes through that switch.
  15. DanOKC
    I have a few I may unload, the rubber bit is about dry as a rock, but chrome is still intact & not bent, I think they are for 72. I know they are different for front or rear, but isn't there an early/late style ? or is there more than 2 style's ? is the rubber bit still available separately ? Thanks
  16. DanOKC
    It should be easy if you had the cable hooked up before, if you put in a new cable, you may not have enough cable inside the car. Do it by feel, but try to feel the part the back of the speedo, the part the cable plugs into, then grab the round shell that holds the cable to the speedo & should go right in. Might be easier to leave the thumb screw nuts off, then if you are close to the right spot, you may see the console push out as you push the cable into place, then you know you are at least there, You can always push the console back in place with the other hand.
  17. DanOKC
    I bought a parts car that has nice enough body that I'd rather keep and restore, I only have a bill of sale, & I'm not a mechanic by trade, so I can't file a lien on it to get the title. My local tax commission/dmv says I have to get a lawyer, get a court order to award the title in my name. It was last registered to the previous owners widow about 3 years ago. I have heard it can cost a few hundred to get a lawyer to do this, it might be worth a few hundred to me to get that title, just curios if anyone has done anything like this.
  18. DanOKC
    Sounds like your new to 2002's, from my early days as far as I can remember, most common thing to overlook, was the stinking points ! They only cost about $5, maybe more, hadn't bought any for years, since I switched to electronic ignition. But, for about $8 or $10, you can get set of feeler gauges at sears or auto store, so for less than $20, you can replace the points, set the gap to .016, and 50/50 chance your stalling motor symptom will go away. It's either that, or you have a intermittant vaccum leak, or carb issue. Installing new points is fairly easy to do, sposed to do it every 10K miles anyway. CD will come on here & use his big bad red paintbrush & marked up factory manual pictures and tell you to set your timing also, so a timing light for $30 would be the next tool you will need to keep your car in good running order. Try the points first. Forget the condensor, rotor & cap for now if $$ are tight, just get the points & feeler guage set.
  19. DanOKC
    More details of which carb you have would help too, is it single or dual barrel carb ? solex or weber ? If you are sitting in the driveway, w/parking brake on, start the car, then push on the brake pedal, does it die then ? How long have you had this car ? What have you done to it tune up/maintenance wise so far ? Have you checked points for pitting & gap for .016 ? Temporary cheap fix: raise the idle speed with the idle screw on the carb for now til you find the problem.
  20. DanOKC
    Spend your money on a cam & better exhaust, either tii manifold or headers then put a 38/38 on it if your not happy. 32/36 with a 284 or 290 cam will be way more fun than a stock cam with a 38/38. You can get regrind cams pretty cheap too.
  21. DanOKC
    I have 4 of these for sale, will take/post more pics if needed, tires are old, dry & need to be replaced. Price: Make offer
  22. DanOKC
    Here is a couple pics of the parallel flow one I installed, I did cut all the way through one of the 2 brackets under the front panel, but left the bracket there & bent it forward to make space for the new condensor, it hangs off to the drivers side by an inch or two & leaves about an inch or two of the radiator exposed on the passenger side. I left the horn attached to the bracket. I should replace those upper bracket screws with stainless. It is a thin condensor, but a bit wider than I'd like, hence the bracket cut. The fan is stock behr fan w/stock brackets.
  23. DanOKC
    After digging these out, I found the frigiking one has a busted connector, and this brings up a question, does yours have screw on fittings like the behr style on the left, or is it push on / hose clamp / barb type like the frigiking on the right ? I think I have another one somewhere that was from another frigiking, but it was black, rectangle shaped, but had screw on fittings, I just need to dig more to find it. The Behr one came off my daily driver few years ago, & I know it is OK, it was working before I upgraded everything. Fins are bent a bit on otherside, but it was not a problem.
  24. DanOKC
    Let me dig them out tonite & I'll take pics & post them, I think I have 2 good ones, but slightly different sizes, I don't think all frigikings used the exact same condensor, just like they have 2 frigiking versions or more of the console. But a condensor is a condensor, if the size is close & the fittings are the same, it should work. Probably 20 bucks shipped.
  25. DanOKC
    No, but I'll post photos of mine if you want. I think Blunt did a parallel flow on his also. Nothing special to it, other than you have to be a little creative & make new brackets to support it. I used 2 of the galvanized L shaped wood braces they sell at H depot that have holes in them for nails. I put 2 of those at the top, I forgot what I did at the bottom. Also the condensor I got needed an adaptor & o ring to revert back to the R12 type fittings I used. Any auto AC supply house sells them, it's hard to find small enough size to fit in an 02. The brace I cut, I did not cut complete off, just cut into it. The brace was near the horn on drivers side, not a hood brace, I should have said front panel brace. Purchased it from auto air of Oklahoma, since they are 2 min drive from my work. The guy looked up a bunch of em from different suppliers till we found a size I liked. Took a few days for it to come in. Some of my cars have had fans in front for condensors, some have not, so you may have to make brackets for the fan too. I kept the original Behr Fan in this one.
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