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AustrianVespaGuy

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Everything posted by AustrianVespaGuy

  1. AustrianVespaGuy
    Holy cow, thanks for all the great feedback guys! Sounds like the consensus is that I should go for it! Will keep you posted but it will be awhile before I get around to this project; I'm living in the Netherlands for the next few months so it won't be until spring before I can work on the car again. And to answer some of the curiosities, it's mostly a street car with a few autocross days a year, and in the spring it'll get a full engine rebuild too with 9.5:1 pistons, 292 cam, etc. (I'll have Korman do the machining but I'll do the rest.) In the meantime, anyone know where I can get a new 318 fuel rail? Cause mine just broke Oh and thanks for posting those great pics to show everyone what we're talking about, very nice! -Carl
  2. AustrianVespaGuy
    This idea has been nagging at me for some time. I currently run Megasqurit on a 318 plenum setup which is fine, but I although I don't think I'll go back to a carb, I really miss the lynx manifold setup! So I'm wondering if it's possible to run a single TWM throttle body on the lynx with Megasquirt injection. I've run some of the numbers and two ~45lb. injectors set up for 2 injections per cycle (either batch or bank fire) should provide the correct amount of fuel, but I'm just not sure how important of a role the injection timing will play while trying to feed 2 cylinders with one injector. One other option might be to use a 1.8i head with the 4 injector ports in the head, but I don't know how well those heads fit with 2002 blocks/pistons. Any thoughts? Thanks! -Carl
  3. AustrianVespaGuy
    Thanks C.D., I had found your driveshaft alignment procedure when searching earlier, but figured I would try and get the motor/trans situated first and then working rearwards shim the drivehshaft into alignment. Anyway, I guess I should probably get rid of the shim on the RH engine mount and solve the idler clearance problem, instead of the other way around, right? -Carl
  4. AustrianVespaGuy
    Hi everyone, I'm trying to 'clean up' my driveline from the PO installation, but I'm running into some difficulties. I think I'm running out of room between the 5-speed and the Supersprint headers. There is a ~3/8" spacer on top of the passenger-side engine mount to give the headers enough clearance over the steering idler nut. I think though, that this in turn lifts/tilts the transmission up and towards the drivers side, because the gap between the trans mounting plate (I use this one: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,354714/highlight,speed+bracket/) is too large for the height of the trans bushing and I need to use a few washers to space the rear of the transmission 'upwards' otherwise shifter support bracket is resting on the transmission mounting plate. I'll try to take a picture this evening, but my basic question is whether it will be possible to get everything lined up this way or how else do I get around the clearance problem between the headers and the steering idler? Can one safely grind the top of the idler down enough to make it all fit? Advice appreciated, thanks! -Carl
  5. AustrianVespaGuy
    The speedometer cable is the long version right? If so I'm interested! Also not far away in SC. Shoot me an email at ceichel02 at gmail if the cable is still available please. Thanks! -Carl
  6. AustrianVespaGuy
    Hi guys, I need a bit of help diagnosing which bearing in my transmission is going south. Obviously I'd prefer to just do a clutch job than open up the transmission internals, but I'd hate to do that and then not fix the problem. Here is a clear breakdown of the symptoms that *should* be enough for someone with the knowledge to figure out: - Noise is best described as 'whirrrring' from the transmission area, a bit louder and higher pitched than normal gear howl. - IS relative to engine speed, NOT vehicle speed. - ONLY occurs when there are axial forces occurring, such as under high load in 1st or 2nd gear, or in any gear during cornering under load. - NO noise during straight ahead cruising or decelerating. Does this indicate the pilot bearing, throw-out bearing, an input/layshaft bearing, or something else? Thanks for your thoughts! -Carl
  7. AustrianVespaGuy
    Interested if still available! Please email to ceichel02 at gmail, can paypal right away, thanks! -Carl (in SC)
  8. AustrianVespaGuy
    Beware Syed Alam (paypal name), took lots of my money for a Lynx manifold that never showed up nor got refunded. Don't think I'm the only person he conned either: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,316000 -Carl
  9. AustrianVespaGuy
    Hey Larry, guess what? I also bought a lynx manifold from Syed Alam on March 18th, 2008 that I never received or got refunded for. Probably got us both with the same trick. I've been emailing him (m.m.garret@gmail.com) every few weeks or so since pestering him for a refund. I've gotten a few week responses every now and then but I've pretty much lost hope. I did actually talk to him on the phone once or twice at 501-908-2080, but I think that number's dead now. Anyway that's my story, so I guess we don't suffer alone. -Carl
  10. AustrianVespaGuy
    Where are you located? If you can get your car to SC, you could probably persuade me to install Megasquirt for you for much less than a pro shop. I rather enjoyed megasquirting my own 2002 so I think I could do it again without too much hassle. -Carl
  11. AustrianVespaGuy
    After a year of troubleshooting this, I finally found the below configuration to work for me. -Carl
  12. AustrianVespaGuy
    OK, I FINALLY really got the tach working across the whole RPM band! Here's a brief history of my ordeal with this thing: Original MSQ diode circuit only got to 2000 RPM, then went dead. Added Tim's 100K resistor 'leak' around one coil diode: tach died at 2500 RPM. 100K resistor to ground after Zener caused tach needle to 'bounce' all over the place. 220K resistor to ground worked fairly well, but still bounced at low RPM. 320K resistance worked up until ~4500RPM. 100K voltage divider instead of Zener did not work at all. So just for the heck of it, I tried using TJFs 100K voltage divider AFTER the original MS circuit INCLUDING the Zener diode and now, finally, it all works properly! Seriously no idea why, but there you have it. My schematic is below, hopefully it will help some more of you. -Carl
  13. AustrianVespaGuy
    Wow, I FINALLY managed to cobble something together that works here. I had to add TJF's 100K voltage divider to the original diode circuit AFTER the Zener, so I now have the below circuit, which works over the entire rev band. -Carl
  14. AustrianVespaGuy
    Hi everybody! In order to help fund the engine rebuild on my 2002, I've decided to sell my Stella scooter. This is a 150cc 2-stroke with a 4-speed constant-mesh manual transmission (just like a classic Vespa, but newer and with a front disc brake!). If anyone might be interested, have a peek at my craigslist add here: http://greenville.craigslist.org/mcy/1957149645.html or shoot me an email at ceichel02 at gmail dot come. Thanks, and happy motoring! -Carl
  15. AustrianVespaGuy
    I'm a big fan of using the 318 intake parts for Megasquirt fuel injection (what I run on my car). Email me if you're interested in details. -Carl
  16. AustrianVespaGuy
    Clay, you don't need a scope to figure this one out, but you do need a timing light. If you don't have one, just get a cheap one from Autozone; you don't need anything fancy. Hook it up, point it at your trigger wheel, and rev the engine some. You will learn two things. 1.) If you have any misses, you'll see it because the light won't strobe cleanly/consistently, meaning a hardware issue somewhere. Check all 4 wires to know if you have a bad wire or plug somewhere, or if all 4 are bad, then a bad pickup sensor or coil. 2.) You can tell if your Megasquirt is correctly controlling the EDIS if the timing changes as you rev the engine, or if you are in EDIS limp-home mode you'll be constantly stuck @ 10deg. If everything looks fine, clean strobe and good advance, you'll then know it's a fuel issue. Though old technology, I firmly believe that timing lights are still the BEST ignition diagnostic tool available. How I found out that the crank position sensor was bad on a friends 2005 Lancer (no flash from any wire during cranking even though the coil had power). Good luck! -Carl
  17. AustrianVespaGuy
    +1 for DIY Megasquirt! What I'm running on my car and couldn't be happier. Email me and I'll be glad to answer any questions about it. ceichel02 at gmail. -Carl
  18. AustrianVespaGuy
    My 02 cents, the visual appeal is just whatever you personally like best. Mechanically though, I love the 318 manifold with Megasquirt and EDIS. It's just simplest. Tom at 02again (http://www.02again.com/) has all of the necessary adapters for the 318 and they're great. Injectors are also standard. I'll have to check out MS3 some, but it's really hard to complain much about EDIS. Again, parts are standard/available, and you can get it running in 'limp home mode' without megasquirt to make sure it's wired correctly and working, and then use MS to control it properly. The toughest part is mounting the trigger wheel, but you'd need that for MS3 too I suppose. 02 again also has the right mounting bracket for the EDIS sensor. -Carl
  19. AustrianVespaGuy
    Just in case you've messed with the ignition setup and your root cause is ignition and not dieseling, check out this thread for reasons/fixes for the ignition circuit staying alive: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,339174/highlight,/ -Carl
  20. AustrianVespaGuy
    To your first question, my guess is that your auto-choke might just need some adjustment. Did it work well when 'cold' and now that it's warmer doesn't start as well? If I remember correctly, there are three screws that hold the choke assembly and if you loosen them, you can rotate the choke to set the tension in the spring correctly. When the car is cold, if you press the gas pedal the square 'flappers' on the top of the carb should spring closed some (more in winter, less in summer) and then open up as the car warms up. As for your second sound, do you maybe have an electric fuel pump on the car? Standard advice, if you don't have one, get a Hayne's manual! Hope this helps. -Carl
  21. AustrianVespaGuy
    Ok, good luck with your hunting then Todd. The 'L' light is just one potential pathway for power to find its way back to the coil and keep the coil alive. The diode 'blocks' this path but depending on how it's wired, there is the potential for other pathways too. If you can't seem to find where the trouble lies, my final suggestion would be to simply install an additional kill switch in the wire that supplies power to the ignition system. This will a) fix your problem, can function as an emergency cut-off (like in the event your throttle gets stuck open), and c) my favorite, is an anti-theft deterrent. -Carl
  22. AustrianVespaGuy
    Bob is of course correct, no true chrome on the 2002 trim, please excuse my misuse of the word. -Carl
  23. AustrianVespaGuy
    Heck yes! What do you have? I suppose I could really use a 200er motor. . . email me sometime: ceichel02 at gmail! -Carl
  24. AustrianVespaGuy
    I suspect that you have a similar issue as with the Megasquirt EDIS I described above, however you'll need to look into how your ignition is wired to really tell, specifically how power is supplied to your ignition coil. When you turn the key off and the car runs on, trace the 12V backward from your coil to either the alternator or battery and determine where/why you still have voltage after the key is off. Along other lines, do you have high compression pistons? Any chance that your run-on is due to the car dieseling (compression-ignition) instead of the plugs continuing to fire? Just want to make sure we're hunting the correct monsters. -Carl
  25. AustrianVespaGuy
    Sorry everyone, the carb and manifold have been sold, sorry for the late response. -Carl
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