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AustrianVespaGuy

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Everything posted by AustrianVespaGuy

  1. AustrianVespaGuy
    Alright, I picked up one of the Oddessy batteries because it was on sale at batteries plus. I think I will first try just putting it in the conventional location for the time being, get my intake track setup, and then I may move it under the seat later. I'm very impressed with how small it is; I just hope one is enough to cut it but I think it will be. 16 Ah and ~250 cold cranking amps. Not huge, but I do have the 80 amp alternator and theses sealed batteries reputedly hold a charge VERY well. I'll try to post some pics and feedback once I have it installed and have tried it out. Thanks for the input everyone! -Carl
  2. AustrianVespaGuy
    I recently got a freshly rebuilt E21 2.0 head that now I don't think I will get around to using for awhile, so I'm willing to part with it if someone needs it. Looks to have new OEM valve guides and new intake valves but original exhaust valves. Currently has the stock camshaft in it and it is not drilled for a mechanical fuel pump, but it does come with the distributor housing on it. If you are interested and willing to make me a reasonable offer for it, send me an email at ceichel02 at gmail and I will reply with some pictures. -Carl
  3. AustrianVespaGuy
    A tii, a WRX, and a road bike, I think I like this revolution guy, we seem to have some common interests! My fleet is perhaps a little closer along the baseline, and includes the 2002, an Impreza TS, and my Surly commuter bike. Anyway, good job on the diagnostics; hopefully you can also return the now unneeded expensive pump/sender? Happy motoring/riding! -Carl
  4. AustrianVespaGuy
    I know this thread is old, but I recently went through this and thought I would post it here for anyone else that is looking in the future. For the 318i CLT sensor calibration, use these values: Bias resistor: 2490 ohms -15C -> 12002 ohms 30C -> 1707 ohms 100C -> 187 ohms This information here: http://wiki.diyefi.co.uk/index.php?title=BMW_E30_Megasquirt_%26_Wasted_Spark_Conversion For the bias resistor, use the value equal to whatever bias resistor you soldered to your Megasquirt board. For the v3 board, I think it's either R4 or R7, and if you just followed the instructions you probably put a 2490 ohm resistor in as instructed for use with a GM sensor, so you need to use this for your bias resistor value in the thermistor calibration. If you really paid attention when you were putting your board together, you MAY have noticed the table that tells you most Bosch sensors use a 2200 ohm resistor, so then you might have put this 2200 resistor in instead, and will need to use that as your bias resistor value. (I didn't, which is why I have 2490 in my table above). I hope this helps! -Carl
  5. AustrianVespaGuy
    Got Megasquirt (318i intake w/325is throttle body) installed and running, but I'm having trouble finding a place/way to mount the air filter. I've noticed that almost everyone else running MS has moved the battery and placed the air filter in that corner. Has anyone done this without moving the battery? If moving the battery is necessary, which is the preferred new spot for it; in the trunk or under the rear seat and where do you route the positive wire for either? I would also prefer not to remove my dipstick, as my car does use a 'regular' amount of oil. Or can you relocate the dipstick somehow? Open to suggestions at this point, so any replies appreciated, thanks! -Carl
  6. AustrianVespaGuy
    They current pistons are stock flat-tops, and you're right, I probably don't need to do anything at all, and I may not. I'm just considering it because I'll have the intake and exhaust of anyway, and I have a freshly rebuilt head ready to go. But true, it will still be just as good of a head 3 years from now also. . . -Carl
  7. AustrianVespaGuy
    http://www.2002haus.com/Specialtools.htm Does anyone have one of these that they would like to let me borrow? I'd like to try doing my own cyl. head job, but since I'll probably only do it once, I don't think I want to spend $135 on a single-use tool. Please let me know if anyone has one that they wouldn't mind parting with for a few weeks; I promise I'll return it! -Carl ceichel02 at gmail
  8. AustrianVespaGuy
    Check everything under/around your distributor cap! Does the Pertronix need a specific gap/positioning for it's pickup? Could be worn/bad contact between the rotor and the cap. Could also be a bad plug wire that is arcing through the insulation to the block. I think a worn/wobbly dizzy shaft was already mentioned. You may also want to check your timing, but my primary advice is to look at all of the simple things around the ignition system. HTH. -Carl
  9. AustrianVespaGuy
    So, I've been gearing up for my megasqurit conversion and thought I might want to do some additional things at the same time, but I'd prefer to NOT actually pull out the motor. I do have a fresh rebuilt E21 head I'm considering putting on, but here are my questions associated with that decision: Cam upgrade with the new head, maybe a 284 or 292 IE regrind? But with a new tight head and upgraded cam, wouldn't I want better sealing rings and maybe higher compression to go along with that? What about just honing the cylinder bores and putting in domed pistons with new rings? Or is that just too much work with the motor in the car without much gain? Reason I don't want to pull the motor is it is still in pretty good shape. Only ~150K or so at best guess and not (really) leaking. (Rear main replace when 5spd. installed and front main replaced when installing EDIS trigger wheel.) Plus I don't own the equipment to pull the motor on my own. What are your feelings on this, anyone care to share any thoughts? Thanks! -Carl
  10. AustrianVespaGuy
    http://www.2002haus.com/Specialtools.htm Does anyone have one of these that they would like to let me borrow? I'd like to try doing my own cyl. head job, but since I'll probably only do it once, I don't think I want to spend $135 on a single-use tool. Please let me know if anyone has one that they wouldn't mind parting with for a few weeks; I promise I'll return it! -Carl ceichel02 at gmail
  11. AustrianVespaGuy
    I think this pretty accurately describes what I'm feeling, with the rears 'skipping' a little off any bumps. I've also heard plenty of good things about Bilstein HDs, so I think I will start there. I'll also take a look at my rear subframe bushings, as I don't think I've paid them much attention yet. Do you think I should do HDs in all 4 corners at once, or just start with the rear and see how it affects things, and continue 'fine tuning' from there? BTW, thanks for all of the great responses! As usual, there's no garbage on this FAQ, just sound knowledge, and I always appreciate that! -Carl
  12. AustrianVespaGuy
    Email sent re: beltline trim. -Carl
  13. AustrianVespaGuy
    Paypal sent for 2 of option 'B.' Thanks! -Carl
  14. AustrianVespaGuy
    I'm not really well versed in the ways of suspension tuning yet, so I'm hoping to get some more experience opinions. My current 02 has several suspension components that were upgraded by the PO. It is currently set up with: H&R springs Bilstein Sports 3.91 LSD I believe both sway bars are stock, but everything has been re-bushed w/ urethane Tires are 195/60/R14 on 14" baskeweaves and the rear wheels have been spaced out on ~1cm spacers. I keep tire pressure at 32psi all around. It rides pretty low and hard but I'm OK with that, however in a hard turn, I'm worried that especially in the rear things are too hard, and the rear has a tendency to get loose and oversteer some. I don't get that feeling of the car 'squatting' on the outside rear wheel like I did in my old stock 2002. Is this maybe just me being unfamiliar with the different setup, or is the suspension truly too hard and adversely affecting cornering? If so, what would be the best place to start fixing it? Thanks for any advice! -Carl
  15. AustrianVespaGuy
    I've just finished up my front brakes and am now starting on the rears. I'd like to go up just a tad to the 17mm tii size wheel cylinders. Ireland has them, but for $50 a piece seems a bit high to me when the stock 15mm ones are available for $40/pair. Does anyone have some 17mms they are looking to get rid of? Used is ok as long as they are in good working order. Email is ceichel02 at gmail. Thanks! -Carl
  16. AustrianVespaGuy
    Ha, that makes me so happy to know there are other 2002 guys out there that also love Vespas! My Vespa ('79 P125X) was my high school project/vehicle, and then I moved up to the 2002 ('76) for my college high school vehicle. I still have them both and they keep each other company in the garage while the Subaru commuter takes me to work Let me know if your relative ever wants to off-load one of his, or also if he just needs some pointers to get started! Happy motoring! -Carl
  17. AustrianVespaGuy
    For use with this adapter from 02 Again for my megasquirt conversion: http://www.02again.com/product_info.php/products_id/156 Please email at ceichel02 at gmail if you have one available, thanks! -Carl Found one, thanks Blunt!
  18. AustrianVespaGuy
    I think I have what you're after. Send me an email so that I can reply with pics. ceichel02 at gmail. -Carl
  19. AustrianVespaGuy
    Is the wiper motor still avail. and does it run strong? Also, I'm in greenville, and am considering coming down this weekend to pick up that 5-speed. Any more details on it? Email is ceichel02 at gmail. Thanks! -Carl
  20. AustrianVespaGuy
    I have two motor mounts for sale, both drivers side: Used but good condition rubber: $20 Like New Urethane: $40 email ceichel02 at gmail if interested! -Carl
  21. AustrianVespaGuy
    I can't personally vouch for its performance, but I always thought this manifold from 02Again looks like it would be a good one: http://www.02again.com/product_info.php/products_id/153 Might be worth a phone call at least, especially since they tend to send you a great T-shirt when you order stuff from them! -Carl
  22. AustrianVespaGuy
    I'll give you full asking price + shipping if it's still available, very interested! Let me know, thanks! ceichel02@gmail.com 505-459-8669 -Carl
  23. AustrianVespaGuy
    Hey, those are some great pics, thanks for checking that for me! I still think the Porsche bungs have a good chance of fitting correctly, but it looks like either way it could be made to work. I'm just glad the spacing/angles for the fuel rail work! One other question now though. It was mentioned that the 1.8i head has a bit lower compression than the other combustion chamber geometries, so would it be possible to just have the head shaved a little bit to get back to the ~8.5 'stock' compression? Or would so much have to be removed that valve/piston and/or cam chain length issues would come up? Thanks again for all of the great help guys, the 2002 forums are the best! -Carl
  24. AustrianVespaGuy
    Wait, are you sure that the injector ports need to be 'opened?' I thought I would just need to install new bungs for the EFI injectors, such as these: http://www.bitzracing.com/products/injector_bungs/injectorbungsdetails.html It looks to me as if the CIS bungs have already been removed from this head, and that I would simply have to press these EFI bungs into the ports and be good to go; does anyone agree/disagree with this? Thanks! -Carl
  25. AustrianVespaGuy
    Interested in the cylinder head; can you send pics? Thanks! ceichel02 atgmaildotcom -Carl
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