john_a

Thanks, I was too lazy to search the area codes.. I'm in the USA, but very close to Canada. Canada is actually South of us here along our border.

If you do revisit this thread, please just tell us where in Canada this is located.

ATE Boosters have a code for their diameter that you can get from the ATE p/n. They used to have charts in their books to explain the numbers You measured 8" on the outside, but ATE specs them by the inside diameter. The standard 02 booster part number on the label can be like 03.6832-0101.4 and here is what that means. The first three digits 03.68 shows it is type T52 The next digit 03.683 shows the inside diameter, and 3 = 7 inches The tii booster can have a number like 03.6125-0300.4 The first part 03.61 means it is type T51 The next digit 03.612 where 2 = 6 inch The next digit 03.6125 where 5 = tandem unit So the tii booster is one inch smaller on the ID, but makes up the difference by being a tandem unit, which is why it has 170% the mass of the standard 02 booster (tii unit weighs 2 kg more than standard.)

Not that I'm suggesting this is the next step for your situation, but the real solution that the automotive industry went with was to use the A/C to dry the air in defrost mode. Not so simple to retrofit A/C on an old car, but it does get the job done!

I'm no fan of SFI, but most sanctioning bodies here that have to find liability insurance need to follow what SFI decrees. That said, I'm using FIA belts and suits and our rules give me a bit longer use of those FIA belts. The SFI decertification notice actually does effect the current equipment, and they have told Impact to refund any customer's purchase. If you have an SFI certified item, and the SFI tag is counterfiet (like Impact was using) then it's not valid, is it? You can't sew a new legit label on after the fact. There's little pretense that any of this is not strictly about the fees that SFI did not collect for providing the labels, but that's not gonna mean squat if the lawyers want to sue your club for an injury incident where someone was allowed to participate with fake SFI tags on their equipment. Does not matter the equipment is 100% identical & equally safe. It's the same as if you entered with an expired comp license, you might have the same exact skills, but it won't meet the legal requirement, and they'd be assuming too much risk to let it slide.

E21 USA 5.5x13 ET18 E21 ROW (rest of world) could get the same as above, or 6x13 ET 13 Can't remember offhand if the 6" width was BBS or Mahle

Cranks looks bad, I'd find another. These cranks are pretty durable unless someone goofs up the works, so there's plenty of used ones to pick from. What went wrong here is hard to tell without knowing more details, but it looks like the oil film was wiped out on those rod journals. This is sometimes seen shortly after a rebuild where someone tossed in new bearings without proper measurements. Using Plastigauge does not count, that is no substitute for measuring the big end bore of the rod to ensure it is not pinched tight across the parting line. The BMW rod is pretty stout, but the bearing bore does stretch in the thrust axis which will make tight across the parting line. The shape changes from round like O to narrow 0, and because of where the Plastigauge reads clearance, you don't find where it is too tight when the old worn bearing is replaced by a new bearing shell. New shell at full thickness in a pinched bore wipes out the oil film even though the Plastigauge showed OK clearance. Of course, there's pleanty of other things that could have gone wrong. But if you do not check the rods & recondition them as needed, this can be the result. How clean was everything going together? How was the oil pressure?

If you bought any safety equipment from Impact Racing, you might need to replace it. SFI has yanked their certs. From yesterday's press release: "Evidence shows that Impact had counterfeit SFI labels and patches made in Asia and then affixed them to Impact products it distributed to members of the racing community." WTF was Bill Simpson thinking?? http://www.sfifoundation.com/DecertificationNotice03-26-10.pdf

That sure does look good to me, wish I could work in a trip there for the near term plans! Vacation envy is what I've got..

Allright, I've apparently got early onset CRS syndrome.. Just went into my build room & looked at an E30 71 mm crank, and confirmed it does have only four counterweights, not the eight I had claimed earlier. It's in shrink wrap, so I did not check for cast lines but I'm not betting I had any of my facts straight on this one. My memory was telling me it was a bunch heavier than the early six-bolt cranks that also only had four counter weights, so I was thinking it fully counterweighted, like the 2.0L

Don't overfill the engine oil, just use the correct amount like BMW states in the owner's manual. Half a quart over is probably not going to hurt a lot, but overfilling is bad for windage, and can aerate oil. 4.25 liters = 4.50 quarts = the correct amount of oil when filter is changed (always change that filter, right?) Unless you have dented the oil pan, the engine will have the right level of oil when you add the 4.5 quarts, run the engine to warm, turn iit off & allow it to drain back into the sump. If your dipstick is off, then your dipstick is wrong & you need to make adjustment for that. When you calibrate your dipstick, you do that by adding a known amount of oil and scribe new lines, or make adjustments in the dipstick tube to have the markings match the oil, not the other way around. Hot engine oil expands, be sure you are comparing levels the same way. At work, oil drains & fills are measured by weight during engine development. A quart of oil = about 1.82 lbs, and since most of my oil changes at home are also done with product in larger containers, I use my refrigerant scale to weigh the gallon jugs. Using mass allows you to easily account for how much drains out, and you weigh the old filter, subtract the tare weight of the drain pan & dry filter. You only need to do that if you are tracking oil consumption.

All right, that confirms the visual difference I mentioned in my last reply, where I noted the rear seal bore appeared further from the oil pan. The six-bolt rear main seal is 100 mm OD vs 110 mm on the eight bolt, so the smaller seal bore IS further (5 mm ) from the bottom edge of that cover. And I was wrong when I said none of the M10 covers had that slot feature, I was thinking more about the eight bolt covers, which are a lot more common (I've got a one new spare, and plenty of used and none have the slot.) So that cut out drain slot was used on the various rear covers before and after the eight-bolt M10, but I never paid attention to it.

I could be wrong, but I don't think any eight bolt cranks were ever not fully-counterweighted. I've got several 71 mm cranks with eight bolt & all have eight counterweights. Only crank I have with half the counterweights is a six bolt. I've heard about cast cranks, but to be honest I've assumed all the M10/S14 cranks in their various strokes were forged. Don't recall seeing any telltale signs otherwise, thought the newer stuff does look neater (IIRC, the E30 S14/M10 counterweights exhibited machining, instead of being all raw.) ****edit to add remark here that I had it wrong (again) above, the late 71 mm cranks I've got only have FOUR counterweights, not eight.

Are you certain the one with the slot came from a 4 cyl M10? Looks like a rear cover from an M30 big six. They use the same rear main seal (as do a LOT of later BMW) but a slightly different gasket & cover. I've not compared the two, don't know if they are interchangeable, but none of the M10 had that drain slot. Check them over thoroughly, in the picture it almost looks like the rear main seal opening is spaced further from the oil pan on the M30 style cover.

Sure, there's a crank just like that (eight bolts, eight counterweights) in all the short stroke M10 ever since the NK & the 1600/02 stopped using six bolt flywheel. This would be the same part number used in 1802, E21 316/318 since 1975, and carried over to E30 with M10. But to your question, I don't know if or when the 1600 gained this. But it would have been the same part as BMW kept going for those other models cited. The attractive feature of the early crank was its lightweight, from having only half the counterweights. The racer's joy was tempered by the tendency for the flywheel to separate from that crank. ****edit to add remark here that I had it wrong above, the late 71 mm cranks I've got only have FOUR counterweights, not eight.

Three things in the article that made me cringe a little.. Do not use a grease gun to push out the stuck piston unless you are going to split the caliper halves & replace the small o-rings along with ALL the rubber seals. Caliper seals are not tolerant of oil or standard lube grease. If you can't get a piston out with compressed air, install it on the car & use the hydraulic pressure from the brake system (be careful the other brake lines are not open.) This is messy, but very forceful. Don't split the calipers unless you really need to, and will be able to replace every o-ring between the halves. The OE bolts are not common, and substitute bolts might not have the same elastic characteristics (12.9 may be the same hardness, but that's no guarantee the shank acts the same in the joint.) Be very careful with glass bead cleaning. All of the tiniest remaining particles of broken down glass bead have to be expunged 100% and the casting (nodular cast iron for our ATE brakes) has to be cleaned of all residue that solvents like brake cleaner will leave behind. Wash & dry till you are sure it's uncontaminated. Do not use brake caliper grease as a substitute for brake assembly fluid. Use brake fluid if you don't have the proper assembly fluid (not Syl Glide.) Caliper slide grease is not created to be miscible in brake fluid, and is not for use inside calipers. I have not had to index pistons since my NK & early 02 went away. Standard 4-piston 02 calipers don't need that.

No, your stock rods & pistons will not allow the S14 crank's stroke. You'll need to research how lengths for all these parts add up, and do some math to see what fits. 304 cam with 8:1 does not sound very promising. I'd save the 304 for when you can get a better combination together.

Yeah, I was just joking.. but if the brakes are not hot enuf, you can add a lit gun powder fuse if it's gonna make a viral video on youtube Really it was just the idea of oil & ball bearings spilling out that amused me, not that I'd think it would happen. I do like this better than those loose weights that go inside the tire.

At least in the pictures, the seats look to have excellent condition velour (?) if that's what the material is.. I had removed my late model interiors so long ago, I forgot what it was (or how it could look that good!)

That's ingenious! Glad it worked, but you know those cheap@ss snow wagon tires are the real issue. It does make me think about a cross between James Bond's 007 Aston Martin built-in weapons & a Roadrunner cartoon.. I can just see the traffic behind you sliding around as oil and ball bearings cover the road after the tube lets loose. Add a cloud of blue oil smoke when the oil hits the hot brakes & exhaust as it sprays around. Set your DVR to record the evening news stories!

Like others have suggested, disable the ignition (I'd just open the primary circuit, disconnect either end of the wire between the distributor points & coil. If you leave the primary intact and remove the rotor, there could be too much arcing inside the cap as the plunger button tries to jump to ground in that oily atmosphere.) Crank as long as you need to without ignition, you should see it under the valve cover OR measure with a good gauge. Personally, I would observe the spray bar first. You could have no reading at the gauge if the pressure was weak, you might see something like the banjo bolt loose & losing oil there. From the repair history, it would seem likely the pump lost its prime, not too unexpected. Should revive with a bit more extended crank. Otherwise, if everything was fine before, this could be a pump relief stuck open (instead of the common cold weather stuck cold problem.) Take some solace in that it is not likely the pump crapped out 100%, uness you got something stuck in the rotor, or a big glob of RTV got sucked in & presents a clog, or jumped a chain.. Good luck testing!

you can use the standard 02 reservoir, or any other that suits you. A dedicated separate clutch fluid reservoir has advantages, lets you keep the separate brake fluid jug (that you already have.) Lots of cars have clutch fluid reservoirs that are relatively compact, compared to the brake bottle. A new combo reservoir is nice too, I have a few spares from ATE because they are so simple to mount on any project with their integral mounting ears.

That's fantastic! Start up front & STAY up front all season !!

Stock fuel return valve as found on 02 & carbed (euro) E21 (Not an EGR or Air Pump valve) 2002 fuel return valve #14 below E21, same part #18 in pic below

Replacing seals on the outputs is not too bad, because you don't have to disturb the actual setup required on the gearset. You have to pay attention & there's some mechanical aptitude required, but nothing you can't do at home with instructions. But the input seal (where the driveshaft connects) is not a simple task. The input seal requires removal of the pinion gear, and there is a crush sleeve that must be swapped out and the torque for the nut is critical and very high. And all of this has to be done correct to have both the bearing preload & pinion depth setting work out with the shim you have. In short, the pinion seal at the front of the diff is not a rookie job.