john_a

Almost! Except for the fact that the fill plug is not on the housing, and not anywhere near the top right... I hope you're kidding now, esp. after saying that your cover had no fill plug in the first post. It sounds like you are still planning on ripping out the vent and overfilling the whole thing up to the top?

Actually, BMW Service manuals for both the 2002 and the E21 show the fill plugs on the diff covers. What manual are you referencing? All the 02 diff covers I save are the late finned ones, all have the fill plug on the left side of the COVER. These covers all came off 02 diff housings that had no fill plugs on the cast iron housing itself. All the E21 diff housings I save are the late six-bolt cap (as opposed to the earlier four-bolt bearing cap types) and none of these have a fill plug on the cast iron housing. They do have a drain plug on the right side of the housing, but I doubt anyone could confuse that for a fill plug. Pic of E21 cover with fill plug at lower right: Pic of 02 diff cover with fill plug just visible on left side:

Why do you think it is important to be "flush" on the front side? BMW provides the spacers if needed to move the seal off the wear line, but even when using those it is always based on the machined lip inside that you are to bottom the seal against. Forget the front, this is not a through-hole where you have to control the depth based on a feature at the front. Do you have a spacer in there? Do you need a spacer in there? If not, then get the seal pushed in all the way.

The online Bosch catalog shows the BMW number = 12 11 1 355 625 And Bosch lists where it was used: 1 237 330 209 Condenser, ignition Description Model Year Fitted Period kW HP cc BMW - 2000-3.2 Coupe (E9) - 3.0 Csi 07.71-03.76 - 147 200 2985 BMW - 2000-3.2 Coupe (E9) - 3.2 CSL 01.74-12.75 - 152 206 3153 BMW - 2500-3.3 (E3) - 3.0 Si 07.71-09.75 - 147 200 2985 If there was originally some significance to sequential part numbers (like 610 is rated just above 609) that is surely lost as Bosch superseded #'s so many times that all those relationships would be harder to spot. BMW listed capacitance values for Bosch condensors in their shop manuals (the 2002 blue books include this info) and I'm sure some other makes did the same. The idea is that SOME info is easy to get online & more info is available if you can dig thru other resources, like the various manufacturers service information

I'd want the seal seated fully. You do not want it to be off-square, and bottoming it in the recess helps avoid it getting tilted. Yours, as pictured MAY still be fully seated, if there is the factory spacer ring behind the seal (and hidden in the picture view.) That spacer is 0.060" thick & only 5 mm wide, so it would not show up in your pciture that shows the gap. If there is no spacer present, then the seal would be better off seated fully. If your crank has a wear line from the old seal, then get a hold a spacer or two to move the seal off the wear line.

BMW ETK (or any of the derivative online catalogs) lists supersessions & usages for parts. For example, looking at the 1800tisa, the point's part number is common to everything from a CSL to a BAV to a 7 series. But the condensor is used on fewer models (just various 02 & NK.) Bosch online catalog does interpret BMW numbers, and likewise displays supersession part numbers & usages amongst other marques. For example, BMW ETK shows the tisa condensor = 12 11 1 354 497. But Bosch only recognizes the preceding BMW part number for 12 11 1 354 497, so the ETK reveals that to be 12 11 8 630 102, which Bosch matches to their number 1 237 330 067 and can display its OE numbers as follows: AUTO UNION 8920 315 60 00 000 BMW 12 11 8 630 102 MERCEDES-BENZ 000 156 81 01 PUCH 710 1 09 524 2 RENAULT 08 55 389 700 SAAB 78 34 682 STEYR MOTORS 710 109 52 42 VOLVO 240190 There are great limitations, but still there is some good info available from these catalogs. Bosch catalog will (in most cases) also show "linked vehicles" in addition to the OE part numbers. They do not for the condensor example above, but they DO for the point set number BMW listed for 1800tisa, and you can find vehicle specs for all of the 319 cars that Bosch associated with that point set BMW used. Copied from the last vehicle listed that shares the 1800tisa point set: Type Description VAUXHALL VICEROY 2500 Model Year from-to 01.80 - 10.82 Output 115 HP / 85 kW Engine Capacity 2490 cc / 2,5 l Cylinder 6 Valves 2 Body Type Saloon Drive Type Rear Wheel Drive Brake System Hydraulic Engine Type Petrol Engine Fuel Type Petrol Fuel Mixture Formation Intake Manifold Injection/ Carburettor Type Number 13712 Engine Codes 25 S This is not nearly as detailed as the part's key characteristics like dimensions, tensions, capacitance, etc.. that you would like to come across on an engineering print, but it does at least show WHERE the parts where used, and all this is readily available from using the catalog functions.

OEM flag mirrors were available in black, not sure how easy to find as NOS today. I have a 'shadowlined trim' 02 these are spares for (not the best look, but it is what it is...)

Sad news.. While I never met Bill in person, I did enjoy dealing with him as he used to be the USA importer for Dr. Schrick products. Let's think of him the next time your 316* zings into those beautiful higher registers!

Repeating myself "Part catalogs are also available online, so it is not too hard to identify the BMW part numbers that fit" This really is true, it is not hard if you just make the effort. This site has a "links" section, try the "parts" link, click on realOEM's link. Starter bolts are in the catalog page with the starter motor. Look in Engine Electrical System, then Starter ..

Here's the bolts size for the fasteners that attach the trans to engine: M10x1.5x50 (qty 2) for bottom holes, where the locating dowels are pressed in the bell M8x1.25x45 (qty 1) on the right side M8x1.25x35 (qty 2) up by the cylinder head M10x1.5x75 (qty 2) starter bolts For future reference, the bolt sizes are shown in the parts catalog (without the thread pitch, but these are all common metric.) Part catalogs are also available online, so it is not too hard to identify the BMW part numbers that fit. BMW dealer pricing for most fasteners is very reasonable, and their parts network lets them get almost anything in a day or two, when it is not in stock. You can check the prices on part numbers at one of the online dealers that show actual (not inflated) BMWNA list price, as well as their discounted price. It may not always be practical to ship a small quantity of fasteners, so it really helps to establish a relationship with your local dealer if possible. If you bought all seven bolts listed above from BMW, it costs under $4 and you get the exact sizes & strengths that BMW engineering released for use. If you want to substitute one of the hex head starter bolts for a in-hex (allen head), BMW lists those in there standard parts folder on the ETK, look under "fillister head" for an appropriate size, and maybe get one with a flange or integral washer like they used on motorcycle engine cases. Speaking of washers, the trans attaching bolts all use wave washers, so don't forget to look them up as well (B8 & B10 size are cheap.) Check prices here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=26

I am not a fan of the Brembo aftermarket rotors for stock applications, they are not the best metal. These are NOT made with the same care, or in the same places that produce their higher end products. You were prepping for SCCA Prod rules, so no slots or drilled holes. For E21 rotors like you asked about (1979 320i vented fronts) I always try to get Balo brand, they own & use their own foundry to produce even these older car parts. The Balo rotors have a very good ring sound when you strike them as a percussion instrument, cheap rotors sound out with a duller thud. Brings to mind old concert performances of the Zulu Brake Torque Society!

No, your system is not failing in all the areas you mention because you are no longer routing coolant to the intake. The fact is any overpressure should only cause the radiator cap to release coolant out the overflow hose, nothing else in the system should leak or burst before that happens. If you are having issues like you describe, and you know you have not seen anything exit the pressure relief that is in the cap, then your system was weak & all those problems were ripe for failure. All the hoses & gaskets are supposed to be robust enough to not be effected by any normal operating pressures. And any time pressure rises above "normal", the radiator cap acts as the safety valve & vents out the overflow tube. Maybe when you were working on the system, something went wrong with the cap & its pressure relief? Fill your rad higher than normal, and put a catch can on the overflow hose to see if the cap relieves pressure & puts coolant in the catch can until the coolant level in the radiator corrects itself.

I've not seen the Chilton instructions in a long time, so I don't remember what they include. But once the trans mount & its crossmember are removed, the engine/trans combo should tip tail down, leaving more than enough room to let the top of the bell clear the firewall/top of tunnel on the way out. IIRC, the limits of travel for this tilting of the powertrain are from the center drag link (steering linkage) & then the distributor hitting the firewall. For extra clearance at the center drag link, crank the steering all the way to the left (or was it the right? see for yourself which is better.) Either direction will cause the center link to drop lower, providing more clearance for the trans bell housing. This really helps when you are struggling to put it back in. Be mindful of the distributor hitting the firewall, have a wood block ready to keep the engine from tipping too far, or consider removing the distributor if that is less trouble. I've never had to do that, in fact I've usually used jacks & wood blocks to maintain the engine tilted position. Especially when the trans is finally separated and the engine suddenly wants to tip forward. Bottom line is there should be room for the trans to come out without dropping the subframe or disconnecting the steering linkages, just find the right angle to tilt the engine back & you're golden.

Yes, use an actual break-in oil if possible, not just a reqular SAE 30 motor oil. I use the Brad Penn speciality break-in oil for new cams & rockers, the first running in time is critical on new engine builds. I'd go for the Joe Gibbs brand if it was easier to find locally, but the Brad Penn distributor is close by me & the products are excellent. Do not use too much assembly lube, and do not let it idle, but keep it around 2k rpm or just a bit higher for the first 20 minutes.

The sprocket for the S14 is available aftermarket (FEBI) for $16, about the same price for the IWIS brand chain. The wear on the sprocket makes for slack chain, so please replace both (your parts are very worn by how they look on video.) Skip the crank sprocket (not available aftermarket, very expensive from BMW) but change the other parts. Removing the pump sprocket gets the chain off, which you should do anyways to take the pump off to install the shims. No shortcut to adjusting the chain correctly, it is not that hard to do it right. BMAparts.com has this stuff for a good price

OK, I did not spot the S14.. had 2002 M10 on the brain The S14 from the E30 M3 has a different size chain, the links are 3/8 x 7/32" compared to the M10 chain's 3/8 x 5/32" Of course this means the pump sprocket is different than the M10, so the part numbers I listed for the M10 won't work for chain/sprocket. You need the S14 size, which is actually the M30 (old big six cylinder) chain & sprocket. Shims listed are the same, but you should replace the chain, not just shim it. The correct part is available aftermarket from IWIS and comes without a master link (stronger, safer) The nut is the same, because the actual oil pump (less pickup) IS the same part as an M10.

Don't have too much to contribute here that's proven, but did want to confirm the M30 did get paired with a 265 and the 265 Close Ratio, attached with a separate bell housing that does bolt to an M10. I have the bell & a couple 265 (one is the dog-leg close ratio) left over from my Euro 635csi ownership days. I've really wanted to adapt that M30 bell to take a World Class T5 trans, as they are sooo cheap & easy to work on, and there are tons of them available used. But the minimal pre-work I've done so far was not promising, things did not line up as well as hoped, so it would be a slice & weld to join the M30 bell with a T5 bell.. I really don't remember how far off things were, so if someone else has investigated this please chime in.

+1 on this, plus the rest of what he wrote The lines emptied from gravity, the fuel bowl in the carb does not drain out from sitting.

First off, you did a very good of describing the problem in a clear & concise manner, along with what steps you've taken to investigate.. then the video is perfect for showing exactly what your words explained! Too many folks post questions here without details that would make anyone even know what they are talking about, it's refreshing to see someone take the time to communicate. For your question: Your pump chain is far too loose. BMW says it should just be able to move with "light thumb pressure." Flopping around enough to hit the pump is bad. Adjusting a new chain is done with shims BMW sells to go between the pump & engine block. These are available in two thicknesses, and are not expensive. Your chain is too loose to simply shim tighter, it needs replacing. Your oil pump must have been replaced at some time, because it has the single nut sprocket that came on pumps in the 1980's. The chain looks odd, is that a master link? I've never used anything but the OEM IWIS brand chain here, witout a master link. 11 41 1 273 688 Gear new single hole 1 $10.30 11 41 1 716 989 Oil Pump Chain 1 $11.70 11 41 1 250 427 Shim 0.1 mm 1 $0.91 11 41 1 250 428 Shim 0.3 mm 1 $0.91 07 11 9 900 079 Nut - M10x1 1 $1.04 Just wait a bit, and C.D. will surely post the pictures of the pump diagram for the 700th time ..

The pic I posted to show the subframe connectors is not my car (and as I mentioned above, with a roll cage you don't really need the subframe connectors.) Scavenging effect is what that exhaust crossover is supposed to help, and done right it can be an improvement. One of the better versions of this is the Dr. Gas X-over systems, google that & you can see some nice items he sells

Well, if you knew what Mustang subframe connectors are, you'd realize that they are in the wrong place to tie a roll cage into them. Subframe connectors are too far inboard to work as supports for cage mounting plates. Also, the subframe connectors are really not going to add anything to a well-caged Mustang. I race a Mustang (with cage tied to the rockers, same as my BMW racecar) and even if subframe connectors were allowed, I doubt if anyone in my class would use them. Mustangs, like almost any other production unibody car are generally best fitted with the cage tied into the inner rockers. I have very well supported cage mounting plates in both my racecars, large enough & well placed to tie into structure as best as possible, primarily the vertical section of the inner rocker. Of course any car floor is going to be too thin to support a main hoop with tiny plates like are shown in the crash pic that started this thread, those plates are not much bigger than the tube, and could punch through very easily. Typical Mustang subframe connectors shown here:

IIRC, what MM did was two things -- Shim the pressure relief spring with a small M4 washer to raise the pressure the valve would start to bypass at (this does nothing to raise pressure when the pump is producing less than the stock 62 psi valve setting, and if you have 62 psi you don't need to fix anything.) Second thing I remember is they would take an old discraded valve guide (of which they had plenty) and machine it out to make a sleeve for the pump relief piston, the thinking was that this would solve the issue of the piston cocking & galling the softer magnesium it normally rode in. A 2 cent washer & a scrap valve guide put to good use, I guess if the bronze sleeve don't fall out when the pump body warms up. None of this increases the pump displacement. Not sure there is a readily available oil pump upgrade for replacing the stock part. The BMW branded part is much safer than the FEBI aftermarket piece, but to improve on stock, you might need a dry sump external pump?

The standard S14 pump is the same pump body as all the M10 variants, BMW catalog shows they have the same part numbers on the main pump & rotor sections. Just the pickup bolted on the back is different, giving the pump assemblies unique part numbers. There is another S14 pump though, that is different than the standard S14 oil pump, and seems to be preferred by the S14 crowd.. I don't have the numbers here now, but searching the S14 sites should dig it up. But for the regular S14 pump, once you swap your M10 pickup on it you have exactly the same as a stock M10 part, no performance advantage.

Let me guess... FEBI oil pump ? the oil pump pressure relief can stick full open on a cold start, esp. on after a cooler night & when the oil is real thick (like 20W50, esp mineral vs synthetic which usually has a better cold pour point.) 20W50 is pretty heavy, I do use it on some cars but only when I can tell the engine requires it by its oil temperature & pressure readings. High oil temps & larger main bearing clearances can sometimes drive the need for 20W50. On a tighter fit engine, or one that runs cooler, maybe with an oil cooler helping, you can get away with far thinner oils & actually get better protection with more net power. Drag racers making extreme power can often run water-thin engine oils, because they never get hot, and they are built & tuned for those conditions.

These are known as retaining rings, more specifically this one is an external circlip. or simply an e-clip. BMW calls the part a circlip, and there are two different sizes on the timing chain rubbing rail (the part that pivots as the tensioner piston acts on it) and the fixed chain guide (the white plastic part) respectively. The pivot on the tensioner rail has one 6 mm clip: 07 11 9 932 842 $1.07 (jeez, these were $0.04 each last time I replenished stock!) The fixed rail has two 5 mm circlips: 07 11 9 932 832 $0.09 each (these were only $0.04 too, but at least BMW only double that rather than the 2500% increase on the other clip.) Sizes quoted above are per the BMW description, but the actual clip 07 11 9 932 842 looks more like it matches a 7 mm e-clip specs, and the pin it fits is actually 8mm. Other than the confusion about what size it really is, they are cheap and easy to find at a good fastener house, or mcmaster.com, or just play it safe and buy them from BMW.