TobyB

I'd stay air- air myself- the 2002 is a crossflow, front- mount engine,
and that packaging lends itself pretty well to a crossover arrangement.
 
If you're really hurting for space, you could always bury a couple
of Saab- style intercoolers behind the headlights by removing
the inner fender bulkhead panels  You know,
the ones with the circles embossed in them.  Or even just cut out the circles.
There's a LOT of room there, and it'll get airflow
from the front grilles.  The biggest challenge is fabricating an inner fender
to deflect wheel debris off them.
 
In an ideal universe, I'd pull brake cooling from there, too.
t
 
 

yeah, that's odd.  So do what you need to do to get a pretty tight mechanical seal, and life's good.
 
There's nothing to align, really, other than the inlet port, and that's not a precision fit.
 
t
 

Loaded is when you're accelerating, overrun is coasting with the engine slowing you down.
 
If the transmission or the diff's coming apart, that noise changes a lot.  If the center support is a mess,
usually it's constant- ish.  If you don't see anything obviously wrong with guibo, center support or driveshaft,
look carefully for something touching either the body (often the top of the tunnel) or the exhaust, or the exhaust
hitting something.  You can sometimes feel it, too.
Taking the driveshaft off is sometimes the only way to really make sure it's OK, as the center bearing
can get pretty noisy before it tears itself free.
 
If you can get it safely supported on 4 stands, I've carefully crawled under the car with it running and in gear
to try to diagnose driveshaft problems- I'm not saying it's SAFE, just that I've survived it without scars!
 
That noise does sound like bearings, tho, sadly.  But sounds over the internet are notoriously hard to diagnose.
 
t
 

replacement part.
pezzo di ricambio  
t
 

1 yes.
 
2 in the direction that the ball lets it.
 
iii nope
 
iiii it supplies oil to the piston.
 
The way the thing works:  Oil's supplied by the reservoir. 
The timing chain slaps the piston back against spring pressure,
pumping out a bit of air.
The one- way valve lets oil in, but not back out.  Air can leak out
(around the internal piston fit?  Via a small relief groove?  I've never looked,
and different BMW tensioners are slightly different)
so oil replaces the air.
Eventually, the piston is full of oil, and the spring convinces it over
time to stay out against the chain tensioner, keeping the tensioner tight.
If it overtightens (thermal differential, e.g.) the pressure in the piston goes
way up, and oil is slowly bled off.
If it's loose, the chain slap against the tensioner spring and the
normal action of a 4- cylinder engine's camshaft lets
the piston move, and pump itself up a bit.
 
The piston's just a biased damper- since there isn't always tension
against the slack side of the chain, it's designed to work its way to 
about spring tightness, and then sit there.  If there's constant pressure against
it (you slowly roll the motor over in reverse for a couple of minutes)
it will eventually collapse.  But once the motor's running, it'll slowly pump
itself back into place- often, with a lot of noise that didn't seem to 
bother the BMW engineers in the slightest.
 
It's kind of elegant.
 
t
 

Rockers seem to only break when the valves float.
 
On a stock engine with good springs, this seems to happen at somewhere
over 7k on a long overrun, or on the rev limiter.
EVEN with the newer Febi rockers, WITH voids in ugly places.
 
Yes, if the valves are badly out of lash, or the cam is badly worn, then
they can probably float and break at lower revs.  But it'd be pretty noisy at that point.
 
I've measured a bunch of original springs- there may be ones that sink (shorten) but 
I've found exactly zero- and I've used 'old, original' springs with an auxiliary spring
on several race heads.
 
Given the rash of (historical) problems with HD rockers, I have yet to use them.
However, I limit whatever's in the car at 7600, and don't let it sit on the limiter there
(except for once, when I discovered the abovementioned voids)
With a cam that (barely) fits into the stock journals.
 
Yes, you can go nuts.  But it's not worth it unless you're going significantly over
stock revs, and way more cam ramp than a 292 (which is pretty close to stock, in ramp rates)
 
And I've never had any engine damage from driving it back on 3.  I even finished one race
that way, as I needed the points for a finish.  So, 5 or 6 laps at Spokane's maybe 10 miles?
 
t
has only broken 3 or 4.
 

Me, having had a bad experience with extra holes drilled into the head, I'd also
find the E30 version- it's the same casting, so it has the same bosses, just no drilling.
 
That said, I've never heard of the late E21 head having any more propensity to crack...
 
300 for a late E21 engine seems a bit much, but not exorbitant, especially if it gets
you a few other things that might be useful.  Plugging the holes can be as simple
as freeze plugs- but they may whistle!
 
The late E21 block is heavier than the E30 block-  they remade the casting for the E30.
I do recall it's lighter than a 2002 version, but I don't remember where it falls on the 
'overbore ability versus strength' scale.  It does have all the 2002 bosses cast into it,
but they may not all be tapped- I remember one being tapped at 6mm for a little
bracket whereas the 2002 wanted 10mm for a mount.
 
Rods work, crank is good for cutting up into paperweights, some of the ancillaries
(like the pulleys) are different, and therefore useful for other things.  
 
t

My vote- rotate the engine mount so that the alignment peg drops down into the slot.
 
Then see how far off vertical the engine mount  is...
 
From that picture, I can't tell exactly which way's up- the subframe mount tilts backwards, so
the alignment peg on the rubber engine mount's offset so that it sits at a right angle to the engine,
and thus has freedom of movement in the right axis.
 
t
 

Oh, my: guys, stop.
 
The E21 ignition system for the later 1.8i cars had a distributor with a reluctor in it.
It's effectively a defective alternator that generates a voltage spike every
180 degrees of crank revolution, thus,  every 90 of distributor revolution.
It uses both vacuum and mechanical advance to control spark timing,
and has no other parts.
 
This reluctor wires to the ignition control module directly, and triggers it via that voltage spike.
So the 2 small wires that come out of the side of the distributor on that square connector
(there are 2 wires inside that green cable coming off the side, plus a shield around them)
go to pins 3 and 7 of the Ignition Control Module. 
Ideally, the shield from that cable grounds to pin 31d.
 
Pin 15 needs power, which should also be connected to Coil +.
Pin 31 should be grounded to the body: the body also should be solidly grounded to the engine.
Pin 16, 'spark control' goes to Coil -  Once the car is running, the tach can also be connected to coil -
 
The ignitor then fires the coil, Kettering- style, and there's your spark.
 
The resistor on the firewall should be removed from the picture entirely.
 
Johnny Jo Bob is not required in cases such as these.  Just a few good- quality wires.
 
t

I too would replace the rear studs- the old ones don't owe you anything!
 
And if they've been overtorqued they may be compromised.
 
Finding quality studs is NOT trivial, though- anything in the aftermarket right
now is a COMPLETE crapshoot, whereas the original German studs were quite good.
 
To directly answer the question, you'd probably have to ask your machinist.
If they do it on a mill with a rotary table, maybe, but on a lathe, maybe not.
It just depends on how they set the job up.  There's no truly easy way to cut them down,
as there isn't a convenient concentric surface to grab onto.
 
I've done it on a car with an angle grinder, and that took a while.  But it was
quicker and easier than disassembly!
 
t
 

If you look at older threads, it's a design failure on the part of the 124.
 
The original distributors have a spiral milled into the shaft to move oil back down.
The 122 does not, but also does not have any other provision for sealing the shaft.
 
It would be an interesting exercise to try to correct the omission on a lathe- with a milling head.
Or a Dremel rigged as a milling head.
Or just cut a thread of a very coarse pitch with a very small round-tipped cutter.
 
The other possibility, which is less likely, is that the drain hole on the distributor
well is blocked somehow, allowing pressure to build.  Shine a light down there,
and pour a bit of oil in- it should drain out, kinda slowly, through a hole drilled at an angle
towards the bottom of the housing.  If you used RTV on the housing gasket, that could do it...
 
t
should add a 124 to the fleet.
 
 

Corteco is pretty well- respected brand for gaskets in newer cars.
I've never used one of their headgaskets on a 2002, but used
plenty of Corteco gaskets.  If the kit does something you like
(cheap, has the right thickness, etc)
I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
 
t
 

On a different car,
 
I took the top off of its original sender and brazed on the sender I wanted to use.
 
Took 20 minutes, no explosions or even much swearing.
 
t

www.realoem.com might help
 
There's a simple way to tell, though- drop the bolts
into their prospective holes.  If you're right, you'll show
about 15mm or so gap between the head and the shoulder.
Often, you'll be able to easily see where it's not right,
swap a few around, and off you go.
 
that's how I do it.  I do usually keep the fasteners for
one subassembly together- ish.  In tuna cans.
 
Also, if you start snugging a bolt and it feels soft,
see if the head's bottomed onto the shoulder.
Often, you'll discover you have a bolt that's
5mm too long in the hole.
 
t
 

Check both the 'idle' transition jet AND the idle screw passageway.

The idle screw draws fuel through the transition jet, so a clog in either
can cause exactly your symptoms in exactly your circumstances.
 
hth
 
t

on an E46!
 
t
recognizes the 'one use anti- gall coating'.

If you're talking about the factory marks,
 
the ones I've seen aren't  lacquer, it's more of a quick swipe with enamel on a cheap brush.
 
I always figured that it was proof that an inspector had checked fitment and attachment-
it's like a dog peeing on a hydrant more than anything- 'I was here.'
 
And it seems to be kind of random, although I never cleaned up parts cars before shredding them.
 
t

That's random.  It won't really do anything, 'cause it's tiny.  As in, nanofarads... 
 
A PO addition, for sure.
 
t

Don't move it.
 
There are lots of horror stories about what happens when the thrust axes are moved.
 
I'll post more in a bit, but a mis- mesh here is messy and expensive.  On FJ60 engines, it can kill cam gears, covers, etc.
 
edit.  Ok, I thought about it some more, and it's probably not so bad on a 2002.  The issue on engines where
the dizzy also drives the oil pump is that if the gear's too high or too low, it puts end loading on the
camshaft.  The cam's not designed to take much constant end load, so it wears, starts to move, wears more,
moves farther, and then the gear starts to get chewed up.  I think on the FJ's it's made worse by gear metallurgy.
 
On the 2002, the distributor's not loaded at all, so...
 
Of all the people to try it, Tom, I think you should.  BUT keep an eye on it to make sure nothing goes wrong.
 
Other than the thrust 'issue', it seems like it'd work...
t
 
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-does-this-even-happen.959904/#post-10679711

Yup, as Mike says, if there's a hole, it gets a tiny hitch pin,
and if there's a groove, it gets an e-clip.
 
Those e- clips are infamous for flying off and taking a dive
in the neighbor's pool, since you have to disconnect them 
to get the lid off the carb.
 
t
 

https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/2002/?year=1973&m=20&e=819&t=6&b=5&d=3720&v=&keywords=oil filter
 
Probably either.  It's a very standard filter, and as far as we know, the only way to mess it up is
to put a cheapo on it and then never change the oil.
 
t

I've used variations on the eccentric cam arrangement, including the IE setup.  It works fine.  They DO seem to want to be re-
torqued after a morning's track session, but once retorqued, don't seem to ever come loose again. 
 
The serrated version will, as Fred says, be a lot less likely to slip.  At the cost of making adjustments harder and less precise.
My personal take would be that the serrated for camber would be fine, but for toe, you could concievably weld the serrated version
such that you can't get the exact toe you want.  And in back, that CAN be a bit of a stinker, as the 1/8" right around zero toe
tends to be the sweet spot.
 
fwiw
 
t

Should work fine.
 
brake light function might be different?
 
t

...that looks beautiful... <snif>
 
hee
 
t

Heat, penetrating oil, and a 2-3 lb copper mallet.  You pull the halfshaft, and drive the stub axle back out of the trailing arm.
 
Because if you're pulling the hubs, it's time for at least a re- grease anyways...
 
t