Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Rear hub health check


bento
Go to solution Solved by TobyB,

Recommended Posts

I pulled the rear hub flanges tonight so I can get longer studs pressed in. I expected this to be a PITA, but both sides came off easy, real easy. Too easy?

Both sides went exactly the same;

Removed cotter pin while car was on the ground. Noted that driver side pin was nearly new. I may have replaced this when I got the car. I don't recall now.

Broke loose both hub nuts with a 3' breaker bar. Arm strength was enough. Much easier than I remember the crank pulley nut being, but comparable to a lug nut through an 18" breaker bar.

Jacked up the car, removed wheels & drums.

Both hub nuts spun off smoothly and easily. Once off, I saw that the threads were freshly greased up.

Seeing how easily the nuts unthreaded, I decided to see if I could pull the hub flanges. They came right off by hand and the splines were also greased up with what looked like fairly fresh grease.

That seemed too easy. All of this took 30 minutes. I've been procrastinating on this project for months based on the threads I've seen on the topic making it out to be much worse. Shouldn't these take some work with a puller to remove? Or is that only on a 40 year old dry fit that's corroded over the years?

Pictures:

post-47476-0-21995100-1453172217_thumb.j

post-47476-0-35370300-1453172240_thumb.j

This is just one side. Other side looks the same. They look fine to me but I'm not sure I know what I'm looking for.

No excess play was noted by me or two mechanics who have gone over the car thoroughly in the last month or two and everything spun nicely when I had the axles out for reconditioning fall 2014.

Brent

1974 2002 - Megasquirt and turbo

2018 BMW M2/ 2013 Porsche Cayenne Diesel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks fine so far.

 

The other places to look are the hub flange itself, where it presses against the inner bearing race,

and the sleeve in between the bearings.

 

if it's ever loosened up, those surfaces wear, and the spacer wear will kill the bearings, as it messes

up the setup depth.  If you do the setup procedure in the FSM, you'll end up with a .020" thinner spacer

and it'll work ok.

 

hth

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Toby. Here's the other side of the hub where it presses against the bearing.

post-47476-0-66615900-1453180804_thumb.j

These must've been replaced in the not too distant past. Remnants of the part label is still present.

post-47476-0-87218900-1453180876_thumb.j

So removing the flange by hand doesn't sound like an issue? Hub bearings show no play and spun smoothly when I last had the axles out.

Brent

1974 2002 - Megasquirt and turbo

2018 BMW M2/ 2013 Porsche Cayenne Diesel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome. I'll just consider myself fortunate and go back to getting those longer studs pressed in. The studs were recommended by Westwerks when they did the PCA/BMWCCA inspections. I bought them a while ago, knowing I was right at 8 turns of engagement, but procrastinated until they called it out.

I think this was the first project that was actually easier than I expected going in.

Thanks again.

Brent

1974 2002 - Megasquirt and turbo

2018 BMW M2/ 2013 Porsche Cayenne Diesel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Patrick pressed out the old studs and pressed in the new ones for me. I got everything reassembled without a hitch.

post-47476-0-54725400-1453519826_thumb.j

Yup, those should be long enough. I'm debating whether I should cut them down so I can run the covers. I might look into center cap options as well.

Brent

1974 2002 - Megasquirt and turbo

2018 BMW M2/ 2013 Porsche Cayenne Diesel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...