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TobyB

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by TobyB

  1. I wouldn't hesitate to use 1/4"-20s in a grade 3. Look at the tensile strength, and the low shock loading that the engine stand puts on 'em, even in hard cornering. Now, replying to a 3 year old thread, THAT might make me a bit... nervous... t
  2. with a title, an engine that's not seized, and no rust? All the parts are there? 5 speed swap? Brake upgrades? sure. Sounds good to me! Oh, wait- I'm spending YOUR money here. Me, I'd be more likely to buy that $2200 low- rust shell off C-List that comes with 'quite a few parts' and then spend $20k over 2 years making it the way I wanted it. ...but I do happen to have 'a few' spare parts kicking around here ....somewhere.... t
  3. I use 11's on the exhaust stud nuts myself. But the 4 or 6 or 8 10mm sockets I own? nowhere to be found. t
  4. Whuf- my only experience is with a 1600-2 that had that style pressure plate, but it was 200(?)mm and rather... unique. We ended up finding some older aftermarket parts in the original style, but the parts that came out were slightly different dimensions to anything I had kicking around. This was at least 20 years ago, so the details... well... One of the options is to drill the 6- bolt flywheel for the later pressure plates, I think I read on here once a long time ago. t who, when he was doing it 'for real' had the luxury of just tossing the 6- bolt cranks in CD's pool.
  5. +1- they were purely an add- on. Me, I'd remove every vestige of them, so if you add an earlier bumper later (heh) it'll be bolt- on. You'll need a roundie battery tray if you plan to leave the battery in front. t
  6. ...but does it drill lightening holes in your wallet? heh t
  7. Yeeps- not at that price! Smoke's the trendy new (ok, not so new, just becoming popular) to find air leaks in intake tracts. It's a useful tool, but for older non- DI cars, it doesn't simulate the vacuum the intake experiences. I have a $50 smoke pot off ePay and an air regulator, and it does well enough... t
  8. Looks to me like 5er calipers on tii struts. 3.5" between mounting bolts, as opposed to the standard calipers at 3". Needs ducts, and far fewer 'lightening holes' in the rotors. t
  9. I do find myself wondering what the BotAIPseudoIntelligentsia is learning- maybe it's modelling our behaviour to better simulate us when it takes over the world... t tapered
  10. Trailer light adaptor for Ed. t
  11. Maybe OT means they wear in a taper. My experience has been more that they wear somewhat egg- shaped, with a belly in the middle. But honestly, I've never bothered to map it carefully... One does wonder why a 15 year thread was bumped... I'm working on a couple of M54s right now- 200k miles, and almost no wear. TONS of build- up, but even the ring flank clearance is well within spec. M10s wear out quickly. t
  12. The larger diameter clutch is shallower, so a 228 with 5 speed ought to use the 323 throwout. I did one that way, one the other way, and never really noticed much difference, either. t
  13. funny- I saw that the other day looking for things, and thought- dafuq? and moved on. That said, make a scroll housing for it, and the heater would finally flow some air! t hackify your life for better airflow.
  14. www.realoem.com will answer this and far more questions like it! (I think so, but I've never stuck them side by side to be sure) t
  15. I use gaff tape on the ti's seat. I get about a year before I have to re- tape it. works for me! t wishes he had a nice anvil like that...
  16. heh- owning a 2000 E39 (same setup) the cable is the backup for a really goofy elektromekanik throttle. But you're right, there's a cable off the pedal, and it goes to the throttle body. What happens there... is best left unmentioned... like the trombone section, if you don't look at it, it usually minds its own business. As to fitting hanging pedals, the difficulty is that the 2002 dash is not structural. I suspect, with the padding, that may be intentional to allow it to collapse if you're thrown into it. But there's not enough native structure to take the force of a panic stop footpedal. And when you go looking for structural things to attach to, there's... well, there's the left side inner fender, the right side inner fender, and not a lot else. This started out as a very light car indeed. Even the brake booster assembly contains its own forces- note the brace to the abovementioned stout inner fender. And this carried through- much later models have significant pedal boxes added to transfer the loading, and have a history of flexing and cracking. Me, I adapt the foot pedals, and use my ankles to drive. I've come to like it, over the E30. t
  17. Well, you could go all electronical and use an E46 pedal- that's stock in every E46. There isn't anything really that duplicates the stock setup, being floor- hinged and all. Porsche and VW both used that method, but with a different execution. Most people use the stock pedal and bent rod, and then modify it after it comes ' out of the stock box, and that works as well as anything. I hate hanging pedals because working under dashes and in doors is crappy. I dislike the pedal box because there's just not a lot of room down there. Maybe I'll design something that hinges out of the console- but then, where would all the air conditioning crap go? heh t
  18. I STILL have a divot out of one leg from a particularly vicious encounter with one of those... (Henn- think shin whacker...) t
  19. While I agree with Jim in principle, I think in practice you'd be fine. (it's not tapered, it's meant for a flat seal, though) Ideally, you'd run a thread chaser through it, but finding one for that thread? Me, I'd clean it out well, figure out my crush washer stack, and then add a bit of blue loc-tite just to help me sleep at night. I do wonder what you'd get for temps- that's kind of the appendix of the water flow, back there. t
  20. Believe me when I tell you that I'm full of shit... t
  21. Agreed- a separate power supply, fused appropriately, is a really good idea. Also, with the factory trailer kit, spreading the load is key. The one or 2 I've seen could have used bigger backing washers- or plates, even. Now, if you had a 2002 trailer, THAT would be cuter than... well, than this, for sure: t
  22. I'd say it depends on what you have for resources. If you have a way to roll it, the stand, with straps, why not? If you have to hoist it, I'll vouch for the old tyre, too. A chunk of 4x4 to go under the end, and some straps. No matter what you do, use at least 3 or 4 straps. t
  23. Yeah, I always took the drawings (especially the part number diagrams) as 'this goes here' not 'this is how it goes together' t ginnand tonix
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