TobyB

Whups! What's the first 6er, then? t

I think that might be the third horseman of the apocolypse, right there... t

So what I found was the round Magnaflow- which was a 'glass pack' arrangement- was that it was darn near 103 at the tailpipe. At the rear. If I got the turndown to aim away from sound, I was usually at 101. Then I stuck a Supertrapp on the end of THAT to run at Mission with a (98?) limit, and had to take enough plates out that it hurt lap times. Went to the FlowBastard and now don't make it to 95. And it doesn't seem to slow me down enough to notice. t edit, from the other thread we're un- jacking here: That sounds so good in theory. In practice, it MIGHT make a 6dBSPL cancellation- IF you held the engine at the exact right rpm to generate an exact standing wave of just the right frequency.... Noise cancelling headphones use active processing, and even that way the consumer version's not all that hot (15dB, maybe). The Military version are far better, but cost more than a nice 72tii with a matching enclosed car trailer... t

There isn't a definitive answer. Because not all tires are created the same. Even the same tire may change over time as the manufacturer changes moulds and methods. The 195 is marginal. If you need certainty, the 185 is safe. t runs 205s

Paul, I'd pretty much guarantee you have E12 calipers there. But I think, at this point, the difference is just casting and spacer differences. Dimensionally, overall, they should be as good as the same. The early 5 series are 40mm, I'm pretty sure... E12, etc, and they're the same as the tii. Kits weren't too much, last I bought. The E23 (6er) calipers are the same casting, but are machined such that only one circuit is needed. That's what I use. 40mm pistons, too. All of these chassis changed to single pot sliders in the '80's... As to a muffler, yeah, it's a pain in the butt. I originally had a magnaflow, then changed to a flowbastard when the magnaflow was blowing marginally too loud. No resonator- just 2.5" pipe. I carried a plate muffler that I could run in place of a turndown for the 95dB tracks... t

It's a dished wheel, right? I wonder what's growing in it.... t sorry

Careful, or I'll go on a Select Classics rant next! t you've been warned...

... and Byron builds some pretty nice engines... You'll have to let the piston come up out of the caliper a bit- or pull the dust boot away from the caliper body, and use a digital caliper to measure the ID of the bore. Typical numbers are 38mm and 40mm... That's a very familiar setup- I have jelly for the dry sump, but don't understand the fuel pressure regulator in the trunk! Under hard braking, you'll get flooding, as the mass of the fuel in the line will overcome the Weber floats, and all sorts of pops and bangs and things will happen. I also don't understand the brake booster, but at first, you won't mind... Also, put a muffler on it. "Real Men" don't, but then "Real Men" buy $80,000 trucks... and drive them to Safeway. if you have a muffler, you'll have a chance of hearing what the rest of the car (and grid) is doing, and that can make a world of difference. Also, wear earplugs. That's a nice car. In your seat, I'd get a different seat, get the harnesses re-webbed, and make moulds of all the fenders. And then go see how much life is left in that engine! Oh- did you get a crate of diffs? t

Compressed air from the other side. Make sure you have something set up to catch it, because it may come out of there at speed. If air by itself doesn't do it, wad up a bit of paper towel to act as a piston. Start small, but you eventually may end up with a relatively large ball of towel. Or you can use air to blow a string (pull line) through the pipe, then tie something of the right diameter to the string and use THAT to pull the socket out in a more controlled fashion. t worked as an electrician once.

Me too. I'm now going to go on just a bit of a tangent about 'special cars'- yup, it's a rant- The tii is a BMW 2002 with a rather interesting fuel delivery system. And slightly bigger brakes. It's not a Ferrari Dino, it's not even a Citroen SM. It's certainly not the gap between a 912 and a 911. The best feature of a tii is the front struts, which have big bearings and can take big brakes for the cost of a junkyard trip. Yes, the several motor improvements are nice, but there are other ways to get there and beyond. So yes, a few thousand extra for a tii makes good sense. IF you're comparing like cars. If you're into 'intangeables' then that's your thing- I'd much rather be a hoarder than be an emperor with a wardrobe full of new clothes- but if you're into cars for what they do, then the tii is a nice bump if you want a stock car. If you DON'T want a stock car, though, the tii's a dead end. So far as I know, no'one's offering cone tuning services, and that really limits what can be done with the thing. Which is kinda too bad, as a bit more cam really helps the M10. And it can take a bit more compression, too, especially with a fuel injection system that's more capable. Oh, yeah, the fuel injection- it's a bit of a disaster. There is some amazing precision in there- and then there's that folded sheet of plate. And no easy way to adjust it. It's like KF went 3/4 of the way, and then discovered that the budget was spent. Or BMW said 'we want a cheaper one' and KF complied. Yes, I'd love a nice stock tii, but I'd never use it. And, see above, I already have lots of things that I don't use often enough. Now, a scruffy 2002 with sidedrafts and tubs in back? That, I'd use a lot. t and about the ZHP E46...

ooo- triple- check that dimension on the spacing. Because what I THINK I see is an early E21 hub, 5er caliper, tii strut and '77 E21 rotor. Because what I think I'm looking at is an external rotor, and a tii dust cap. But check me, and here's how: Does the rotor come off the hub, with a 5mm allen, leaving the hub still attached to the strut? (that's the E21 (much better) way of doing business) What is the od of the dust cap when you remove it from the hub? (That'll tell which bearings you have, thus, which strut it is) If the spacing's 3" but with bigger bearings (that bulging dust cap)then it's possibly an NK strut (???) or with the smaller bearings, you'd have a standard 2002 strut with a different caliper on it? (not E21- those were 2 pot, not 4.) See how Vision's hub's almost touching the caliper? That's the 2002 style hub. I don't see that flange on your car. Pull those spacers off the front of the rotor and give us a full frontal shot of that thingus. heh t

That.^ It totally depends on what the distributor wants to see. t

I wouldn't hesitate to use 1/4"-20s in a grade 3. Look at the tensile strength, and the low shock loading that the engine stand puts on 'em, even in hard cornering. Now, replying to a 3 year old thread, THAT might make me a bit... nervous... t

with a title, an engine that's not seized, and no rust? All the parts are there? 5 speed swap? Brake upgrades? sure. Sounds good to me! Oh, wait- I'm spending YOUR money here. Me, I'd be more likely to buy that $2200 low- rust shell off C-List that comes with 'quite a few parts' and then spend $20k over 2 years making it the way I wanted it. ...but I do happen to have 'a few' spare parts kicking around here ....somewhere.... t

I use 11's on the exhaust stud nuts myself. But the 4 or 6 or 8 10mm sockets I own? nowhere to be found. t

Whuf- my only experience is with a 1600-2 that had that style pressure plate, but it was 200(?)mm and rather... unique. We ended up finding some older aftermarket parts in the original style, but the parts that came out were slightly different dimensions to anything I had kicking around. This was at least 20 years ago, so the details... well... One of the options is to drill the 6- bolt flywheel for the later pressure plates, I think I read on here once a long time ago. t who, when he was doing it 'for real' had the luxury of just tossing the 6- bolt cranks in CD's pool.

+1- they were purely an add- on. Me, I'd remove every vestige of them, so if you add an earlier bumper later (heh) it'll be bolt- on. You'll need a roundie battery tray if you plan to leave the battery in front. t

...but does it drill lightening holes in your wallet? heh t

Yeeps- not at that price! Smoke's the trendy new (ok, not so new, just becoming popular) to find air leaks in intake tracts. It's a useful tool, but for older non- DI cars, it doesn't simulate the vacuum the intake experiences. I have a $50 smoke pot off ePay and an air regulator, and it does well enough... t

Looks to me like 5er calipers on tii struts. 3.5" between mounting bolts, as opposed to the standard calipers at 3". Needs ducts, and far fewer 'lightening holes' in the rotors. t

You mean cowl drain, methinks. t

I do find myself wondering what the BotAIPseudoIntelligentsia is learning- maybe it's modelling our behaviour to better simulate us when it takes over the world... t tapered

Trailer light adaptor for Ed. t

Maybe OT means they wear in a taper. My experience has been more that they wear somewhat egg- shaped, with a belly in the middle. But honestly, I've never bothered to map it carefully... One does wonder why a 15 year thread was bumped... I'm working on a couple of M54s right now- 200k miles, and almost no wear. TONS of build- up, but even the ring flank clearance is well within spec. M10s wear out quickly. t

The larger diameter clutch is shallower, so a 228 with 5 speed ought to use the 323 throwout. I did one that way, one the other way, and never really noticed much difference, either. t