TobyB

E46, right now. 3 liter, but don't buy into the ZHP hype. I'ma tellinya, that's what'll appreciate in the next 20 years. An M3, even more so. t got his M54 handed to him by an S54 this morning, and then we both waved.

...and live half a life, not a whole. Fitting two mufflers is far more appealing. t

Da, then it should be fine, for sure. Popov's idea of using the pushrod to remote it a bit's good, too. t

oddly, though, the single- line 4- pots seem to only come on the 6, not the 5... at least, from my junkyard trawling years ago. Not many come through, these days. t

Ha- I had the same reaction... "Jeeezzzuzzzzz...." t

So, as Jim noted above, it's going to be really hard to get a precise, repeatable signal switch off of the fuel pump lobe. It's too smooth. It really needs a step. Even if that step's just a chunk of something epoxied onto the lobe. Or a milled ring clamped over the lobe. Or SOMETHING. t still firing off the crank, over here.

N52 engine swap. Ignition problems solved. and you skip right by profile gasket problems to intake valve carbon... t

dammit. Well, E23, E24, whatever it takes... I've been saying that wrong for decades, then. t

shit, sorry-

Yeah, my understanding is that by the time you pass 5500, you get far more assistance by maintaining the wave front, and that inertial sizes become a flow restriction. The V8 guys will tune each runner on the headers a little differently to broaden the peak of the effect- they sacrifice ultimate HP boost in favor of power over a wider band (for them, they're talking about a 500 rpm band, ususally) I never had the time, science, brainspace, brainpower or instrumentation to go very far down that route! t

...i was serious about the compressed air... t

I've always made a pointer that hangs off one of the unused mounting bosses and indicates TDC of whatever front crank pulley I'm using. Or whatever degree marking that's the most useful. I seem to remember a piece of aluminum angle can be cut to work, but this was all done before your RFID tracker was also your camera, so I'll have to go take a picture of it tomorrow. t

Ok, circled in red- what's that? It LOOKS like two wires kinda twisted together without any insulation... Circled in green is the end of the plug wire where it comes loose, unscrews, and overheats if you don't have the heat insulation exhaust manifold gasket from an E21. t

Whups! What's the first 6er, then? t

I think that might be the third horseman of the apocolypse, right there... t

So what I found was the round Magnaflow- which was a 'glass pack' arrangement- was that it was darn near 103 at the tailpipe. At the rear. If I got the turndown to aim away from sound, I was usually at 101. Then I stuck a Supertrapp on the end of THAT to run at Mission with a (98?) limit, and had to take enough plates out that it hurt lap times. Went to the FlowBastard and now don't make it to 95. And it doesn't seem to slow me down enough to notice. t edit, from the other thread we're un- jacking here: That sounds so good in theory. In practice, it MIGHT make a 6dBSPL cancellation- IF you held the engine at the exact right rpm to generate an exact standing wave of just the right frequency.... Noise cancelling headphones use active processing, and even that way the consumer version's not all that hot (15dB, maybe). The Military version are far better, but cost more than a nice 72tii with a matching enclosed car trailer... t

There isn't a definitive answer. Because not all tires are created the same. Even the same tire may change over time as the manufacturer changes moulds and methods. The 195 is marginal. If you need certainty, the 185 is safe. t runs 205s

Paul, I'd pretty much guarantee you have E12 calipers there. But I think, at this point, the difference is just casting and spacer differences. Dimensionally, overall, they should be as good as the same. The early 5 series are 40mm, I'm pretty sure... E12, etc, and they're the same as the tii. Kits weren't too much, last I bought. The E23 (6er) calipers are the same casting, but are machined such that only one circuit is needed. That's what I use. 40mm pistons, too. All of these chassis changed to single pot sliders in the '80's... As to a muffler, yeah, it's a pain in the butt. I originally had a magnaflow, then changed to a flowbastard when the magnaflow was blowing marginally too loud. No resonator- just 2.5" pipe. I carried a plate muffler that I could run in place of a turndown for the 95dB tracks... t

It's a dished wheel, right? I wonder what's growing in it.... t sorry

Careful, or I'll go on a Select Classics rant next! t you've been warned...

... and Byron builds some pretty nice engines... You'll have to let the piston come up out of the caliper a bit- or pull the dust boot away from the caliper body, and use a digital caliper to measure the ID of the bore. Typical numbers are 38mm and 40mm... That's a very familiar setup- I have jelly for the dry sump, but don't understand the fuel pressure regulator in the trunk! Under hard braking, you'll get flooding, as the mass of the fuel in the line will overcome the Weber floats, and all sorts of pops and bangs and things will happen. I also don't understand the brake booster, but at first, you won't mind... Also, put a muffler on it. "Real Men" don't, but then "Real Men" buy $80,000 trucks... and drive them to Safeway. if you have a muffler, you'll have a chance of hearing what the rest of the car (and grid) is doing, and that can make a world of difference. Also, wear earplugs. That's a nice car. In your seat, I'd get a different seat, get the harnesses re-webbed, and make moulds of all the fenders. And then go see how much life is left in that engine! Oh- did you get a crate of diffs? t

Compressed air from the other side. Make sure you have something set up to catch it, because it may come out of there at speed. If air by itself doesn't do it, wad up a bit of paper towel to act as a piston. Start small, but you eventually may end up with a relatively large ball of towel. Or you can use air to blow a string (pull line) through the pipe, then tie something of the right diameter to the string and use THAT to pull the socket out in a more controlled fashion. t worked as an electrician once.

Me too. I'm now going to go on just a bit of a tangent about 'special cars'- yup, it's a rant- The tii is a BMW 2002 with a rather interesting fuel delivery system. And slightly bigger brakes. It's not a Ferrari Dino, it's not even a Citroen SM. It's certainly not the gap between a 912 and a 911. The best feature of a tii is the front struts, which have big bearings and can take big brakes for the cost of a junkyard trip. Yes, the several motor improvements are nice, but there are other ways to get there and beyond. So yes, a few thousand extra for a tii makes good sense. IF you're comparing like cars. If you're into 'intangeables' then that's your thing- I'd much rather be a hoarder than be an emperor with a wardrobe full of new clothes- but if you're into cars for what they do, then the tii is a nice bump if you want a stock car. If you DON'T want a stock car, though, the tii's a dead end. So far as I know, no'one's offering cone tuning services, and that really limits what can be done with the thing. Which is kinda too bad, as a bit more cam really helps the M10. And it can take a bit more compression, too, especially with a fuel injection system that's more capable. Oh, yeah, the fuel injection- it's a bit of a disaster. There is some amazing precision in there- and then there's that folded sheet of plate. And no easy way to adjust it. It's like KF went 3/4 of the way, and then discovered that the budget was spent. Or BMW said 'we want a cheaper one' and KF complied. Yes, I'd love a nice stock tii, but I'd never use it. And, see above, I already have lots of things that I don't use often enough. Now, a scruffy 2002 with sidedrafts and tubs in back? That, I'd use a lot. t and about the ZHP E46...

ooo- triple- check that dimension on the spacing. Because what I THINK I see is an early E21 hub, 5er caliper, tii strut and '77 E21 rotor. Because what I think I'm looking at is an external rotor, and a tii dust cap. But check me, and here's how: Does the rotor come off the hub, with a 5mm allen, leaving the hub still attached to the strut? (that's the E21 (much better) way of doing business) What is the od of the dust cap when you remove it from the hub? (That'll tell which bearings you have, thus, which strut it is) If the spacing's 3" but with bigger bearings (that bulging dust cap)then it's possibly an NK strut (???) or with the smaller bearings, you'd have a standard 2002 strut with a different caliper on it? (not E21- those were 2 pot, not 4.) See how Vision's hub's almost touching the caliper? That's the 2002 style hub. I don't see that flange on your car. Pull those spacers off the front of the rotor and give us a full frontal shot of that thingus. heh t

That.^ It totally depends on what the distributor wants to see. t