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TobyB

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Everything posted by TobyB

  1. TobyB
    Sure, you could torque the head bolts- honestly, though, I wouldn't worry about it. Just run it, knowing it's a short timer. Lash won't matter much- a high ZDDP oil may mitigate the wear a bit. Or not, as I agree, that's galling. t
  2. TobyB
    Well, there's rubbing and then there's just a little touch now and then... I tried so hard to get those 0 offset Panasports to work, and it really was a matter of a fraction of a centimeter... t
  3. TobyB
    That looks about right- I had a bunch of zero offset Panasports in 13x6, when the race car had turbo flares on it, and zero offset would grind off the outside 5mm or so on the street car. So yes, 10mm inset seems like about the minimum to run those tires... t wishes his had been et 10, because then he'd still have them.
  4. TobyB
    yeah- oh, yuk. Get the Hardly Davidsunn 2400 zddp oil and run that until it dies... ...because that cam, I agree, is not ideal. My version would be saving up for a winter rebuild of another engine. Having watched others run some pretty horrible cams, though, you might get some fun out of it this summer. t
  5. TobyB
    Wrap a string around the perimeter, measure it, divide by 360, and then mark your string accordingly. I then wrap the string back around the pulley, and hit it with a chisel at the important points, and with a punch at the intermediate ones that I might be interested in later. Then use some silver Sharpie to make the lines and dots pop. Takes about 10 minutes, and making a pointer takes maybe half an hour, and then I just don't have to think about it any more. t
  6. TobyB
    I know why. Many do. The 32/36 is a progressive carb, where the 32mm bore opens first, and then the 36 follows on a bit later. the 38/38 was originally meant for a V6, with each bore feeding one bank, and it's synchronous, with both 38mm bores opening at the same time. So for the first 20 degrees of throttle shaft rotation, the 38 flows a LOT more air. Too much for a 2 liter, really, but having run one for a few years, it was still a blast. There is a 'sync link' out there for the 32/36 that opens the secondary 36mm barrel along with the 32. Never tried that. I DID find that lap times with a tired stock engine didn't much care if I was running a 32/36 or a 38/38- with a 6k rev limit and 8.2:1 compression, the 32/36 isn't a flow restriction. The 38/38 is more fun. t
  7. TobyB
    Very pretty. around here, the hemlock gets into the engine, the trunk seals, heater box, everything. The spruce, not so much of a problem. t pressure washes the dog these days.
  8. TobyB
    oh, snork. My lathe came from one of those... Issaquah, I think, since they shut them all down in the early 2000s around here. My parents had us in NYS when I was in school, and I just didn't appreciate the educational systems of the NE back then. We thought they were pretty poo- but then, I moved out here, and boy howdy, we had it good. Out here in the wild-wild-wikki-wikki-wild-wild-west, it's pretty hit or miss. Mostly miss. Don't buy a cheap welder- buy a used one off C-List or facebutt marketplace. Decent older 110v Migs show up pretty regularly for half of a new one, and usually come with a tank and regulator. And then yeah, buy an angle grinder, some gin, and I bet you could get one or more of us to come over and watch you set yourself on fire! heh t
  9. TobyB
    I'll say it baldly- it's tire losses. Transmissions don't heat much at all, and the diff loses maybe 2% at most*. Otherwise, it would melt. And they don't. I measure my RWHP by lap times. it's totally not scientific. If I want to try to see if a mechanical change has made a difference, I'll look more carefully at GPS data and sector times, and try to find laps where I came out onto the front straight at the same speed and direction, and overlay those. I have to say, 87.6% of the time, I don't have to do that- I can tell you that 'yep, it's pulling harder from 4k to 6k, but after that, it's falling on its face' or 'there's a bump at 5k, but it's odd' and most of the time it's just 'yeah' or 'no' and not all that often: 'imma look at the data, because it's different, but is the good better than the bad?' Same thing's true of suspension changes, too. Tires? I always look at the data. What feels good is often really, really bad. t *figuring that, if I make 165 hp, and the oil in the diff stabilizes at 200f with air temps at 100+f, there just CAN'T be that much heat coming out of that tiny little ring and pinion. It's an iron case. With not much surface area.
  10. TobyB
    Ugly as sin, but if the temperature stays down, who gives a hoot? I'm glad your testing protocols turned out to be a weiner. I suspect you could market yourself and get some dotcom venture capital thrown at you to boot. Or maybe tucked into the waist of your... boxers... hee. t may have to go that route one of these days, as his supply of E21 radiators is slowly but surely getting used up.
  11. TobyB
    It's going to take more pictures of the lobes to tell you much about the cam. But that one pic doesn't look... normal. Drive the car this summer, and keep an eye on the lash. I've taken apart motors with cams that looked good and rockers that were a mess, and I've made a cam with round lobes out of a bumpy one, and the rockers were fine. So just run it. And if things look questionable, yes, start scrounging up parts for a rebuild, a new motor, an LS swap, whatever tickles your fancy. Because these motors are, in fact, pretty tough IF you don't let them overheat much. t in for Cummins 4BT
  12. TobyB
    Hi! The DVD screen saver makes sense- sometimes, they get excited and start chasing it, which explains the 'instantly insane feline' behavior that will suddenly lead to the cat bouncing off all 4 walls and ending up in the kitchen sink... Gotta say, finding good shops for rust work like that hasn't been easy for a long time, but covid seems to have made things 4.87 times worse. The few shops that do work like this are booked out for years... often, your best bet is to tow 3-5 hours to get out of the area, and then you'll find something reasonable. Which is why I do my own stuff. That said, who would you trust to machine a 351 Windsor these days? All the 'usual' shops seem to have closed up. t
  13. TobyB
    Ahh, it should be far better than stock, then. Find the corresponding heater core, and run a 4 bar cap. You'll never boil over! heh t
  14. TobyB
    Two really big c-clamps can squeeze it back together. For later cars, where there's no flange to whallop, I've made a sleeve that grabs the threads of the stub axle and adapts to a slide hammer. And yes- the inner and outer races should be the same distance apart, and the inner races clamp against the sleeve. It's been a problem from day one- the hubs seem to be +-0.01mm, and they can be really tight, or just fine. E21's, E30s, E36s and E46s are the same way. Heating does work- you just have to HUSTLE once the thing's warm, as it heats that stub up pretty quickly. t
  15. TobyB
    Have you pressure tested that... thing? I tried welding up some intercooler tanks just for fun some decades back, and that's how my welds looked. And did they ever leak! I was so proud, it was like a sprinkler. t
  16. TobyB
    I rescued the pantograph engraver ("Hermes") at work when there was a purge. But in the computer age, computer driven engravers are certainly the way to go. If you like that look. I do, but nothing I own stays that static... t
  17. TobyB
    Given how little the transmission and diff heat up, I always figured most of the losses in the racey car were in the tires. And that THAT number was as hard to quantify as flies on a herd of cattle in Montana in August... I've never seen trans temps above water temp, and the small- case diff in good shape seems to sit around 100c most of the time. The surfaces of the tires, however, go from 50c to 125c 5 or 7 times a lap... so they're dumping significant amounts of heat. so, no, I guess I haven't really come up with a good percentage! heh t
  18. TobyB
    There's usually a number cast into the rotor- 5k or 1k. Marelli was still good when Bosch went... south... t
  19. TobyB
    I wonder if Elco also made electric turbochargers 'back in the day'... heh. Carbon. That 'harmless gas'... t
  20. TobyB
    lightweight version accelerates faster... externally balanced, of course. t
  21. TobyB
    As to heat range, the construction of the insulator around the center electrode is what varies- Heat Range | Basic Knowledge | SPARK PLUG | Automotive Service Parts and Accessories | DENSO Global Website WWW.DENSO.COM t
  22. TobyB
    If you're using a rubber bushing, it's totally fine. Given the way it's misshapen, I suspect it's been that way for 55 years, and I wouldn't worry much about it. Your sway bar tab looks pretty mangled, though- if you're powder coating, it might pay to make sure it's solid, as it'd suck to have it break off when you're installing the bar... t
  23. TobyB
    well, a spark plug only has one thread, so... And no, there shouldn't be much, if any, thread showing in the cylinder. Ideally, just the unthreaded nose. However, what you'll find is that the thread doesn't seal into the last few turns of its mating thread in the head all that well, so the discoloration you're seeing isn't that unusual. With a BP6ES, anyway. It's perfectly permissible to use shims under the base of the plug to get the protrusion exactly correct- but most of us just shim to keep the ground strap from shrouding the spark from the center of the combustion chamber. t
  24. TobyB
    t
  25. TobyB
    one for Naws and one for the fuel to use all that extra oxygen... sneaking more fuel in through the pump boss- that's... boss. "I know he's cheating because I'm cheating like an SOB and he's kicking my ass!!!" t
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