Anthony

Just go to a local automotive upholstery shop. Ask around with local rod shops etc to see who is recomend. I have a friend who had his recaros done locally very nice.

Just go to a local automotive upholstery shop. Ask around with local rod shops etc to see who is recomend. I have a friend who had his recaros done locally very nice.

I too use carbotech on the recomendation of Perry and I think they are fantastic!

Yep those PMO's are crazy nice. Much nicer then any other IDA style out there. A local racer with a 3.4 has them (50's IIRC) and I remember marveling at the sight glass when we were at the track last year. Our vintage group is considering "relaxing" the rules to allow some modern upgrades (within reason) and the first thing I would do is ditch my DCOEs - In a word I guess I am not a carb guy, I would rather use a Kfischer race system I have or even an alpina system. I miss the responsiveness and relative - set and forget of the injection systems - EFI is even better I feel like 1/2 of my time at the track is devoted to tweaking my webers. Pretty cool stuff. Just build some custom manifolds and cut a hole in the hood, and run long red trumpets out the top . 2 tripple carbs feeding the 4 cylinders should do it!

Hi Tom, It is really less for valve clearance (except for high lift long duraction cams and high compression motor) and more for ensuring that your cam is set up properly. Machined heads effect this to a varying degree. Furthermore an aluminum flywheel doesn't have the factory TDC marks on it. There is a lot of "dwell" time at TDC dependant on your crank stroke and rod length too. Just a good measure and practice for setting up cams on m10s and s14's

Don't know the specs. These are the sliders that engage the gear. These are just one of the issues. Everything in the box takes some abuse. The energizer bands, sliders, teeth etc. The one thing that was good in the box I rebuilt were the gears. If there is any damage to the gears I would trash the box. The syncros IIRC upon visual inspection were identical to Porsche 901 syncros (we ordered a set to compare) but the Dog Engagement teeth pictured were slightly off, can remember where. IIRC they were availble but were big money. Maybe Blunt can use his discount pricing to buy the remaining stock. I would check first before doing anything. IMO to rebuild the box right would take me at least a month to do right. We had to re-machine some parts, restore others and buy some new. The place to save is to buy the bearings from a large industrial supply like Motion Industries I think I ws able to source all of them with the exception of 2, and one with a shoulder. The second pic is absolutely dealer only. My contacts in the bearing world searched high and low and in their world the bearing didn't exist. The other one is availble but not not with the machined groove. Couldn't find it with a floating cage. Probably saved $200 off of BMW retail but I replaced every bearing. You really need to open your box carefully. and See what you have. Absoltuely you need the Porsche synchro tool which is available from Perfromance Products and a way to heat the pieces gently ( a hot plate or toaster oven) there is no need to bang anything ever. I have the old ones Dog Teeth if you want? and I have about 5 new bearings (I bought 3 of each when I found the cross-over numbers) All SKF or FAG.

There are dog teeth that fit on the syncho, they are always knocked off and broken on every box I have seen (3 now). I can't remember but I think they are NLA. It is best to source a parts box before you open one up. I would open up the ETK, print off the page and send the PNs to your local deal and see what is availble. I rebuilt mine a few years back.

You will also need a piston stop to determine the TDC (flywheel can be inaccurate). There are plenty of models on the market but I chose to make one. Pretty easy, pictured here You will also need a degree wheel, a pointer (piece of wire should suffice) and your cam specs or cam card so you can accurately set-up the cam. You will also need a dial indicator and a magnetic base. Because the 02 head is aluminum you will either need to build a custom base for the dial indicator or build a plate which sits atop the head (this is what I did). You will have to know what you are measuring be it valve lift (at lobe) or valve lift at rocker to account for the ratio. There are lots of right ups on the net and different methods of doing this.

If you mean an Anglia then that would be something to see. Any pics. I have a friend who is restoring one to vintage race and I bet he would get a kick out of that.

No he quotes BIG valves 48/39mm and the picture in question is a full hemi head and what appear to be some BIG 50MM or 55 MM intakes. To make power from this head you will need full hemi pistons ala Mahle/Alpina and a big schrick cam. He is wrong about the 292 but the head appears to the real deal. Race only.

Let me preface this by saying I love our new house. It is only 5 blocks from our old house but the neighborhood is a lot nicer - even though sometimes the residents are a bit too fussy and aloof. That being said I live 10 houses from a fellow club racer and instructor with an e30 m3 and a dream garage, 4 houses from a guy with a hoist complete with a Ac Schnitzer 750il and about 3 or 4 Vintage Vespas and about 20 houses from this cool Rockabilly Couple with a 61 lincoln with suicide doors, a '59 thunderbird wagon and now a 32 ford "rat rod" roadster in progress. So now it is Sunday and we are unloading #96 off of the trailer and into the garage and this older couple stops by in their Toyota Camry. At first I thought they were stopping to complain about the big trailer but instead they asked if we were Ice Racing the car? Told them no heat and no wipers makes for a cold ice racer. We start talking some more about racing and he tells me he is an old road and ice racer from way back and asked me if I need some help prepping my race car he would love to help. He then tells me that he lives about 1 block away up the loop and has and used to have a Sabel sports racer with a Porsche 1600 twin cam (which he kept). I asked him about the Porsche twin cam and told him that it is quite a valuable motor and he said "I know" I think I will sell it when my grandkid goes to university!. Very cool.

Hi Toby, Do you use the stock s14 jet or do you ream it out? Anthony

Rob T @ 2002 Haus has a nice looking one on his site. I ended up having a local fabricator build mine using stainless. He even built the muffler from scratch to my spec and resonance. Pretty cool stuff

Hi Toby, My engine makes nearly 150 at the wheel on a mustang dyno and with a brand new 228 flywheel , tii pressure plate and clutch it would not hold on hard launches and I could see it creep at 5000 rpms if there if there was load on the motor like puching hard up a hill. Put the e30 m3 in and it is fine. For the race car I am running the 215 as well but need to find a stronger pp and clutch combo any ideas? Anthony

You should really set it up on a chassis dyno to see what you actually get. Dyno numbers aside the fact the published number was 175 means very little in my book. Find yourself a shop with a Mustang chassis dyno and spend 1 hour tuning. I would be very interested to see how your fuel delivery is and if any gains could be made by further tweaking the delivery. I have no idea of the flywheel numbers on my motor would be as I cannot accurate extrapolate the chassis dyno figures to flywheel. It would be good to know how a similar motor produced. I have my dyno sheet but would need to scan it. I think he also gave me a log file of RPM and torque numbers which I could also send. Cheers,

All I can say is I told you so The stock 228mm tii clutch didn't work in my stroked car either. There are a lot more options with a 228 mm car as you can go e30, e30 m3 etc.

Please see the thread on the skidmark message board. I was forwarded an email from a race car fabricator who mentioned the following: " I have a new set of the billet axles here and a new set of stock BMW axles here along with a used hub that is in good condition. The hub has a sloppy fit on the new billet axles as compared to a tight fit on the BMW axle. I also noted that the splines on the billet axle that broke showed signs of wear while the hub splines still looked good. I can forward a photo of the spline wear if it would help. " To the best of knowledge there have been at least 3 failures that I know of. It may have been an issue with the original batch? I am having a new set made right now from the manufacturer but am hesitant to use them in my race car. Probably fine for a street car. http://www.skidmarkracing.net/messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=63

FYI, I have a set of billet axles and there have been quite a bit of failures on race cars and some conflicting reports on the fitting of them.

Does anyone remember or have a link or issue number for the bimmer mag article on upgrading your stub axles to the turbo spec? Anthony

Good luck finding a prefectly original car with perfect body and "flawless" paint for $10k

McMaster Carr for the short acorn style in chrome finish. The new acorn style from BMW are the later style longer with integrated washer.

Absolutely you can use the m3 crank for some additional low end grunt and to some extent a stroked motor likes a longer duration cam (within reason) My stroked car runs a 304 and sometimes I wish I had gone with a 316 as sometimes I feel the car is far too streetable for what I use it for. If you are using 11:1 pistons then make sure you design or use a piston with good quench, to get an 11:1 piston to work well, particularly on the street you will need to re-design the CC, otherwise you will end up with a huge dome and equally huge valve reliefs and much detonation. For comparison I run 10.8:1 and have never had a problem with any type of detonation or pre-ignition. I wouldn't bother with a kife edged crank for the street, I would spend my money in the head instead. To make use of the 84mm crank or even an 80mm crank you will need to lengthen the rod and the s14 rod is a good place to start at ~144mm. Getting a 40mm exhaust valve may be pretty tough with your stock seats. Even 39mms get pretty tight as the margin is very small (when you fit the valve properly. Also presumably if you are using a big intake valve say 47mm or larger you will most definately have issues with valve interference on overlap, depending on the lift of the cam. The std, 47/39 big valve combo already is pretty tight and in some cases you need to back cut the faces of the valves to get them to operate safely. Have fun, sounds great

Carl Nelson at La Jolla has them for 12 bucks each.

My car made 145hp@6400 and 131lbft @ 5200 on a mustang chassis dyno. For comparison a conforti chipped e30 m3 made 157 at 7000.