Anthony

My local machine shop cuts them down and uses a ford seal (4litre I think) and on my race heads it seems towork great for a dual spring set-up.

I painted the stripes first because I wanted them under the clear and also it was easier to paint the stripes first as I did as opposed to trying to mask the whole car...the advice I got was the less you have to mask the better. This way by the time I painted the blue the stripes were finished. Actually turned out really good. Anthony

Hi Don, I am going to bring both 2002's to the European Classic show (If I can get them togther together in time. I only have a few days to get 2 cars togther when I get back from europe....sadly I will leave the monster e30 at home. No spare elipsoid lights. sorry. Will you be at VOTP this year? Should be a good one. A

Lots of work led up to this. The fibreglass needed a lot of repair, including cutting out the rear quarter (after a lotus hit me last year) repairing and re-glassing it back in place. Went back and forth a few times but settled on a very simple motorsports striped theme like the ex Vasek Polak now BMWNA car. it is base clear, the stripes were shot first (red, then masked, purpole, then maked blue) I was extremely pleased with how it turned out especially considering that it was my first time (although I did help on the restoration of my Inka car).

Be careful with the diamond race wheels. There is an embossing on the mounting flange of the wheel. The issue is that this embossed ring is a larger diameter than 2002 hubs, meaning you end up flexing the wheel center in a bad way when you torgue the lugs. That was my recollection when I looked at buying a set of used ones.

I contacted Lee about making some windshield banners a week or two ago. Within the last 2 weeks he managed to put together a deal to supply a few other FAQ'ers and yesterday I received my banners. Lee delivered on everything as promissed and his turn around was unreal! This guy is as good as they come and other vendors should take note! Anthony

I am looking for something that will bolt into the factory bumper bracket location? Anthony anaphe@gmail.com

συγχαρητήρια και καλή τύχη. Πολύ όμορφο παιδί.

anthony what is a good quench cc number. on my chevy 420 sbc or all sbc's for that matter its 36-43 cc roughly. good info to give my engine builder. and on your motor is your piston in the hole at tdc or has the block been decked to bring it up to "zero"? I don't know much about SBC but I presume it is a wedge CC? You need to do some research and take a look at the pistons (piston to wall clearance). Typically 0.060" is the standard starting number people use but it depends on the piston, headgasket, CC design etc. There should be lots of information out there on quench regarding SBCs. I wouldn't advise anything without doing thorough research first. Well it is not that simple. The piston to deck height is basically negative 0.006, IIRC I have to check my notes. The pistons and the CC's were machined together and everything was custom so I did not need to deck the block. The compressed head gasket measured out to 0.056 or 0.055 which gave me a ~0.050". It works really well. Regards, A

anthony what is a good quench cc number. on my chevy 420 sbc or all sbc's for that matter its 36-43 cc roughly. good info to give my engine builder. and on your motor is your piston in the hole at tdc or has the block been decked to bring it up to "zero"? I don't know much about SBC but I presume it is a wedge CC? You need to do some research and take a look at the pistons (piston to wall clearance). Typically 0.060" is the standard starting number people use but it depends on the piston, headgasket, CC design etc. There should be lots of information out there on quench regarding SBCs. I wouldn't advise anything without doing thorough research first. Well it is not that simple. The piston to deck height is basically negative 0.006, IIRC I have to check my notes. The pistons and the CC's were machined together and everything was custom so I did not need to deck the block. The compressed head gasket measured out to 0.056 or 0.055 which gave me a ~0.050". It works really well. Regards, A

I am no expert but here is my take on things. Yeah the CC design is a tough question to answer. Depends a lot on what you are using it for and what type of motor it will be as well as your component selection like cams. Hemi's can be configured to flow very well. I believe pentroofs have grown in popularity as DOHC motors have become prevalent as they allow for the easiest rocker arm/lifter geometry. Most people are not in a situation to design and machine their own hemi chambers and pistons so they are stuck with the factory set-up. Problem with a stock chamber is that as you make the dome in the piston bigger (to increase compression ratio) you have to make the corresponding valve pockets deeper to accommodate the rocker lift of your cam. Eventually (depending on head design) you will reach the limit in practical terms as the increase in dome will be cancelled out by the increase in negative of the piston cuts. You also have a head that may or may not flow well as a dome is introduced in the centre of the CC which can often lead to shrouded areas and even create pockets for air and fuel to get orphaned. This can lead to knocking and pinging. Just as important (or more) as the CC design is the concept of squish or quench to achieve good turbulence. The idea is to squeeze all of the mixture of the out-lying areas into the central combustion area (ideally towards the exhaust valve). This increases turbulence, improves efficiency and reduces detonation by getting rid of pockets of lean mixture. On my street motor I run a hemi piston (skidmark) with a static ratio of 10.8:1. I run a very tight quench and the piston was designed with this in mind (quench band) Even at that ratio I run 91or 92 octane and have even run 87 in a pinch. I have never heard or experienced any types of detonation or pre-ignition. I have a picture some where of the head off and the entire perimeter of the piston is shiny like a new nickel and the centre of the piston is brownish. Basically the picture clearly shows that the entire combustion process occurs right in the centre of the CC. The other thing is that I am able to run a pretty conservative advance and make my max power. On the dyno I made max power and torque at 32 degrees and the car is very happy. Basically at 10:1 you may not see the benefits of re-designing the CC (on a cost basis) but if you plan to go higher and have a more specialized task in mind for the motor there are gains in power and efficiency to be had. Don't think that answered your question but... Hopefully JohnA will add some thoughts when he has some time as I am sure he can add some more science to the discussion.

On that note I wonder how many racers are running a very skinny rear sway bar or no sway at all. I will be experimenting with no rear bar this weekend and will see if it will help cure my wheel lift issue.

To the best of my knowledge there are no issues with mounts etc. There are some differences and they are very minor. As an example the e21 and e30 oil pumps don't tie into the 3rd main journal cap so you will need longer bolts (10.9 grade) and the bracket for the 2002 pump to brace to.

For installation the easiest and cleanest way I have found is to take 2 pieces of plywood or MDF piece between the 2 (rear main seal or front timing cover) and use a bench top vice to press in seal, takes 10 seconds no risk of damaging piece. I think it is a better solution then pounding. As for removal if you are doing in situ then a seal puller is probably the easiest.

Stain looks great if the wood underneath is nice. Redwood is particularly nice. It may not work of you are mixing woods though - but it would be a shame to paint redwood. Maybe you can do both....

So in putting together a new motor I thought I would share some of the cheap tools (some home made) that make my life easier. #1 cheap flywheel lock by EMPI (for VW) $6.50 canadian. Go out and buy one of these they fit perfectly with a long bolt. I use the lower tranny bolt hole (5 o'clock when looking at flywheel) #2 Piston stop (homemade) for determining TDC in conjunction with degree wheel a must have for non stock flywheels (ie aluminum) and cams and for degreeing motor. Basically you bring up the piston (with head off) until it contacts the stop and take a reading on your degree wheel, then you go in the opposite direction and until contact and read wheel again, you divide the difference by 2 essentially finding the centre point between the 2 readings and this will give you the exact centre of TDC and from there you have a good starting point. All motors have some dwell at TDC and this is the only way I know if to account for the dwell #3 Cam Tool (home made but now available from 2002 haus and others), mine is ugly but it works great.

The Jist? He was a guest instructor for this years course. Last year we had the Chief instructor for the PCA. He seemed like a pretty good guy for sure. A

Had an opportunity to take an instructor clinic with Darren Young (Chief Driving Instructor BMW CC Los Angeles) What a character - very cool guy and was definately a 2002 jock. Had some great stories and great love for the 02's. Anthony

Chain tensioner 11311262273, had an onvoice from my dealer on hand

You could start by replacing everything in your ignition circuit or start with the basics. I had a very similar issue (would only manifest on a warm car) and it has always been grounds. Clean and tighten every ground. A

check the archives search for "stroker motor" lots of information written no time to re-write it all. Sounds like fun.

Hi Michael, Looking good. All original low mile cars have just a hint of "pebbling", the cars were never wet sanded and buffed to a mirror but the paint was rich and deep. You note about spraying is very correct. When the inka car was painted the painter who is very good sprayed a couple of test pieces to the point where they would run. He then sprayed the car the same way...right to the point of running without actually doing it. To this day (2 years later) the car has only had one hand wax and never had the final coat sanded or polished!

You should look into Soda blasting. Sand can be too abrasive soda is much easier on the metal.

You can take a stock set of DCOE manifolds and have them milled on an angle to compensate for the cant of the motor. To do it right you need to add material (TIG) and then do it. Also check out the SDSEFI site that RaceSki reccomended.

Bob I can't remember how much meat is there but you could use it for your accusump discharge. Anthony