engine and drivetrain Can't get my transmission out

[Fishhead]

1974 , 4 speed.

I followed the directions on my Chilton manual to replace the clutch assembly. The transmission is loose and wants to come out, but there doesnt seem to be enough clearance between the firewall and engine for the trans to come out. If I could get it back another 3/8 inch, the pilot shaft of the trans would then clear the fingers of the pressure plate and it would come out. I've tried for an hour and a half and its still stuck in limbo and wont come out.

What do I need to do to get this thing out?

TIA,

Fishhead

[scoyote]

Did you get the flywheel inspection cover off?? Maybe an oversight that will definitely hang things up. Other than that you may have to drop your subframe a tad to clear the top housing bolts?--scoyote

[FB73tii]

Yes, it can be a pain. If you have not already, loosen the motor mounts a bit and use a small block of wood to wedge the motor at an angle (up/down/sideways) to provide clearance. I just did this a few months ago and ended up pulling out the passenger-side motor mount to drop the engine a bit. I do have an engine crane to assist. Take car not to crunch the distributor against the firewall or the fan into the radiator. Others may have more elegant methods...

Best of luck, Fred '74tii

[Fishhead]

Yes, the Insp cover is off. I followed the directions to a "T" in the Chilton manual, but my experience with Chilton manuals (with motorcycles) is that they are generally vague and sometmes omit processes that would help out alot.

The only thing that is "in the way" is the lack of space between the engine and the fire wall.

[john_a]

I've not seen the Chilton instructions in a long time, so I don't remember what they include. But once the trans mount & its crossmember are removed, the engine/trans combo should tip tail down, leaving more than enough room to let the top of the bell clear the firewall/top of tunnel on the way out.

IIRC, the limits of travel for this tilting of the powertrain are from the center drag link (steering linkage) & then the distributor hitting the firewall.

For extra clearance at the center drag link, crank the steering all the way to the left (or was it the right? see for yourself which is better.) Either direction will cause the center link to drop lower, providing more clearance for the trans bell housing. This really helps when you are struggling to put it back in.

Be mindful of the distributor hitting the firewall, have a wood block ready to keep the engine from tipping too far, or consider removing the distributor if that is less trouble. I've never had to do that, in fact I've usually used jacks & wood blocks to maintain the engine tilted position. Especially when the trans is finally separated and the engine suddenly wants to tip forward.

Bottom line is there should be room for the trans to come out without dropping the subframe or disconnecting the steering linkages, just find the right angle to tilt the engine back & you're golden.

[Marty]

Turn the wheels all the way left or right and the tie rod will drop down a little that should give you the clearance you need, I would also remove the distributor cap and rotor so they don't get damaged against the firewall.

[TobyB]

I usually take the dizzy out...

t

[TJs692002]

Bottom line is there should be room for the trans to come out without dropping the subframe or disconnecting the steering linkages, just find the right angle to tilt the engine back & you're golden.

Use a jack and a block of wood to SLIGHTLY tilt the front of the motor up and the trans should just fall right out. When the trans is removed, try not to change anything or even move the car because putting the tranny back in will not be as easy because you are now fighting against gravity. However, once it is in you wont have to go to the gym that day to do your bench press exercises!! )

Good Luck!

[Fishhead]

Thanks for the help and tips,

Removed the dist. and jacked up the front of the motor and it came out easily. At first, the dist. was resting against the A/C lines keeping the engine from tilting enough to gain the needed clearance.

I went to replace the leaky front trans seal and called the Napa up the street and they had one in stock. I pulled out the old seal and took it up and they hand me a 47/30/8 seal and it is not a 48/30/10 and of course, they didnt have the correct seal.

So I had to improvise. I have a 45/30/7 seal (Engine seal for a Honda CB 750, I have motorcycle parts out the wazoo) and I made up a seal adaptor/spacer to get this seal to work for the trans seal. Should be fine.

My shifter was also missing the little plastic "things" that take up the slack between the shifter fork and shifter pin (below the "ball" and held on with an allen screw) so I made up a set of "things" to get rid of the slack that was there. I made them out of 6061 aluminum (probably isnt the best material for this but will work) and pressed them into the fork and got rid of all the slack that was there.

I had to make a pilot tool for centering the disc also.

All in all it went together fine. I'm working on the floor and my back hurts a bit from doing the "flopping fish" to get in and out from under the car, but it was almost "fun". Boy, that top starter bolt/nut was fun to replace.

Thanks again for the tips,

Fishhead

[BillWilliams]

next time

Use a CAP head bolt for that upper starter bolt and it makes life simple.