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Marty

Solex
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Everything posted by Marty

  1. I think Boeing will have a bunch of battery on the surplus market soon.
  2. Ok the hose your hooked up to is the fuel return line it needs to be pluged up as it is no longer used, the hose to the canister goes to the firewall directly under where the fuel line comes out,
  3. I like to run the threaded flange with the longer bolts for the unthreaded flange locktited and toruqed to spec and then add the nyloc nuts to the backside as a lock nut, no way will these come undone untill you do it.
  4. Call it what you ever floats your boat, but when it's time to sell call it what it is, and you'll be fine.
  5. Uhh Brian's not the type to be calling the police, atleast untill he's done defending his home, be careful and try to worksome thing out so he knows whats going on. It a shame that such a nice guy is letting his personal demond drive his life in such a distructive direction.
  6. Go to www.racetep.com and enter their site and find the carb drawings they have a great exploded view of the 40's, the parts you need to record the sizes of, for starters, are going to be numbers 11 air corector jet 13 emulsion tube 15 main jet 16 idle jet 17 aux venturi and number 22 main venturi, report what sizes these are please. I kinda think you have something pretty simple assembled wrong like the aux venturis in backwards.
  7. It sounds like something is off with your primary set up. What are you running for chokes? You might as well list all the jets ect too. The more info the faster the fix.
  8. For those who have the three leg stand go to Home Depot and get a 2 foot section of 2x2 steel tube and 2 2x5" ubolts, then bolt the tube across the bottom of the front leg just behind the wheel, then if the stand starts to tip it can only go a inch or so before the cross bar hits the floor and stops the tipping
  9. I think CD andBill ought to put a clamp on the fuel return line and report back that the car is running lean, I know when the fuel return on my74 TIi was pluged the thing was running in the tear gas rich mode. I mean do you think the Germans put a fuel return line in for no reason?
  10. you might want to try F9 or F16 tubes the tubes you are running mainly show up for VW's
  11. Both Tii and automatics share a differant petal than carbed 2002, that will fix your problem
  12. It cracks just above the bend it makes around the steering box it starts on the flanges. Just about any reinforcement to this area will do I've seen them reinforced on the inside of the u and on the outside never seen one that was reinforced crack again. Just remember not to block the steering box or motor mount area.
  13. The seatbelt override relay is still part of the 74's system untill its removed, back in the old day it was bypassed by unpluging the seat bottom sensor this just fooled the car into thinking no one was in the seat and it would close the over ride, not a very smart system, anyway the relay has been working now for 38 years and has probably died. Its a box around the size of a pack of cigs under the dash just to the right of the steering shaft try jumping the 2 larger wires togeather and your car should start.
  14. Check to see if the rocker bushings seized to the shaft durring you low oil pressure event, maybe the bushings seized to the shaft and the rocker arm was rotating on the bushing wearing the soft aluminium untill it let go at your 6k shift.
  15. I would think that if you planned ahead instead of just grabing the cut off wheel and start making sparks while gigeling like a fool like the rest of us did you could drill out the spot welds the hold the radiator support and front tray and remove it in one piece and put it aside so that it could be reinstalled if you went back to the m10.
  16. I'm sure that the bumper mounts would hold the car but you'll be suporting the weight at the very ends and I think this would put added stress on the uni body when you start cutting out the floor and rails. when I built my rotisserie I went with the suspertion point pick up just to be sure.
  17. It's real easy to mesure your voltage drop while starting your car with a multi-meter, just run a 12 to 16 gauge wire from the battery pos. post to the hot side of the solinoid with your metercut into this wire and set to volts dc and also set to record. crank your car over and the reading on the meter will be your voltage drop.
  18. Marty

    test

    vvvvvv crs-publish.pdf
  19. Marty

    What the heck?

    Yes it was, but how many times do you get to use that line in the proper context?
  20. Marty

    What the heck?

    "All right, Who's the U-Boat comander?" Porsche tech to Tom Cruise in Risky Business 1983.
  21. 74's were the only year BMW fitted with a seat belt interlock, I would check to see if the clicking you hear is coming from a large relay under the dash by the steering shaft if so take the 2 large wires and try jumping them together. Most people just unhooked the weight sensor wires under the seat to fool the system this works fine but leaves the relay active and they fail after 30 years or so.
  22. Hold on, while a presure regulator should be fitted the fact that he has to hold the choke closed to get it to idle pretty much rules out a flooding condition (choke closed = less airmore fuel) you might want to look for a vaccume leak around the carb or manifold.
  23. Thats a M30 engine, from the 73 date stamp and the carbs it's probably from a Bavaria.
  24. So is your 02 a 1974 vintage? if so it sounds like your seatbelt interlock relay is kaput and needs to be bypassed.
  25. I learned this from a old time hot rodder, get a pound of bright (non galvinised) 16 penny nails and stick them thru the doors from the back side holding the point put in a couple of tack welds, then cut the shaft from the head with a cut off wheel or pair of nippers, finish the weld and grind flush and your done. It just about takes more time to discribe than to do.
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